ABS fault code 12 Blinks

rgmb2

Joined
May 11, 2009
Messages
34
Location
IL
Bike
2003 ST1300 A
Hi Guys -

In 2013 I hooked up a battery backwards in ‘03 1300 ABS. Thanks to some help here I got the 65A main fuse located and swapped. I mentioned then the ABS light was flashing and that I would get around to trouble shooting it. 4 years later here we are. Been busy.....:eek:

Anyway, the reset on the STicki did not clear the faults and I get 12 blinks followed by a steady light then 12 blinks again. Any ideas welcomed.
 
in the service manual....5-13
says Symptoms.... does not start.

cause
*loose or poor contact on No 1 injector connector
*open or short circuit in No 1 injector wire
*Faulty No 1 Injector
 
Yup. -2 blinks, and then repeats. Been doing that for 4 years...no issues prior to backward battery hook-up.
 
Gandolkf said:
in the service manual....5-13
says Symptoms.... does not start.

cause
*loose or poor contact on No 1 injector connector
*open or short circuit in No 1 injector wire
*Faulty No 1 Injector
Click to expand...

You're looking at the FI codes, pg 5-12. rgmb2 is getting the problem code from the ABS light. I can't tell from his posts if he is getting a code 2 or code 12, but both codes are related to the front wheel, either the speed sensor or front motor driver circuit, whatever that is. Ref. page 18-7 in the SM.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Don B said:
You're looking at the FI codes, pg 5-12. rgmb2 is getting the problem code from the ABS light. I can't tell from his posts if he is getting a code 2 or code 12, but both codes are related to the front wheel, either the speed sensor or front motor driver circuit, whatever that is. Ref. page 18-7 in the SM.
Click to expand...

It looks like Chapter 18 has everything you need to know about diagnostic troubleshooting your problem.
 
Don B said:
It looks like Chapter 18 has everything you need to know about diagnostic troubleshooting your problem.
Click to expand...

12. Thanks for the leads. Will check out the book.
 
Use the feeler gauge that came in your toolkit to check the gap on the right front ABS ring to the Magnet.
Also check to see if someone pinched or damaged the wires when removing or replacing the brake calipers.
 
Also clean out the five-way tee. :D

Code 12 is the driver circuit for the front modulator motor, which is internal to the ABS computer. This is a separate code from 4, which is where the system thinks the driver circuit is okay and the motor itself is broken.

Barring a problem with the wiring harness and given that this didn't crop up until your incident with the battery, my money would be on the ABS unit having been damaged.

--Mark
 
Blrfl said:
Barring a problem with the wiring harness and given that this didn't crop up until your incident with the battery, my money would be on the ABS unit having been damaged.

--Mark
Click to expand...

Do the ECU and ABS unit not have protection against reverse polarity? That's so easy to do (reverse polarity protection) that I can't imagine them not having it.
 
Don B said:
Do the ECU and ABS unit not have protection against reverse polarity?
Click to expand...

The ABS unit has three supply lines, one to power the computer and two for the modulator motors. The computer is probably protected against reverse polarity (also why it survived at all), but the modulator motor circuits probably aren't. The components required to do it exhibit a property called forward voltage drop, where the voltage that comes out isn't as much as what went in. This is just fine if you're taking 12V and converting it down to 5 to run the computer, but it isn't something you want in-line with the motors.

--Mark
 
If you're looking at the FI codes, then #2 is a MAP sensor error. Usually this turns out to be a plugged or disconnected line on the 5-way vacuum T and not actually a bad sensor.
 
Blrfl said:
Also clean out the five-way tee. :D

Code 12 is the driver circuit for the front modulator motor, which is internal to the ABS computer. This is a separate code from 4, which is where the system thinks the driver circuit is okay and the motor itself is broken.

Barring a problem with the wiring harness and given that this didn't crop up until your incident with the battery, my money would be on the ABS unit having been damaged.

--Mark
Click to expand...

Tend to agree. Which makes me think that as winter descends on NJ it's a great time to start shopping for a Goldwing. Or, more likely I will just change the brake pads that now look slightly thicker than sandpaper, swap the fluids and just keep riding it as a non ABS for another 10k trouble free miles....:think1::think1::think1:
 
You could probably replace the ABS unit with a salvaged one for well under $200, which is a small fraction of a Gold Wing and doesn't come with any obligations to dine at Dairy Queen. :)

--Mark
 
Blrfl said:
You could probably replace the ABS unit with a salvaged one for well under $200, which is a small fraction of a Gold Wing and doesn't come with any obligations to dine at Dairy Queen. :)

--Mark
Click to expand...

Hey Mark, what's wrong with DQ Blizzards? That's one of my vices, every now and then, I have a real weakness for those.
 
Don B said:
Hey Mark, what's wrong with DQ Blizzards? That's one of my vices, every now and then, I have a real weakness for those.
Click to expand...

Nothing. I wrote that to see if Joe was listening. We used to give him a lot of grief about that during his Wing days.

--Mark
 
wjbertrand said:
If you're looking at the FI codes, then #2 is a MAP sensor error. Usually this turns out to be a plugged or disconnected line on the 5-way vacuum T and not actually a bad sensor.
Click to expand...

I think you posted this reply to the wrong thread. There's another thread here related to FI error code #2.
 
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