Front End Shake

I am just wearing out my third front STorm, and right at the end it has begun the infamous head shake. It is horribly cupped, I can't give it up until the air is sticking out.

I would not put an Avon tire on my wheel barrow, even if it was free.
 
Yes Byron, you understand perfectly. I have a .040" shim in this swingarm. I replaced the original swingarm two years ago because it was getting rusty. I had a .030" shim in it. To date I have only checked 4 swingarms but they were each off a significant amount and no two were alike.

So do you have to have the swing arm off the bike to check or can it be checked while on the bike? I am just wondering how you know they are off and need a shim.
 
My 93 had this problem. Nothing really helped until I changed from bias ply tires to radials. I have went through a set of Bridgestone BT-020's and now have a set of BT-021's. No head shake at all.

Larry
 
So do you have to have the swing arm off the bike to check or can it be checked while on the bike? I am just wondering how you know they are off and need a shim.
I used a dial indicator. It can be done on or off the bike.
 

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My 93 had this problem. Nothing really helped until I changed from bias ply tires to radials. I have went through a set of Bridgestone BT-020's and now have a set of BT-021's. No head shake at all.

Larry
Before aligning the rear wheel, mine had headshake to some degree with over 15 different front tires of various makes. All except the OEM Dunlops were radials.

A side note: I've just mounted the 58th & 59th tires on this bike. No wonder the rims are looking a bit raggedy. LOL
 
I had to shim the final drive. This coincidently fixed 4 problems. Less wear on splines/drive dampers, cured a pull to the right, eliminated decel head shake and increased tire mileage. Got 14k miles from the last set of RoadTecs. Here are a couple of photos:

http://homepage.mac.com/robertparker/PhotoAlbum30.html

hawkeyeST,

Do you have a better picture showing where the magnetic base is attached? I'm assuming you rotated the indicator around the axle to find the offset, or am I missing something?

If you could expand on your procedure, I'd appreciate it.

Carl
 
hawkeyeST,

Do you have a better picture showing where the magnetic base is attached? I'm assuming you rotated the indicator around the axle to find the offset, or am I missing something?

If you could expand on your procedure, I'd appreciate it.

Carl
You assume correctly. The mag base is attached to the exposed portion of the driven gear. Sorry no more photos.

What kind of tubes do you bend? I've fabbed a few (thousand) hydraulic lines in another life. :)
 
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I used a dial indicator. It can be done on or off the bike.

Yeah I saw your photo before but what are you measuring. I assume the issue is that the front and rear wheels are not totally alligned and the shim brings it so that they are centered on each other. Or am I wrong with what I think you are doing with the shims?
 
Yeah I saw your photo before but what are you measuring. I assume the issue is that the front and rear wheels are not totally alligned and the shim brings it so that they are centered on each other. Or am I wrong with what I think you are doing with the shims?

I'm measuring the alignment of the final drive centerline to the axle hole in the left side of the swingarm. My primary concern was spline and hub wear. I have not verified that this improves the wheel alignment, but it doesn't seem to hurt. I can ride "hands off" now, which was difficult before and headshake is gone.

If you don't have excessive spline wear or handling problems, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
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I'm measuring the alignment of the final drive centerline to the axle hole in the left side of the swingarm. My primary concern was spline and hub wear. I have not verified that this improves the wheel alignment, but it doesn't seem to hurt. I can ride "hands off" now, which was difficult before and headshake is gone.

If you don't have excessive spline wear or handling problems, I wouldn't worry about it.

My spline wear seems fine. I have about 60K miles on the bike now. Like the original poster of this thread I only have head shake at 40-45 MPH for me it is only while coasting through that speed. I think it is the tires but there is some slop in the front wheel bearings that I am in the process of replacing right now.
 
Unbelievable!:hat1:

As others have said, the ST1100 should not have the head shake so you don't have to live with it! Mine doesn't do this @ all and has 47K on the clock. New Storms too!! I did need to but new head bearings in her when I bought her because they were dry and going away! I installed the tapered ones. I can't give a comparison between the tapered & roller bearings because the original roller bearings were just plain on their way out!!! The ideal of aligning the rear axle in the swing arm is fantastic! Next time mine is apart, I'll be looking at that too! Thanks for the info!
 
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