2007 ST1300 Starts then dies

Huang

Huang
Joined
Apr 3, 2022
Messages
3
Age
62
Location
NC
Bike
2007 ST1300
Good Evening All,

Looking for some help with a 2007 ST1300 running issue.
The bike will start, running for a few seconds, then dies. Turn off the kill switch, turn it back on the fuel pump comes on for a few seconds and shuts off. The bike will start, run a few seconds and then die.
The bike has approx 77,000 miles. It was last ridden memorial day weekend 2021 and ran fine on a 1700 mile trip. It was stored in a garage with a battery tender on it. Fuel gauge reads 3 bars.

It seems like the fuel pump comes on enough to pressurize the system but once the bike starts the fuel pump isn't running. Anyone have any ideas where to start trouble shooting this issue?

Thanks in advance.
The New Guy
 
If your fuel pump runs for a couple seconds before starting, the electrical side is probably fine.

With only three bars of fuel, you may have had some condensation inside the tank, which will collect at the bottom around the fuel pump. You might be able to look through the filler cap and see if the tank/fuel looks rusty? But to check the fuel pump properly means draining the top tank and removing, and removing the fuel pump from the bottom tank (new gasket and new 'elbow' fuel hose required)

Another thing to check is the injector wiring, also under the upper tank. The insulation on the wiring seems to be considered delicious by mice, and this seems to be a common place for them to build nests.

Only other thoughts at this stage - what does the exhaust smell like? (Can you smell fuel/burnt hydrocarbons?) If the fuel pump is blocked or injectors aren't firing, it'll be dry (but if it runs for a few seconds, that's unlikely). Any strange noises as it dies, or do the revs just drop (there is a brass/wax actuator that holds the throttle open slightly when cold, is it just revving too low/can you keep it running by holding the throttle open slightly? Air filter blocked? (Rodents again...) Another thing to check is the '5 way tee' - this connects the vacuum lines from each throttlebody to the MAP sensor, if this is blocked it can cause problems. Again, under the upper tank.
 
Did you park the bike with ethanol fuel in it? If so it probably has water in the fuel. Also a fuel pump for a Honda Civic from your local parts store with work. Not sure of the years. Others can chime in. Somewhere around $30.00. Much cheaper than from Honda. Drain all the gas from both tanks. Put in the new fuel pump since it is 15 years old. Buy a can of SeaFoam and put some in with your gas. This will clean your injectors. I’ll bet you will be good to go after that. Always store your bike with STA-BIL fuel stabilizer during down times.
 
Can you keep it alive if you rev it? If so, I would take it for a spin and see how it reacts once warmed up. Maybe swing by a gas station and get some fresh gas as well. You will not be able to hear the fuel pump when the engine is running, so how did you determine that the pump doesn't work?
 
Try running the bike with the fuel cap loose as the air vent may be blocked. Also check the cut out switches on the clutch lever and the side stand as they can short out and cause problems.
 
One thing nobody's mentioned yet it the fuel filter. Nobody ever changes the filters, and I've found them completely clogged, so much so, that you could not push fuel through them with a syringe etc.
The fuel pump is probably a good idea, but make sure you also change your filter, and use the HONDA fuel line(s) and not the aftermarket stuff, as they tend to swell up and fail when submerged in fuel.
You may want to check the five way tee also to your starter valves, as it may be clogged up as well.
 
Thank you all for the advice, it's truly appreciated.
.
So a bit more info that may help narrow things a little. Turn on the key, get all the normal lights, fuel pump comes on and pressurizes the system. Start the bike and it idles fine, no sputtering or back fire. The exhaust smells like it should, not like old fuel, not smoking. The bike runs for a few seconds then quits, almost like it was turned off. Immediately turn off the kill switch and turn it back on, let the pump pressurize the system, hit the starter and the bike starts and runs fine for a few seconds then stops. If the process is repeated and the throttle is opened during those few seconds the engine revs like it should then stops again only a little quicker. This was repeated 10 or so times with the same results. It didn't get to the point where it was warmed up. I didn't want to toast the starter. Also the battery was getting a bit low.

The bike was on the center stand and in neutral while being tested.

Yes, there was ethanol fuel in the tank over the winter without Sta-Bil. I intended to keep riding over the winter, but life got in the way.

I did try it with the gas cap open, same result. Added more fuel, no change.

I would think a clogged filter might be a problem but with the quick recovery after stopping I didn't think so.

I would have thought bad fuel/water in the fuel would have prevented a quick restart and not given consistent results.

I figured with smooth running while it does run would eliminate the bad injector wiring.

I'm thinking the ECM is missing a sensor input. Does anyone know what are the requirements for the fuel pump to be on while the motor is running? MAP sensor? Knock sensors? TPS?

OKCKeith, thanks for the heads up non the Civic fuel pump. ( I used a mid 80's mustang fuel pump in my BMWK1100LT)

Again, thank you all for your help and ideas.
The New Guy

P.S. I have not removed/checked anything as yet due to work .
 
Very weird.
Did you try holding the throttle open a little instead of revving it bringing the revs up around 2000 and leaving it there and see what happens?
When you turn the key on, does your fuel injection light come on, then go out before you try to start and when it stalls then stays on? Have you checked for codes? You would think it would throw a code if the ECM indeed detected a fault.
Don't think it's bad fuel if it starts right up and idles normally.
 
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I am thinking fuel filter way before ecm.
The filter is definitely not 100% clogged or it wouldn’t run at all.
I would consider that the fuel pump’s initial pressurization is getting enough fuel set up for a moment but is too restricted to allow continuous running.
To test your ecm theory, I would judiciously give the bike a touch of starting fluid as it begins to stall to see if it will keep the engine running for a few more seconds. Do not run on the starting fluid any longer than it takes to verify this.
 
STOP guessing! The first diagnostic step is to check for failure codes in the ECU. The codes (or lack of) will dictate the next step. All of the speculation above are valid failures and valid wild goose chases. Gather facts first. For example A fault in the injector circuit (aka possible rodent damage) would allow the pump to initialize but not allow it to continue running as it is controlled by the ECU via several relays. There is info on the wiki link above on this site for reading the codes.
 
Mr. CruSty, you are absolutely correct. Found the code test procedure and had some time to go out to the shop. The test revealed a 9 and a 12 for codes, The 9 is expected because I had the air cleaner open to check the air filter. The 12 (#1 Injector wiring/ mouse damage) was not expected.

mjc506 wins the prize for the correct guess as to the root cause of the issue.

Well, at least this forces me to investigate the creative wiring done by the previous owner. I might even look at the non functioning cruise control.

To all that replied thank you for your help in diagnosing this issue.
 
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