05 ST Ignition Problem - No Spark

Art Franz said:
Yes, I hooked it back up. In fact I tested it by probing the wires after the connector, and it tested good. Thanks for the tip, tho. A

At first, I was getting a code 9 which is Intake Air Temp. Because I had the airbox off. I hooked it back up, the code's off. Just a minute --

5 min's later -- I went and checked the FI lite turn the key on and a really quick flash, maybe 1/4 second, and then off. Earlier today, it was showing normally, as you said here, and then the code 9. Now, there's no code 9, and the IAT is unplugged. ???

The most recent thing I've done, is I've got a wrecked 06 in my shed, and I robbed the ECM off it. Swapped it out. No change. Put the 05 ECM back on.
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My '09 developed this not long after delivery. The STealer had it back for weeks (under warranty) trying to find it. They replaced the O2 sensors, and several other sensors (tip over etc) before finally the engine management computer which fixed it. Now I read in your thread you got past this point - but it sounds so similar when you had this issue.
 
Canyons are still awsum!! Some day I will get up in your area!!

I know you checked it but this really sounds like the tip over sensor or wiring to the sensor has be interupted somewhere. Is you fuel pump activated?
 
Art Franz said:
I did some maintenance work during the last few weeks, during which I removed the throttle body to tighten clamps, checked thermostat, and removed all of the front sub-frame assembly to clean up some wiring, and install some more wiring.
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I really hate to say this, but I've found that if I have I problem with my ST1300 I likely caused it...LOL.

If all else fails, personally I would remove every piece of wiring that you added and then try to start the bike. Some of the new wiring may be shorting out the electrical system.

(I am not a professional mechanic - but I do all of the work on my ST1300)
 
Well, the bike's running. I don't know exactly what it was that was preventing it from running, so now I'm not going to trust it.

Here's the last thing I did and it ran: As I mentioned above, I had a spark plug out and was turning it over to see if and when I got spark. Something about that spark plug out was bothering me. Then I remembered: Waaaay back, in the 70's, my first job after school was in a snowmobile dealership and I did a lot of the monkey-wrenching on the sleds. The twin cyl sleds had 1 coil, 1 set of points, and 2 plug leads coming out of the one coil. I remember asking my boss how the coil knew which plug to send the spark to. He said it always went to the plug with the least resistance; the one that was on the compression stroke.

On the ST, similar setup, 2 plugs, one coil, 2 plug leads off one coil. In my case, I had one plug out, so hence there would have never been a compression stroke on that one plug. When I thot of the above, I pulled the other plug out on the same coil, and immediately had spark. So I think, I probably always did have spark, my method of checking for spark was incorrect. I had the throttle body off, and I emptied out the fuel rail so it wouldn't drip gas all over, and I just didn't crank it long enough to get the fuel through to the injectors.

I'm still not sure if I'm right or not on my theory, but the bike's running. Now to put the whole thing back together - - -
 
roadriderg said:
Canyons are still awsum!! Some day I will get up in your area!!

I know you checked it but this really sounds like the tip over sensor or wiring to the sensor has be interupted somewhere. Is you fuel pump activated?
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Really look forward to you coming this way. Just don't come too early in the year, we usually get a lot of rain in June. July and Aug tend to be a lot dryer.
Got the bike going - have you ever had your throttle body off, emptied the fuel rails, and had trouble re-starting? I think that's what was wrong all along here. (See my last previous reply.)
 
RCS said:
I really hate to say this, but I've found that if I have I problem with my ST1300 I likely caused it...LOL.

If all else fails, personally I would remove every piece of wiring that you added and then try to start the bike. Some of the new wiring may be shorting out the electrical system.

(I am not a professional mechanic - but I do all of the work on my ST1300)
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I think this was the case here - I caused my own problem. Thanks for replying. (See my 2 previous replies.)
 
Art Franz said:
Well, the bike's running. I don't know exactly what it was that was preventing it from running, so now I'm not going to trust it.

Here's the last thing I did and it ran: As I mentioned above, I had a spark plug out and was turning it over to see if and when I got spark. Something about that spark plug out was bothering me. Then I remembered: Waaaay back, in the 70's, my first job after school was in a snowmobile dealership and I did a lot of the monkey-wrenching on the sleds. The twin cyl sleds had 1 coil, 1 set of points, and 2 plug leads coming out of the one coil. I remember asking my boss how the coil knew which plug to send the spark to. He said it always went to the plug with the least resistance; the one that was on the compression stroke.

On the ST, similar setup, 2 plugs, one coil, 2 plug leads off one coil. In my case, I had one plug out, so hence there would have never been a compression stroke on that one plug. When I thot of the above, I pulled the other plug out on the same coil, and immediately had spark. So I think, I probably always did have spark, my method of checking for spark was incorrect. I had the throttle body off, and I emptied out the fuel rail so it wouldn't drip gas all over, and I just didn't crank it long enough to get the fuel through to the injectors.

I'm still not sure if I'm right or not on my theory, but the bike's running. Now to put the whole thing back together - - -
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I understand this set up of one coil and two leads sends a spark to both plugs but only one will fire a fuel/air mixture - the other cylinder is on the exhaust stroke so the spark there is "wasted", but they both spark at the same time. I don't think a spark plug or coil can sense when a cylinder is on it's compression stroke.

Whatever, glad the bike is running again.
 
dduelin said:
I understand this set up of one coil and two leads sends a spark to both plugs but only one will fire a fuel/air mixture - the other cylinder is on the exhaust stroke so the spark there is "wasted", but they both spark at the same time. I don't think a spark plug or coil can sense when a cylinder is on it's compression stroke.

Whatever, glad the bike is running again.
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This is also my understanding. Both plugs fire but only one will do anything as the other is on exhaust stroke. I have seen some V-twins do the same thing.

I also read something about what you suspected not long ago somewhere. There is a spark plug tester that I guess isn't too expensive. I think it was normally used in marine use. Anyhow you leave the plug in and the tester sits between the spark plug and boot. A lead connected to each. They mentioned something along the lines that the OP said and that it is possible to get a spark when resting on the block but when there is compression that you may not get one.
 
A cylinder on a compression stroke will increase resistance for the spark, requiring more not less energy. It takes more electrons to ionize more molecules (both air and fuel) before a spark can make the jump.
 
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Art Franz said:
Hi everyone,

I did some maintenance work during the last few weeks, during which I removed the throttle body to tighten clamps, checked thermostat, and removed all of the front sub-frame assembly to clean up some wiring, and install some more wiring. I put the dash back on, and thought before I go too much further, I'll check and see if everything's working. Well, it's not - won't start, no spark.

I went back, and removed everything that I had taken off and put back on, and checked all the connections, and re-checked them, and that all appears good. My battery is good - it's cranking as normal, and I have my charger hooked up and charging to replace the power that I use while testing.

So now I'm in the Service Manual, page 20-4, Ignition System Troubleshooting. No spark at all plugs-that's me.

In the first diagnostic check called Ignition Coil Primary Voltage, I just want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly - I take it that the "initial voltage" under the Unusual Condition heading means 12V at the coil feed? - if so, yes, I do have 12V at the coil. When I'm cranking, approx 9V at the coil, which I believe to be correct. So that's not my "unusual condition".

In the second 'Unusual Condition" it says "peak voltage is normal." I take it that 'peak voltage' means the voltage that comes out the spark plug wire - is that correct? So that's not my 'Unusual Condition' either. Because I have no spark. Am I still correct here?

3rd Unusual Condition - THIS ONE'S ME - Initial Voltage is normal - yes, I do have 12V at the supply wire at the coil. And I have no peak voltage (no spark) while cranking the engine. So under the Probable Cause heading, #1 & 2 are about testing the equipment that I should have ACCORDING TO THE MANUAL, but I don't have this equipment. But I also have no spark, so that means my 'peak voltage' is incorrect, doesn't it? By process of elimination, then, does this mean that my 'Probable Cause' is #3? A faulty ECM? PLEASE SAY IT ISN'T SO
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Hello
What was the reason why your motorbike wasn't giving spark? I'm having the same problem at the moment.
 
Jamo said:
Hello
What was the reason why your motorbike wasn't giving spark? I'm having the same problem at the moment.
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This is a very old thread. Please start a new thread with a description of the no start issue you are having and many here will help you through the diagnostic process.

Chuck
 
my 2005 st1300 Pan European doesn't start after being with a flat battery for a couple of weeks it cranks but no spark though there is voltage put my finger across the spark plug gap and got a boot
 
markhutch said:
my 2005 st1300 Pan European doesn't start after being with a flat battery for a couple of weeks it cranks but no spark though there is voltage put my finger across the spark plug gap and got a boot
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