28 amp alternator removal help

kawamewa

Joined
Jul 2, 2013
Messages
14
Location
Malaysia
hi,
im raj from malaysia
i jst bought an old st11 92 model,

my alternator is crack, im trying to remove it
if any body know what's that 17mm bold i n the pic, i think if i remove the bold i can take the alternator out, currently the alternator is up side down.
Its safe to remove that bold, does hold anything inside, pls refer attach pic, pls help, thank you. i cant afford to remove the swingarm
 

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I'm surprised that someone hasn't come along with some advise. Read some of the other messages in this ST1100 alternator section and you will see what others have done. There is also more information, including splitting the alternator halves to get it back in. CLICK HERE

John
 
I can't say what that bolt is in there for, but if the 28 amp alternator removal was possible by removing it, I'm sure Honda wouldn't have made the service method as hard as it is, as outlined in the Service Manual. The service manual states that you must remove the swing arm. That bolt could be a long one too and might not have clearance to be removed anyway.
 
You must remove the swingarm. Have you done that? (Cant' tell from the pics.) Not too big of a deal but "special" tools are needed at some steps. Any of them can be home made.

That particular bolt... Looking. Hmmm, can't find it. I went out to look under my ol' 91 Black ST and can't find that bolt. Rear wheel is removed but the swingarm is still in place, making it kinda hard to see in there. I'll pull some more plastic 'n such and take another look after breakfast.

That bolt appears to be into the lower left corner of the oil pan, I don't recall needing to remove any such on the alternators I've worked on over the years. John Oo? Any thoughts?
 
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Okay, I'm officially confused. Raj, I don't believe you are looking at the alternator, tho I don't know what it is. Here's a couple pics from a motor setting on my garage floor. 28 amp alternator, looking in toward the left rear corner of the motor (1) and looking straight down onto the alternator (2). Note there is no part of the crankcase overhanging the alternator, certainly nothing like that 14 mm bolt.

View attachment 146141 View attachment 146142

Looking more closely at your pics, I see the "adjustable link" motor mount on the left of your picture. There are two of those links, the 12 mm located below and forward of the alternator, the 10mm located above and to the rear of the alternator. I can't tell which one we're looking at there.

Anyway, I don't think we're looking at the same thing. My pic (1) is definitely looking directly into the rear of the 28 amp alternator and you can see there is no such bolt above it.

Keep us poSTed.
 
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george, the bolt i mention is holding alternator gear if im not mistaken from looking at this pic steng.jpg
 
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its my bad, since one of the bracket of the alternator which mount to engine is broken/crack and engine oil is leaking , i thought i will have space to remove it, i manage to pull out the whole unit and forgot to put the 6mm bolt to hold the gear in place, but its ok , now i think i really have to remove the oil pan and also the swing arm, do i really need to replace the crown nut during the installation of the swim arm, will try to diy the tool. my earlier pic show the alternator gears are facing down and the back cover is facing up
 
Depending on which of the 2 O-rings is leaking, its mostly sufficient to remove only the stator and replace its O-ring; to do so pulling the swing arm however is unavoidable...
Pulling the entire set, including drive gear and rotor, is a tad more stressful, but still does not require removal of oil-pan... just remove the swing arm first.
The gears are 'spring loaded' to eliminate slag/noise, but can be wiggled together during installation, or one goes by a procedure referred as the 'Lewis Pin(TM)' (just crank the forum search for it).
Just don't jam any of those O-rings during installation, keep them well lubed (I prefer silicone paste) and also check the well cleaned mating surfaces in engine case and alternator base for any scratches.
Also see to not bang the winding heads onto any metal object during handling, insulation lacquer doesn't take such well..
 
Duh! Okay, I get it now, in my pic, the offending bolt is above the alternator. You have your alternator already loose and turned up to try to get past that bolt. Never had problem there in all my previous alt. changes.

If the swingarm isn't already removed, you'll have to remove it. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Your location and such, I'd seriously consider having that swing-arm shot with Line-X bed liner to protect it from corrosion while it's out;).
 
George said:
John Oo? Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Sorry, I'm late to the thread. [-]I don't know what that bolt is for. Can't find it on a fiche.[/-] [edit: see posts below] But I wouldn't remove it. Raj, you're going to have to remove the swingarm to fix your problem.

John
 
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Looking at the Honda Service Manual, Primary Drive Gear/Starter Clutch Removal/Installation schematic (p. 11-10), the bolt in question appears to hold/fix the starter idle gear shaft.


Crankcase page 11-10.jpgCrankcase page 11-11.jpg

BTW, this schematic shows the internal crankcase breather chamber ("oil separate plate") used on all but the USA 1991 ST1100s.

John

via iPhone 4S
 
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im confused on the lock nut, does it turn clock wise to loosen?IMG_20131202_151425.jpg i was using impact counter clock wise to open the lock nut, but apparently the whole pivot bold came off together with the lock nut, the lock nut still intact :(
 
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