2006 ST1300 / Notchy Shifting

Is it a 2006 thing????

I also have a 2006 from new, now 45k miles on it. I've never been impressed with how it shifts. This with all the talk here of how smooth The ST1300 shifts. I've cleaned and lubed the ball joints in the linkage, (You know you can adjust that linkage to set shift lever height right? This could help.) Clutch is always clean and bled, Tried different oils, etc.

I even had 2 shops test drive it 3 times under warranty and they said no problems. I don't think they wanted to rip the bike apart.

I also feel the distinct 2 step notch when I shift. I think it's shift fork or gear dog related. Mine will also "get lost" between shifts occasionally. Not a false neutral but the lever goes dead. It won't grab the next gear without first unloading the power.

I also feel I shouldn't need to be concentrating on shift technique all the time. although when I don't is when I get that dead shifter lever thing.

IGOFAR: On the clutch rebuild which way for the sharp edges? That's a new one for me. Wish I had known this on my last 3 clutch installs.

Iirc the sharp edges should be facing outwards..and you should soak the plates you will use in the oil to be used for a few hours prior to installing them.
 
I got out for a while last Saturday and experimented with the shifting. I tried different combinations of pre-loading the shift lever, maintaining the rpms during the shift, completely closing the throttle during the shift, and shifting at different rpms. The only thing that seem to consistently improve the shifting was shifting above 4500 rpms. I've typically kept the rpms between 3000-4000 as I've always felt like that range felt comfortable to the engine. It just may be that what I've been experiencing can't be fixed due to the design, but simply managed.
 
When is the shifting problem worse ... When the bike is first used after the first start-up of the day or after it's really warmed up ?? Or is there no difference ??
 
After all the posts I've seen in this thread about shifting problems on 2006 ST1300s, I don't think I'll ever buy a black motorcycle. If I ever actually buy another motorcycle, it may have to be another red one - a red Motus...
 
When is the shifting problem worse ... When the bike is first used after the first start-up of the day or after it's really warmed up ?? Or is there no difference ??

It's noticeably worse after it's completely up to operating temperature. When I rode it home from the shop, it was 24F, was a short 12 mile ride, and didn't include any highway. I didn't ride again until it was much warmer, around 60F, and I rode for more than 90 minutes. Again, the strange thing is that if I ride on the highway for 10+ miles, for the first half dozen shifts or so, it's extremely smooth, then reverts to being notchy.
 
Well , my theory is that this problem is a design problem. Maybe there just isn't enough clearance between the plates when the clutch lever is pulled-in when the bike is hot ??? Does the right exhaust pipe on the ST1300 run close to the clutch cover like on the ST1100 ?? If so, maybe the heat off the exhaust pipe gets the clutch cover really hot and the heat is transferred into the clutch discs. That might cause them to expand and reduce the clearance between the plates (??? ). You could wrap the exhaust pipe with heat barrier tape to see if that helps the clutch action. I'm going to try it on my ST1100 to see if it makes a difference, even though it seems to shift OK ( but not great ).
 
That's pretty much my mindset at this point. It's nothing that can truly be corrected, but can be mitigated by adjusting the shifting technique. I'm finally going to get out for a decent ride today after work. I'm going to experiment further to see what I can come up with.
 
That's pretty much my mindset at this point. It's nothing that can truly be corrected, but can be mitigated by adjusting the shifting technique. I'm finally going to get out for a decent ride today after work. I'm going to experiment further to see what I can come up with.

After a little more thinking ( watch out !! ) , I'm wondering if the clutch rod was lengthened slightly , say about 3/16 " , if that would help ? Maybe the piston in the slave cylinder isn't retracting as much as it could be. It gets retracted by the rod and clutch pressure plate. That would limit the distance the clutch pressure plate is moving when the clutch lever is pulled. I know on my ST1100 there is about a 1/2" of travel at the end of the clutch lever before some resistance is felt. I'm planning on rebuilding my slave cylinder in a few weeks. I have a new clutch rod on hand. I'll take some measurements and if there is excessive slop between the rod & slave cylinder piston, I'll weld a bit on the end of the old rod and then smooth it out and see if that makes a notable difference.
 
My next oil I'll try will be the Chevron Delo Synblend 10w-30 Will be awhile till it's time for that oil change.
 
Well, I just rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder on my ST1100 . I took that measurement and there is only about 4 mm clearance between the end of the clutch rod and the slave cylinder piston when it is fully retracted. That sounds about right to me. With a new clutch pack the clearance may be even less. My ST1100 has 75k miles on it, mostly on the slab.

Would be interesting to know how that compares to the ST1300's clearance, especially on LegoMan's ST1300.
 
I have not read all of the posts.

If it has not been suggested, why not find another ST1300 owner close by and trade bikes for a 10 mile ride. See if his/hers is any different than yours in terms of shifting. This kind of test would eliminate the human factor.
 
I've thought of that. I don't know anyone with an ST1300. Hoping local dealer might have one available for their demo day coming up soon.
 
I figure there should some slight play to allow for heat expansion...

Concur - And if none, the clutch pack wouldn't be able to completely compress and get the full spring force when the lever is released.
 
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LegoMan, can you please share with us if you managed to find the source and tackle the issue? I have similar issues on my ST1300.
 
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the shifting on my '06 gets notchy the longer I ride and I'm using rotella 10w 40 synthetic oil. I was thinking of using Castrol t4 10w 40 ( I use this in my wing ) to see if it makes a difference
 
I have never subscribed to the brand of oil being the culprit related to difficulties in shifting. The correct spec, maybe. I have been using 10w40 of some type, mostly Rotella, for 25 years in three STs, never an oil related issue.

Clutch system and fluid, maybe.

The worst problem I have ever had with shifting, on any bike I have ever owned, was due to lack of lubrication at the linkage joints on my current ST1300. Once I carefully injected some waterproof lithium grease under the rubber boots, all was well. This has been discussed thoroughly on this site.
 
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