Turn signals and flashers dead - calling all electricians
- Thread starter Sadlsor
- Start date
Don't keep the rest of us in the dark. Report back here once you and @Sadlsor figure this out.
OP
OP
Tried jumpering the female relay connector again with the key / power on.
There's an L and a B position molded into the relay body, which correspond to the 2 pins in the wiring harness, what I call the "female" side of the relay.
Confirmed 12v to the B wire.
I don't remember what Larry said that goes to.
Larry said the L side goes to the turn signal switch. On that side, I can't tell from the relay position, because the numbers on my meter are all over the place.
The gray wire of the three wires at the turn signal switch (other two are orange, and light blue) is beneath a little plate in the switch housing, which i will not investigate now, since it's about to be dark.
My luck would have me drop one on the driveway, losing it forever... no thanks.
I do have power up at the turn signal, where it goes to the bulb (photo above, with test light)... but we already know there is power there, because the amber running lights come on.
They just don't turn on the actual turn signals.
Time to wrap it up for the night, and come back to it later.
Let middle cowl, seats, side cases, and button up the instrument pod before the lights go out.
More later... guaranteed.
There's an L and a B position molded into the relay body, which correspond to the 2 pins in the wiring harness, what I call the "female" side of the relay.
Confirmed 12v to the B wire.
I don't remember what Larry said that goes to.
Larry said the L side goes to the turn signal switch. On that side, I can't tell from the relay position, because the numbers on my meter are all over the place.
The gray wire of the three wires at the turn signal switch (other two are orange, and light blue) is beneath a little plate in the switch housing, which i will not investigate now, since it's about to be dark.
My luck would have me drop one on the driveway, losing it forever... no thanks.
I do have power up at the turn signal, where it goes to the bulb (photo above, with test light)... but we already know there is power there, because the amber running lights come on.
They just don't turn on the actual turn signals.
Time to wrap it up for the night, and come back to it later.
Let middle cowl, seats, side cases, and button up the instrument pod before the lights go out.
More later... guaranteed.
So far, we determined there is power at the flasher socket B terminal, and the jumper to the L terminal should be carrying it to the signal switch.
However, we still haven't gotten anything from any signal light yet. The switch could be bad.
However, we still haven't gotten anything from any signal light yet. The switch could be bad.
OP
OP
I'll trace the Service Manual wiring diagram before my next attempt.
There's power to the running lights, but there should also be a second powered wire to the flasher, unless the same wire is powered by the switch itself.
The wiring diagram.... with all its parallel, dizzying, tiny lines, will answer that.
Where did I put my readers...
That's all for today.
Thanks to all for your input, and to the old guy in Virginia for talking me through steps on the phone.
It's all our back together, for the ride to work in the morning.
There's power to the running lights, but there should also be a second powered wire to the flasher, unless the same wire is powered by the switch itself.
The wiring diagram.... with all its parallel, dizzying, tiny lines, will answer that.
Where did I put my readers...
That's all for today.
Thanks to all for your input, and to the old guy in Virginia for talking me through steps on the phone.
It's all our back together, for the ride to work in the morning.
Possible the trailer harness wired in series?
You mentioned disconnecting a battery positive and ground for testing.
There should be brake and turn signal wiring too.
Try connecting trailer up and see if that completes the circuit.
You mentioned disconnecting a battery positive and ground for testing.
There should be brake and turn signal wiring too.
Try connecting trailer up and see if that completes the circuit.
OP
OP
The trailer isolation harness is simply connected direct to battery, no "fuse box" (although the trailer wiring IS separately fused.)
I merely detached the positive and negative leads to ensure the trailer wiring had no impact on the bike's turn signals.
It does not affect turn signal behavior, as evidenced by no change once I disconnected the trailer from the battery.
The trailer turn signals quit working at the same time as they quit working on my ST1300, about a year after I wired the trailer.
So the signals on the bike and on the trailer worked for about a year after I added the trailer.
So I'm thinking the trailer lights will work once again, after I get them to work on the .motorcycle.
I merely detached the positive and negative leads to ensure the trailer wiring had no impact on the bike's turn signals.
It does not affect turn signal behavior, as evidenced by no change once I disconnected the trailer from the battery.
The trailer turn signals quit working at the same time as they quit working on my ST1300, about a year after I wired the trailer.
So the signals on the bike and on the trailer worked for about a year after I added the trailer.
So I'm thinking the trailer lights will work once again, after I get them to work on the .motorcycle.