'91 st1100 brake pads???

[Outlaws]

Planning front brake & clutch hose upgrade to steel lines & figured it would be a good time to replace brake pads as well.
After reading several threads on the subject here I plan to stick with OEM pads.
Searched several parts sites & come up with this list,
Front pads
45105-ML7-922 PAD A, FR. (Honda Motorcycle Code 3138930) (SEE KIT P/N--END OF BLOCK)
$14.52 2 $29.04
45106-ML7-922 PAD B, FR. (Honda Motorcycle Code 3138948) (SEE KIT P/N--END OF BLOCK)
$18.94 2 $37.88
Rear pads
43105-MT3-007 PAD A (Honda Motorcycle Code 3485430) (NOT AVAILABLE)
$23.70 1 $23.70
43106-MT3-007 PAD B (Honda Motorcycle Code 3485448) (NOT AVAILABLE)
$14.52 1 $14.52
Washers-brake & clutch hoses
90545-300-000 WASHER, OIL BOLT (Honda Motorcycle Code 0189902)
$1.79 9 $16.11
Washer-clutch hose @ master cylinder
45535-MT3-010 WASHER, OIL BOLT (Honda Motorcycle Code 3485786) Use up to Frame SN MM10127
$4.28 1 $4.28
My question is,
You can't get pads for these in sets for a reasonable amount???
And what's with the $$$ difference from A & B for the same caliper???

Am I missing something here or is there a better source for these???

Thanks in advance, Mike

 

[juddspaintballs]

Mike, where did you get those prices? That seems like a reasonable price

 

[Outlaws]

Mike, where did you get those prices? That seems like a reasonable price

found these items & prices @
http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/
with similar ones @
http://www.powersedge.com/
&
http://www.cyclepartsnation.com/

 

[Outlaws]

Amen to that...

Thanks

The Pad A and Pad B are the individual pads in the set for a single caliper. You don't want to buy them that way. You should buy the set.

E.g., CheapCycleParts.com price for front set is $31.27, rear is $28.56. Not much different than other online prices.

 

[MARCUS ST1100]

I would go with aftermarket pads,they stop way better than OEM and cheaper I got my stuff from Cycle Brakes Galfer HH pads

 

[tkresler]

Interesting thread. I've got my wheels off tonight for new skins tomorrow, and since it's raining cats and dogs here, I thought I might do my brakes at the same time.

When I look at the fiche from CheapCycleParts.com, I see two pads for the front brakes and one for the rear in a set. They have each set for about $30 OEM. When I look on the cyclebrakes.net site, each pad is about $30 for Gaffer replacements. Are Gaffers really that much better that they are twice as much as OEM? Is it really worth it, since I've always been pretty happy with my OEM pads?

Help is always appreciated!

Tim

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

+1 on OEM pads. Great performance, long wear, and easy on your rotors.

BTW, here's some pictures that may be of interest to you, Mike:
http://rides.webshots.com/album/563221618wHTihQ
http://rides.webshots.com/album/553581859wzdfYd
[sorry, I haven't gotten around to adding captions...]

Regards, John

 

[tkresler]

John,
You are, as always, a fountain of information. I'm ordering OEM's now, and appreciate the help.

Have we met at Moonshine two years ago? If not, will we meet at 2009? I'd love to buy you the beverage of your choice and chat for a bit. You seem to have a real love for this particular bike.

Tim

 

[tkresler]

OK. Ordered the brakes. Now, I've heard talk about speed bleeders, do I need them to do the job myself? If so, can I find them locally so I don't have to spend $5 to ship a $10 tool?

Tim

 

[CarSalesman]

My OEM pads were gone at 15k. I bought pads on ebay, not sure the brand. They never stopped as well. Just changed my rear tire at 20k, and see those pads are already wiped out. Back to the OEM.

I think the wear is the result of having to use more brake pressure to get the same stopping. Those pads just didn't have much braking effect.

 

[tkresler]

Yeah, I'm at 20k (give or take) and it's time for new pads for sure. I'm glad I ordered them up today, but since I'm too cheap to expedite the order, I'll probably be pulling the tires again to do them in a week since I'm sure I'll want to try out my new tires.

Tim

 

[RobsTV]

Tim, no you do not need to bleed the brakes if you only change the pads.
But, you might want to change out the brake fluid anyway.

Replaced my pads at 17,000 miles, and they still had plenty of meat left.

I got a great deal on some DP pads, so gave them a try.
SDP117HH and DP118.
Unbelievable difference in stopping power.
Probably dropped stopping distance more than half.
Almost scary that I ran the stock pads as long as I did, when great pads were just a few minutes of installation time away. You just don't know the difference until you feel the difference.

Stock are great for long life.
Aftermarket are great for much better stopping. Don't know about life yet.
If you rate lifespan by how hard you need to apply brakes to stop, these DP pads will last twice as long as OEM.

For something so important, and quick/easy to change, I would go with shorter life if it means better stopping, but that's my own preference.

 

[tkresler]

Tim, no you do not need to bleed the brakes if you only change the pads.
But, you might want to change out the brake fluid anyway.

Replaced my pads at 17,000 miles, and they still had plenty of meat left.

I got a great deal on some DP pads, so gave them a try.
SDP117HH and DP118.
Unbelievable difference in stopping power.
Probably dropped stopping distance more than half.
Almost scary that I ran the stock pads as long as I did, when great pads were just a few minutes of installation time away. You just don't know the difference until you feel the difference.

Stock are great for long life.
Aftermarket are great for much better stopping. Don't know about life yet.
If you rate lifespan by how hard you need to apply brakes to stop, these DP pads will last twice as long as OEM.

For something so important, and quick/easy to change, I would go with shorter life if it means better stopping, but that's my own preference.

Great information, Rob. Since I ordered the stocks already, I'll stick with them, but I'll keep in mind the upgrade for next time.

I think it's time for the brake fluid to go bye-bye. Bike is a 97 with 20k miles on it, that fluid has got to be getting pretty old and nasty.

Tim