Aerostich R3 Hall Pass / Heated Gear

[sennister]

I just ordered a new custom R3 today and while I hope I won't need to run it much longer, I was wondering how people tend to run their heated gear.

I have a Gerbing jacket and set of Gloves that I run off the same clip on Gerbing Heat Controller. I know that the R3 has the Hall Pass which is an opening to pass the power lead through to plug it in. Of course the Hall Pass is on the left side where I normally cross over to the right side as my Powerlet port is below the right storage pocket on the bike. I can still cross over and I bought a quick disconnect extension while at Aerostich to give me a bit more room. Normally I have always clipped the heat controller on my right waist Velcro adjustment tab on the jacket. While it was on my right side I could easily reach across with my left hand to adjust the temp which I find I do quite often. More so as you are tweaking the heat as it goes from a cool early morning to later in the day as it heats up. I asked the people at Stich and they said most people keep the controller in the pocket that the Hall Pass has access to. That is fine but it wouldn't be easily accessible.

What do others to do control heated gear with an Aerostich 1 piece suit?

 

[dduelin]

I use the Gerbing battery harness and run the power female plug out from under the left front corner of the seat. I clip the Gerbing dual controller onto the outside of the glove holder on the left chest and the jacket/glove wires pass into the Stich through the left hip zipper and the power cable goes across the top of the left thigh to the battery harness. I can zip the hip zipper closed when needed and the controller is handy to my left hand for adjustment.

 

[Kevin_56]

Wireless controller on top of the clutch reservoir. I wear a 2 pc stitch, so just plug the receiver cable into the 12v power from bike. Easy to adjust the dual channel heat controller in that location.

 

[sennister]

I use the Gerbing battery harness and run the power female plug out from under the left front corner of the seat. I clip the Gerbing dual controller onto the outside of the glove holder on the left chest and the jacket/glove wires pass into the Stich through the left hip zipper and the power cable goes across the top of the left thigh to the battery harness. I can zip the hip zipper closed when needed and the controller is handy to my left hand for adjustment.

Ahh the glove holder. That could work. Like I said I picked up an extension cable when I was there thinking it might come in handy. I was wondering if I should ask if they could sew in a loop somewhere on the lower chest area but I like the idea of trying the glove holder. The controller has the belt clip case so it will clip on there just fine.

 

[sennister]

Wireless controller on top of the clutch reservoir. I wear a 2 pc stitch, so just plug the receiver cable into the 12v power from bike. Easy to adjust the dual channel heat controller in that location.

I was thinking about something there by moving the temp control to the bike but that location won't work. I have my MCCruise controller there with switches above that for the PIAA driving and fog lights. I did think worst case going to some form of panel mount heating controller. On my last 1300 I had hard mounted a 12V DC Motor Controller for regulating the temp of my heated grips. That was an option and I will keep that as a backup plan if the glove pocket doesn't seem to work for some reason.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Well, I’ve ridden with an RC 2pc for 25 years and always run the electrical jacket or vest from a BMW/Powerlet type socket and waterproof toggle switch hard-mounted in the left Pocket Fairing above my left knee. That way I can step off and on without the cord getting in the way (and stay hooked up when fueling, getting stuff out of the saddlebag/topcase, etc). And use my non-throttle hand when underway. I now have the W&S wireless controller, mounted on the MC reservoir, again left hand accessible. FWIW

Edit: if it makes sense to make holes in the tupperware for functionality AND reliability just do it. I once (~’88) made the mistake of running an SAE cord/connector for my Eclipse Yukon electric vest out between the saddle and tank. On a long trip the cord failed (pinched!). And I really needed that heat. The last time I ever juryrigged any critical farkle.

John

 

[SMSW]

When I got my bike, I installed 3 powerlet sockets, one below each glovebox (outside, not inside the boxes), and one in the cover centered above the steering axis. When I got my heated jacket, I brought the power lead - Warm n Safe's wire comes out of the left pocket - out thru the velcro-closed port on the left side of my RoadCrafter suit (access to your pants pockets). I used an extension from my hardwired controller to power up the jacket. Shortly thereafter, I cut out a piece of metal and fastened it to the right hand brake reservoir (it looks a lot like the one that comes with Oxford heated grips, except Oxford's is designed to go on the left side). The heat troller is velcro'ed and zip tied to this metal tab. I then disconnected the circuit from the Left powerlet, and connected the output from the heat troller to the powerlet. I now have a controlled powerlet that I plug my jacket into - and everything is on the left side of the bike. If this is clear as mud, let me know and I'll take some pictures.

 

[skipcurt]

I've had my Gerbings setup for years but it was with a 2pc setup so it could just drop out the bottom of the jacket and plug in to the controller easily. When I got my 1pc Stich I recognized a problem right away. I made an extension that connects to the controller (which hangs from my tankbag handle) and goes into the pocket through the access hole and up to the jacket port. Worked out very well and when I'm not using it I can just store it in the pocket.

Skip