Crap....
Well, this is not ideal
- Thread starter GhenghisKen
- Start date
ST Gui
240Robert
IF you have some pointed tweezers like those used with electronic repair it's a piece of cake. Dental picks also work.
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2005
- Messages
- 329
- Location
- Woodstock, New Brunswick, Canada.
- Bike
- '24Roadmaster, 16VFR
I generally carry a pair of tweezers for those times when I've pushed the ear plug in a bit too far! Perfect for this little dilemma...
ST Gui
240Robert
That happens more than you'd think with the factory keys. They're made of soft pot metal. Replacement keys should be the ILCO or similar brand. They're much stronger.
Then you have to figure out why it broke. Key damaged? Is the cap jammed? Ect.
Then you have to figure out why it broke. Key damaged? Is the cap jammed? Ect.
Glue gun and a paper clip might work to get it out. 
Right from day 1, I hold down the gas cap when I turn my key
OP
OP
Will spend time today unf&*king this, would rather be going on the RTE. Need the bike for work tomorrow.
Ditch that locking cap and get one of these. The Oberon gas caps screw in and you will never be locked out. I bought one used here (have not seen another up for sale in years) but I loved mine after reading about someone else who had opening-the-gas-cap problems.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
If that is the original Honda key I don't know if they are magnetic because I don't use one but if you have one of those really strong rare earth magnets give it a try. I once removed a piece of broken key that way, it just sucked it right out. I doubt that this is the case most often but it costs nothing to try and who knows, you might get lucky.
ST Gui
240Robert
They're not. Nor are the ILCO blanks though they're much stronger than the OE. They don't resist corrosion as well but that shouldn't be an issue for most of us.
ST Gui
240Robert
Hm. Hadn't thought of that. Reduces drag on the locking dogs I'd presume. That translates to less somewhat less torque on the key. I think it unnecessary for the studly ILCO blank but couldn't hurt.
Left Hand Free.
mello dude
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
Thanks for the link on that! Cool!
Crap....
Had that happen to me, at a gas pump of course.
Fortunately I was less than a mile from home so I could push the bike to a parking spot that didn't block the pumps, walk home, grab my hex key set, drive back to the station, remove the filler cover (only the screws at 12, 5, and 7:00 actually matter- the other four are dummies for symmetry and appearance), bring it home, and extract the broken stump. I think a combination of dental picks and needle nose pliers were involved.
After I had the mechanism cleared I cleaned it a bit and lightly re-lubed it, madr soure it operated smoothly once again, then walked back to the station, reinstalled the cap, and rode home.
In my case it was an ILCO duplicate- I never, ever, used the original factory key to operate the bike, only as the master template for having ILCO spares cut.
No help removing the busted key (I'd try 2 knife points) but I must point out, it works both ways to ease the drag of the latching mechanism.
Always push it down.
Always push it down.
I have one Oberon Fuel Cap in my 919. It is great.
https://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/fuel-cap-kits
ST Gui
240Robert
I do not think it means what you think it means.
To me it reads PUSH to LOCK. To support your chosen practice wouldn't it read PUSH UNLOCK? It's not noted in my owner's manual.
OP
OP
All sorted. Took some jiggery pokery with a small needle nose set I have for electronics work, and much cursing. I have a few backup sets so I'll switch to using an ILCO set as of now.
When properly serviced, pushing on the cap lets the mechanism (and inserted key) self rotate to the locked position via the internal spring so the key can be removed.
I do not think it means what you think it means.
PUSH to LOCK
When it stops doing that, it's time for a cleaning/lube.
An old time locksmith once told me never to lube locks with a liquid like oil - it holds dust and will clog up the works. He said to only use a solvent (acetone) to wash away the old dirt and whatever someone else sprayed in there and then dust it w/ powdered graphite when dry. My auto mechanic (now retired and a friend) always sprayed car locks with a heavy oily lube. But car locks are different. Take your pick. I used the graphite on ALL my locks. Except my ST's gas cap - I unscrewed that.
