07 ST1300 Steering lock

Whisker Bill

Whisker Bill

(Brian)
Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 18, 2021
Messages
379
Location
STokes Bay, Ontario & migrating to Florida
Bike
2017 Spyder F3
I mentioned this later in my first post as a new member a few days ago.
I thought it might be better to start a new posting.

When I brought the ST home & put it in storage for the remainder of the winter, I engaged the steering lock which turned out to be a very bad idea! I could feel by the way the key turned, that it was a snug fit.
I tried to unlock right away (without removing the key) but it wouldn’t budge. Since then I’ve tried, but I can only turn the key a small amount, (wiggling the steering) but it won’t budge out of the lock position.
I found out, after contacting the previous owner, that he didn’t use the steering lock.
I’m not a great lover of penetrating oil in locks, but I may have to go that route.
The steering head bearings are nice & tight and rotate freely.
Has anyone else ever had this issue?
If so, how was it resolved?
I’m wondering if it’s possible to insert a small diameter rod from underneath and gently tap it up (to help the pin return to the unlock position)
Thanks in advance
Whisker Bill
(Brian)
 
paulcb said:
Try to unlock with the bars turned hard to the left.
Click to expand...
I do have it locked to the left, and did try adding a little extra force, to no avail.
But, I will try that again tomorrow, using some extra force!
I have always used the steering lock on my bikes if left for any length of time.
This is a first for me to have any issue.
 
OK, sorry for the delay...
If your comfortable working on your own bike(s) the following will probably not only correct your steering lock issue, but make the bike handle better as well.
I often find the forks/steering stem/triple trees on these bikes out of alignment just enough to cause the steering lock to bind/jam etc.
To correct this, you need to loosen the hardware on the front fender, (anything that connects the two fork legs to each other) remove the right front brake caliper (2 bolts), the left front brake caliper/smc (2 bolts), and just loosen the brake line mounting bolts to the fender etc.
It works best if you remove the front tire completely.
Remove the front axle, and clean it down to bare metal, clean the insides of the fork lowers.
Now as you sit facing the bike, try to insert just the axle (no wheel) and see if it slides easily into both fork lowers.
I'm betting it won't.
If you do get the axle in place, grasp it in the center with your right hand, and try and rotate it like a throttle, and see how much resistance you have.
Also try and move it side to side.
You should have NO resistance in either direction, and should be able to take your thumb and index finger and spin it back and forth, and side to side etc.
If you can't, here's what you do...
With the axle inserted into the fork lowers, reach up under the headlight and loosen the two 12mm pinch bolts on the lower tree on the right (brake side) fork tube.
Then loosen the one top pinch bolt on the same fork tube.
The tube should be loose enough to wiggle around (it won't fall down because the axle is keeping it in place)
With your right hand on the axle, and your left hand grasping the right fork tube, twist/turn/lift/lower the tube until you feel the axle release, and have no bind on it in either direction.
This is where you want to re-tighten the pinch bolts etc. Use quarter turns, and each time you snug one bolt down, re-check the axle to make sure you didn't cause it to bind again.
Once you get all three bolts torqued back down, re-torque all the fender hardware and brake line attachment points.
You should notice that you front wheel is now straight, and the axle should be able to slide into place simply by pushing it through with your thumb or finger etc.
This should take all the bind off everything, and you'll probably find your fork lock will lock/release correctly now etc.
Call me on the white courtesy phone if you need further assistance (RAN List)
:WCP1:
 
Kevcules said:
You are pressing “down” on the key before you turn it right? Good luck
Click to expand...
Yes indeed!
Kevcules said:
You are pressing “down” on the key before you turn it right? Good luck
Click to expand...
Good catch!
Well I would hope so, some things we just take for granted, but that could have been very possible, if I were new to motorcycles.
 
Igofar said:
OK, sorry for the delay...
If your comfortable working on your own bike(s) the following will probably not only correct your steering lock issue, but make the bike handle better as well.
I often find the forks/steering stem/triple trees on these bikes out of alignment just enough to cause the steering lock to bind/jam etc.
To correct this, you need to loosen the hardware on the front fender, (anything that connects the two fork legs to each other) remove the right front brake caliper (2 bolts), the left front brake caliper/smc (2 bolts), and just loosen the brake line mounting bolts to the fender etc.
It works best if you remove the front tire completely.
Remove the front axle, and clean it down to bare metal, clean the insides of the fork lowers.
Now as you sit facing the bike, try to insert just the axle (no wheel) and see if it slides easily into both fork lowers.
I'm betting it won't.
If you do get the axle in place, grasp it in the center with your right hand, and try and rotate it like a throttle, and see how much resistance you have.
Also try and move it side to side.
You should have NO resistance in either direction, and should be able to take your thumb and index finger and spin it back and forth, and side to side etc.
If you can't, here's what you do...
With the axle inserted into the fork lowers, reach up under the headlight and loosen the two 12mm pinch bolts on the lower tree on the right (brake side) fork tube.
Then loosen the one top pinch bolt on the same fork tube.
The tube should be loose enough to wiggle around (it won't fall down because the axle is keeping it in place)
With your right hand on the axle, and your left hand grasping the right fork tube, twist/turn/lift/lower the tube until you feel the axle release, and have no bind on it in either direction.
This is where you want to re-tighten the pinch bolts etc. Use quarter turns, and each time you snug one bolt down, re-check the axle to make sure you didn't cause it to bind again.
Once you get all three bolts torqued back down, re-torque all the fender hardware and brake line attachment points.
You should notice that you front wheel is now straight, and the axle should be able to slide into place simply by pushing it through with your thumb or finger etc.
This should take all the bind off everything, and you'll probably find your fork lock will lock/release correctly now etc.
Call me on the white courtesy phone if you need further assistance (RAN List)
:WCP1:
Click to expand...
I’m going to give this a try, you just may have solved the problem.
I think it will have to wait for much warmer weather.
Thank you!
 
Whisker Bill said:
I’m going to give this a try, you just may have solved the problem.
I think it will have to wait for much warmer weather.
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Sounds like the original owner didn't use the steering lock because it probably stopped working after someone worked on the forks ;)
I'm pretty sure by loosening up everything and allowing the forks to align properly, you'll get everything working smoothly.
This is the reason I suggest that folks only work on one fork tube at a time, so they can keep one in the correct position to prevent the fork lock from jamming up.
Good luck, let us know what happens.
:WCP1:
 
Whisker Bill said:
Well, I broke the darn key off in the lock!!
How do I get that out?
Locksmith?
Click to expand...

Unless you (or another resourceful individual here) can figure out a way to remove the broken bit then you may need to call and see if they have a recommendation / trick. You may also end up having to remove the lock assembly, which I figure is not an easy task with the fork lock on.
 
You might try a pick, like a bent awl or dental tool. Use the point to try to wiggle the broken part of the key out. My dentist saves all his old, broken, worn out dental tools for patients of his (like me) who ask and use these for random things around the house and bike. Usually only one end broke off, so the other side is still usable (maybe not for teeth).
 
If the break is near (or right at) the top of the key slot, you can try the hot glue trick...

Get a stick of hot glue, melt the end using cigarette lighter... not to the point of dripping... just get is soft enough to make it stick to stuff. Push the partially melted glue stick straight down onto the broken top of the key, and let is sit there and harden for a minute and (HOPEFULLY) grab the top of the key... Try pulling the key out using the glue stick.

Chances of success??? Not very high.
Cost of attempting??? Also not very high.
 
Whisker Bill said:
I’m going to give this a try, you just may have solved the problem.
I think it will have to wait for much warmer weather.
Thank you!
Click to expand...
I fallowed @Igofar s directions exactly.
Found out the bracket behind the fork was holding the forks cocked.
Take your time, and your bike will handle much better!!!
 
It’s getting the broken key piece out that has me bothered.
It is quite far down into the lock.
I have a locksmith nearby who can have a look at it.
I’m not too hopeful, now that I have made enough room and it’s warm enough to work on it, so tomorrow , I’ll try what Igofar recommended.
Wish me luck!
 
Last edited:
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This is a little late for the PO, but for future issues...
After the long winter, I put my key in my ignition the other day and could not turn that key for nothing. My steering wasnt locked, just couldnt turn the cylinder. I pulled the key and looked at it and it had a bit of a bend in it. I straightened the key and it worked. I wouldnt have thought that would make a difference, but it either did or it was a fluke that the ignition worked after that. I thought I would mention this in the event that someone else has this issue. Easy fix, if it works
 
Whisker Bill said:
I’ll try what Igofar recommended
Click to expand...
ooooops ... You didn't unbind the forks (per Larry's instructions) first before attempting to unlock the steering lock?

Okay, there's only one proper way to remove a broken key from a lock. Actually, there's two:

a) call a locksmith

b) or if you're like me and enjoy tinkering and challenges, do it yourself and buy a, you'll never believe what it's called, a broken key extractor set. I bought a set years ago for about $20 usd.
 
caldercay said:
ooooops ... You didn't unbind the forks (per Larry's instructions) first before attempting to unlock the steering lock?

Okay, there's only one proper way to remove a broken key from a lock. Actually, there's two:

a) call a locksmith

b) or if you're like me and enjoy tinkering and challenges, do it yourself and buy a, you'll never believe what it's called, a broken key extractor set. I bought a set years ago for about $20 usd.
Click to expand...

Note: The bike is sitting in front of a stored car (that I can’t move) almost against the overhead door. So, working on the forks isn’t an option until I have room.

First... How I broke the darn key...
Disclaimer:
I {being the stupid person I can occasionally be} thought I would try the penetrating oil first, I soaked the lock mechanism well, and was just starting to work the key back & forth and in & out, when a pal saw I was at the storage building, and stopped in the talk about an unrelated issue. Foolishly I allowed him to assist me, knowing full well I was much better off to halt all work until he left.
I am not in any way blaming anyone else for my short sightedness!
Yup, fast forward, the key is now broken off and the fork lock is still on.

Ok, 2 days later, I had a locksmith spend the better part of an hour trying to get it out. No luck!

I actually do see the humour in this, even though I happen to be totally peed off about it being stuck in the building and not cruising down the blacktop with me smiling away under my helmet.
 
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