All I have.....
The splined connector can only fit in one position on the shaft - for easier access, lay the bike down on the left/gear lever side. Mine was filthy down there due to the gear shaft oil seal leaking.......
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Accessing the shifter linkage
- Thread starter skinl19
- Start date
All I have.....
The splined connector can only fit in one position on the shaft - for easier access, lay the bike down on the left/gear lever side. Mine was filthy down there due to the gear shaft oil seal leaking.......
CYYJ
Michael
It's not a great photo, but it's the only one I have in my library. My ST 1100 is in Europe at the moment and I am in Canada.
Shift Linkage
Thanks guys!
Mad, as bad, as sad, as I can be... not at anyone, or anything, thing but me!
I just snapped the tie rod on this linkage, (it went very quickly like cheese
) in trying to make an adjustment!. I think that's what is called, an adjustment too far! Please don't make me explain how.....it's just called a 'cockup', I made a stupid school kid mistake, and too embarrassed to say. My school teachers would have said, "He doesn't pay attention in class!" or, "His mind keeps wandering off on something else!". Any UK guys out there have a spare, for sale, hanging around, please. I might just walk barefoot to collect, as a form of self penance for my stupidity? I see them on *bay but they mostly look crudy, and we all know what we don't want, don't we?
I just snapped the tie rod on this linkage, (it went very quickly like cheese) in trying to make an adjustment!. I think that's what is called, an adjustment too far! Please don't make me explain how.....it's just called a 'cockup', I made a stupid school kid mistake, and too embarrassed to say. My school teachers would have said, "He doesn't pay attention in class!" or, "His mind keeps wandering off on something else!". Any UK guys out there have a spare, for sale, hanging around, please. I might just walk barefoot to collect, as a form of self penance for my stupidity? I see them on *bay but they mostly look crudy, and we all know what we don't want, don't we?Attachments
Is that the left-hand-threaded end?
edit Yes. Loosen both ends and spin the shaft to adjust as needed.
Are you aware that the nut on the spline link is left handed? nut = item #15 spline link = item #3 At least the linkshaft is still available from Honda. About $5 USD. Don't know about GB prices..
www.partsfish.com
I used to work with a guy and one of his sayings was that 75% of maintenance problems were maintenance induced.
Are you aware that the nut on the spline link is left handed? nut = item #15 spline link = item #3 At least the linkshaft is still available from Honda. About $5 USD. Don't know about GB prices..
1999 Honda ST1100AAC Pedal
Shop online for OEM Pedal parts that fit your 1999 Honda ST1100AAC, search all our OEM Parts or call at 800-964-1882
www.partsfish.com
I used to work with a guy and one of his sayings was that 75% of maintenance problems were maintenance induced.
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Cheap enough?
HONDA ST1100 PAN EUROPEAN GEAR LEVER 1992-1996 (STOCK 605) | eBay
Whether it’s Aprilia, Cagiva, Derbi, Ducati, Gilera, Honda, Kawasaki, KTM, MV Augusta, Piaggio, Suzuki, Triumph, Vespa, Yamaha, or pretty much any other make of motorbike, we’re likely to have the right used spares for you!
www.ebay.co.uk
I am now! Thanks to Ron, below, who answered first. Thanks RON
Truth is, I didn't know at the time and I haven't checked yet. However, I have endeavoured to remove said broken tie rod and I'm wondering if someone knows the thread size and pitch of both ends? They may be opposite and identical, left and right threaded, or different altogether. I just don't know.? Please feel free to fill in the blanks on my photo and repost for the whole world to learn from my idiot mistake. I might just 'find', a local machine shop (read...handy old-timers in sheds and garages which you now have to hunt for around here,) and ask them to knock one out on their tea break. As I said, *ebay has plenty but look so manky from pictures posted. A fresh, clean, brand-new, hand made, british engineered, toolshop/shed produced product, has got to be worth at least £10 worth of biscuits for tea breaks? Well....er....that's what I'm hoping for. Over to you guys, anyone know the thread sizes and pitch please? CheersAttachments
Yes, price is fair too and thanks for the heads up, but as I say, they all look so manky on *bay and elsewhere, and the sellers nowadays are all saying, "LOOK at what you are buying. It's up to you to be sure it's what you want"...NO RETURNS ACCEPTED!, blah blah. Hence I'm just trying a local, have one made first, if I can, approach. Cheers.Cheap enough?
HONDA ST1100 PAN EUROPEAN GEAR LEVER 1992-1996 (STOCK 605) | eBay
Whether it’s Aprilia, Cagiva, Derbi, Ducati, Gilera, Honda, Kawasaki, KTM, MV Augusta, Piaggio, Suzuki, Triumph, Vespa, Yamaha, or pretty much any other make of motorbike, we’re likely to have the right used spares for you!www.ebay.co.uk
Are you aware that the nut on the spline link is left handed? nut = item #15 spline link = item #3 At least the linkshaft is still available from Honda. About $5 USD. Don't know about GB prices..
1999 Honda ST1100AAC Pedal
Shop online for OEM Pedal parts that fit your 1999 Honda ST1100AAC, search all our OEM Parts or call at 800-964-1882
Handy link this one thankyou. I have just learnt the correct names for the parts that I usually call a "wiggly bit" or, "the bit that hangs down" on the "bobble wobble"!
If you spray grease on the Heim joints let them sit overnight, then wipe them down in the morning to keep the dust from accumulating outside and migrating into the joint.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Assuming the parts listing is accurate, the nut is listed as a 6mm nut so the rod threads are as well.
Judging by your photo it looks like a coarse thread, so that would make it a 6mm x 1.0 thread. The other end being the same but left-hand thread.
Any place that has the ability to make one will also have the ability to measure the thread pitch so don't worry about it, just bring it to them and let them do their thing.
Thanks guys for the responses again. I have since separated some of the stuck together items by performing a few, heating, and quick, cold-water-quenching cycles, over the kitchen stove and sink.
The nuts are still jammed solid but the 'heim joints' 
(a new term for me!) are as free as a bird...
The tie rod still stuck with the nuts on it is bin/trash worthy and I have since have checked with one local old timer, that the threads are confirmed as M6 1mm. Afternoon well spent. Thanks everybody.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
I found 'rose joint' being used...... the 'heim joints'
(Isn't Heim a manufacturer of suspension link and tie-rod joints...?)
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
The first two manufacturers of spherical joints, or spherical bearings, were HG Heim Company and Rose Bearings LTD. Because they completely dominated the market they became known as Heim Joints or Rose Joints. Which reference is used depended largely on where you were. Whichever manufacturer's product was the dominant one in a given market determined what name was used.
Update:
I have sourced a basic metric tap and die set and one x metric 6mm left hand die. Also some mild steel x 6mm rod. Have cut rod to length, as near as 10cm (100mm) as possible and generously threaded both ends at least 20mm from end of bar.
Now to refit.... I have checked and double checked that there is no cut out, or, exact match, on the gearbox spline, to the rod linkage bracket. I can orient the rod linkage bracket (the bit that connects to the spline of the gearbox) anywhere I like, but I have found that I need to keep access to its locking bolt clear, so this literally dictates where to situate it on the spline. The open side of that pinched spline connector is between 5 and 6 on a clock face, looking towards the back of the bike. Too far either way and I cannot get any access to lock the bracket off, on the spline. So, that's decided. I have found that I need to keep the access to the locking bolt clear, so this literally dictates where to situate it on the spline. Yes I am repeating myself.
To the other side of the bike. I have refit gearshift lever, loose fit for now because I'm having trouble bringing both heim connectors towards each other to enable me to insert the rod and thread them up, AND get correct pedal height of the gear shift pedal.
Q. Does anyone know if this has a torque setting - the gearshift lever mechanism - to frame, nut and bolt, that also holds the wire frame for the various rubber, down pipes, from the engine area?
Whilst I can guess, from my own pictures, how much either end of the rod gets threaded into the heim connectors, can somebody please clarify.
Q. Is it okay to take up all, or, any of the slack, in the gear box spline?
I'm sure the answer is right in front of me and with a little trial and error, I'll pop it on in a jiffy, but it would help to know the answers to the above. If anybody happens to know. I know that adjustment to gearshift pedal height is easy when it's all connected, but that is where I am at, having trouble getting it connected!
If anyone would like to say how they would go about doing this, feel free to express any idea. My mind is open! Cheers.
Attach files
I have sourced a basic metric tap and die set and one x metric 6mm left hand die. Also some mild steel x 6mm rod. Have cut rod to length, as near as 10cm (100mm) as possible and generously threaded both ends at least 20mm from end of bar.
Now to refit.... I have checked and double checked that there is no cut out, or, exact match, on the gearbox spline, to the rod linkage bracket. I can orient the rod linkage bracket (the bit that connects to the spline of the gearbox) anywhere I like, but I have found that I need to keep access to its locking bolt clear, so this literally dictates where to situate it on the spline. The open side of that pinched spline connector is between 5 and 6 on a clock face, looking towards the back of the bike. Too far either way and I cannot get any access to lock the bracket off, on the spline. So, that's decided. I have found that I need to keep the access to the locking bolt clear, so this literally dictates where to situate it on the spline. Yes I am repeating myself.
To the other side of the bike. I have refit gearshift lever, loose fit for now because I'm having trouble bringing both heim connectors towards each other to enable me to insert the rod and thread them up, AND get correct pedal height of the gear shift pedal.
Q. Does anyone know if this has a torque setting - the gearshift lever mechanism - to frame, nut and bolt, that also holds the wire frame for the various rubber, down pipes, from the engine area?
Whilst I can guess, from my own pictures, how much either end of the rod gets threaded into the heim connectors, can somebody please clarify.
Q. Is it okay to take up all, or, any of the slack, in the gear box spline?
I'm sure the answer is right in front of me and with a little trial and error, I'll pop it on in a jiffy, but it would help to know the answers to the above. If anybody happens to know.
I know that adjustment to gearshift pedal height is easy when it's all connected, but that is where I am at, having trouble getting it connected!If anyone would like to say how they would go about doing this, feel free to express any idea. My mind is open! Cheers.
Attach files