5 Way T Vacuum Hoses

CYYJ said:
I'm a bit surprised at all this discussion about using impact drivers - I don't own one, and have never had the need for one.

Michael
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Lucky you! :thumb:

I own two impact drivers and I have used them many times...especially with the lower air box screws that get stripped out the first time you remove them. Let's see, I've done the '05, '04#1, '04#2, the '10 and the 12. So that's 5 bikes, plus I'll be working on that last wreck I obtained, so that will be 6 sets of those screws! And my impact drivers has saved the day on each of them! Not to mention all the other times I've used them, since 1972 when I had my first Yamaha DS7 250 twin (smaller version of the R5), and I was stripping out screws (since that what they used back then) every time I worked on it, until I bought my first impact driver!

Lucky me! :cool:
 
SupraSabre said:
I own two impact drivers and I have used them many times...especially with the lower air box screws that get stripped out the first time you remove them.
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The only reason that the lower airbox screws get stripped out is because someone has used a Phillips screwdriver (rather than a JIS screwdriver) to remove or replace those fasteners. I've had the lower airbox off my ST 1300 half a dozen times, and all the fasteners still look brand new. They are easy to remove with a normal JIS screwdriver.

In other words, using JIS screwdrivers all the time and never using Phillips screwdrivers eliminates the need to ever use an impact driver.

Michael
 
CYYJ said:
The only reason that the lower airbox screws get stripped out is because someone has used a Phillips screwdriver (rather than a JIS screwdriver) to remove or replace those fasteners. I've had the lower airbox off my ST 1300 half a dozen times, and all the fasteners still look brand new. They are easy to remove with a normal JIS screwdriver.

In other words, using JIS screwdrivers all the time and never using Phillips screwdrivers eliminates the need to ever use an impact driver.

Michael
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I have JIS 1/4 bits, but the first time those screws come out are often after a lot of :censored: even with those bits! Much easier with an impact driver. Now, after they come out that first time, it's no problem to remove them the next time. Like someone said, they must be installed by the same person that installs that first oil filter!

And you have removed those particular screws from how many ST1300s?
 
SupraSabre said:
I have JIS 1/4 bits, but the first time those screws come out are often after a lot of :censored: even with those bits! Much easier with an impact driver. Now, after they come out that first time, it's no problem to remove them the next time. Like someone said, they must be installed by the same person that installs that first oil filter!

And you have removed those particular screws from how many ST1300s?
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Ooh Ooh ask me that question Bob :scared2:
I think I may have removed more than even you, with all your bikes :crackup:
Like Michael said, If you use the correct tool and procedure, you don't damage stuff, so you don't need to use impacts. :nuts:
 
Igofar said:
Ooh Ooh ask me that question Bob :scared2:
I think I may have removed more than even you, with all your bikes :crackup:
Like Michael said, If you use the correct tool and procedure, you don't damage stuff, so you don't need to use impacts. :nuts:
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No, I'm not going to ask you....although I'll ask you how many times you have removed throttlebodies....:well1: ;)

I'm sure that you use your Tee handled JIS with the 1/4" bits, but since I don't have one, I've just used my impact drivers to do the dirty work! But, I did buy a new JIS impact driver, since my son sent me $60 for a helmet he sent me, so now, I won't have to struggle with those screws, nor will I bugger them up. Oh, and BTW, didn't I send you a bunch of those screws a couple of years ago? Of course, for those ones in the bikes, that come buggered up to you? :rolleyes:
 
SupraSabre said:
No, I'm not going to ask you....although I'll ask you how many times you have removed throttlebodies....:well1: ;)

I'm sure that you use your Tee handled JIS with the 1/4" bits, but since I don't have one, I've just used my impact drivers to do the dirty work! But, I did buy a new JIS impact driver, since my son sent me $60 for a helmet he sent me, so now, I won't have to struggle with those screws, nor will I bugger them up. Oh, and BTW, didn't I send you a bunch of those screws a couple of years ago? Of course, for those ones in the bikes, that come buggered up to you? :rolleyes:
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Dang.....you sank my Battleship :rofl1:
I don't need to remove the TB's with my Ninja skilled hands, as everything I've ever needed to do, I can do through the front :nanner1:
Truth be told, I've not used my T-handle in quite a while....I find a drop of penetrating oil and a JIS screwdriver is all I use pretty much all the time now :rolleyes:
And BTW....you did send me a bunch of screws a couple years ago (they helped out several members at both the Georgia Tech event, and a couple ride in's) thank you very much for your donation to the cause :thumb: and while they didn't come as buggered up as the rear brake caliper bracket you sent, I could tell how they were removed...:nanana1:
You only sank one of my Battleships...I've still got a couple left. :bump:
 
Igofar said:
Dang.....you sank my Battleship :rofl1:
I don't need to remove the TB's with my Ninja skilled hands, as everything I've ever needed to do, I can do through the front :nanner1:
Truth be told, I've not used my T-handle in quite a while....I find a drop of penetrating oil and a JIS screwdriver is all I use pretty much all the time now :rolleyes:
And BTW....you did send me a bunch of screws a couple years ago (they helped out several members at both the Georgia Tech event, and a couple ride in's) thank you very much for your donation to the cause :thumb: and while they didn't come as buggered up as the rear brake caliper bracket you sent, I could tell how they were removed...:nanana1:
You only sank one of my Battleships...I've still got a couple left. :bump:
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Blubblub... :rofl1:

As for "How those screws were removed"... I confess, I Didn't do it! :chairfall1:

They came that way in one or many of those "screws, brackets, and associated parts" I've bought off eBay, over the years!
Extras come in very handy! :hat3:

As for the throttlebodies, I don't have dinky hands, therefore when replacing the wax thermo gadget (like I did on the 2010) and the coolant lines that go to it, and the oil cooler lines, I find removing the throttlebody much easier!

Wait until I go for replacing the clutch slave on my '04, I'll be removing the exhaust and centerstand, and since I'm replacing the hoses to the oil cooler, I'll have that off as well!

It's going to be one naked bike! If I can ever get back to it! :doh1:
 
SupraSabre said:
On ebay, I found a number of JIS "Tips", but wonder if they would fit my SAE Impact Screw driver? :think1:
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Problem solved! My Vessel JIS Impact Driver came in last night.

And the answer is YES, the JIS impact bits will fit a SAE impact driver. Also note, that the adapters are both 1/2". And the sae bits fit better in the Vessel Impact Driver, than their own drivers! :shrug1:

Vessel Impact Driver

Impact Driver Bits
 
Well - this thread has educated me and fixed (hopefully) my idling problem (I say hopefully because I only managed a quick jaunt when finished before the rains came down).
Noticed the bad idling a couple weeks ago after I had left it out in the rain and some cold weather for a couple days. Managed to get it going using the 'kick stand up, and wide open throttle' method and took it for a spin. It seemed to clear itself and so I went for a long 35 miler through the local valleys and countryside. Yep - it returned again yesterday .... bad idling and FI flashing (Code 9 I later learned). Got into the garage and set to searching this forum!
Thanks to this thread - with great pics - and a couple other threads, I removed the 5 way Tee, cleaned it, replaced the hoses - per Igofar's recommendations and Bob's your uncle, Fanny's your aunt - - no more flashing FI and clean, smooth idling. Brilliant!!! (I did strip one of the JIS screws - - hands are up, I used Phillips #2 - - but drilled it out and completed the mission)
Thank you to all on this - and other - threads that brought me the solution. Great wealth of knowledge here - thank you IgoFar, Michael, Bob, and all!
 
Order or buy this kit. Its only a couple bucks, and you'll have more than enough.
You'll want a slightly upward angle to the tee to keep it clear.
I add about 1/4 inch to the factory length.
If you make the hoses longer, you'll be creating a long "kitchen sink trap" and have to go back in there and do it all over again later :rolleyes:
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etalors said:
Since it is sold by the foot. How much is needed. Thanks.
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I'm sorry to be of no help - I don't remember. I did this job only once and some years ago. It wasn't very much, maybe 4 or 5 feet should be plenty. I moved the tee towards the forks and out from underneath the throttle bodies so if I ever had to access the tee again it wasn't necessary to remove the air box and TB assembly to get to it. This added a little to the amount of hose that was strictly necessary.
 
One more "gotcha" to watch out for.

Make sure that the sensor that mounts on the airbox top half doesn't get trapped under the airbox bottom half when you're putting things back together. I suspect if you get it trapped in the throttle body area, you'll notice it when screwing down the under funnel doohickeys. But if it's off to the side... you may not notice it until you go to hook it back up, and you can't find it. DAMHIKT.

Fortunately, I only had to remove the airbox top again, and I was able to fish and finagle it back out. If you're paying even less attention than I was, you may not be quite so lucky.

btw, I really, really wish I would have found this write up yesterday morning. Before I dove into it.
 
Igofar said:
You do not need to remove the throttle bodies to replace the vacuum lines or clean the tee.
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I can confirm that T/B does not need to be removed to replace vacuum hoses. I replaced the 5-way T and vacuum hoses without removing the gas tank (2 bars showing), HeliBars (#HR01032, Gen 3?), or the T/B. The tank took a bit of doing, but with some effort, it was able to clear the bars without removing the tether. A drop of MMO and a thin flat blade screwdriver to push old line off the T/B, and a dab of Q-tip dipped in caliber grease to help slide the new line on (The part I was most worried about.).
What made the job much easier for me (removing and especially replacing vacuum lines), was using an inexpensive hose plier from Harbor Freight.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread with such valuable advice and info. I hope this helps.
IMG_5520.JPG

I know, not very good build quality, but I found it invaluable.
 
Team2010 said:
Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I can confirm that T/B does not need to be removed to replace vacuum hoses. I replaced the 5-way T and vacuum hoses without removing the gas tank (2 bars showing), HeliBars (#HR01032, Gen 3?), or the T/B. The tank took a bit of doing, but with some effort, it was able to clear the bars without removing the tether. A drop of MMO and a thin flat blade screwdriver to push old line off the T/B, and a dab of Q-tip dipped in caliber grease to help slide the new line on (The part I was most worried about.).
What made the job much easier for me (removing and especially replacing vacuum lines), was using an inexpensive hose plier from Harbor Freight.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread with such valuable advice and info. I hope this helps.
I know, not very good build quality, but I found it invaluable.
Click to expand...

With that job under your belt, it's time to break out that old 'model ship in a bottle' project?
 
Team2010 said:
Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I can confirm that T/B does not need to be removed to replace vacuum hoses. I replaced the 5-way T and vacuum hoses without removing the gas tank (2 bars showing), HeliBars (#HR01032, Gen 3?), or the T/B. The tank took a bit of doing, but with some effort, it was able to clear the bars without removing the tether. A drop of MMO and a thin flat blade screwdriver to push old line off the T/B, and a dab of Q-tip dipped in caliber grease to help slide the new line on (The part I was most worried about.).
What made the job much easier for me (removing and especially replacing vacuum lines), was using an inexpensive hose plier from Harbor Freight.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread with such valuable advice and info. I hope this helps.
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Thanks for the info!!
I have needle nose that are even longer (not a hose plier, but I have used it as such before).

I need to do this soon as I did get a couple random FI errors on a rainy trip through AR... weirdly enough, by the time I got home, the errors went away.
 
If you were getting codes in rainy weather, you may want to check the bottom two hoses on your smog canister, and also the three hoses that point forward on the left rear corner of the engine, as these clog up with rain and or mud and cause vacuum issues which will cause your FI light to go on etc.
 
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