Anyone ever replace ST1100 handlebars...

VinceDee

VinceDee

R.I.P. - 2019/12/21
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Joined
Jun 24, 2008
Messages
55
Location
Berkeley, California
Bike
2003 ST1300A
...with other 7/8" bars?

I know about heli-bars and risers, but isn't it possible to just replace the stock bars with regular bars?

If someone has done it, how did it work out? pics?
 
Quite a few people replaced them with bars off of a BMW K75, many years ago. And here's a thread on my-mc.com regarding the subject:

http://www.my-mc.com/messages/1/104654.html?1216732514

Almost any 7/8" bars will work. You might have to remove the pin in the left and right switch pods, or drill a matching hole in the bar.

The real advantage of the helibars is that they let you "try out" an almost infinite variety of bar styles. You could spend a lot of money (though maybe not as much as the helis) trying out different bars until you find one you like.
 
Back in the mid 90ties people would put the bar from the VF1100S Sabre on the ST.... (part # 53110-MB3-000 - $147.86)

Remember , that if you care for the h-bar plastic shroud it more likely won't fit anymore.....

Cheers,
 
STick has chrome bars from a 64 Bonneville, narrower and lower than STock.

Heard someone say the other day that the 1300 has holes in the top triple clamp to add risers so 7/8 tube bars can be used there, too. Can anyone confirm this?
 
It does indeed have holes in the triple clamp. See parts 17, 14 and 19 on this fiche:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...bs-2004-handlebar-top-bridge/o/m2531sch306877

Whether a standard set of risers will correctly fit these holes I do not yet know. The bolts for the 1300 are listed as "BOLT, SPECIAL (8MM)"

Looking at the schematic for the 1100:

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...bs-2001-handlebar-top-bridge/o/m2526sch102694

The nuts (part #25) that attach the handlebar clamps are also 8mm.

What I don't know is the diameter of the non-threaded shaft on the two components, nor the relative thickness of the triple tree on each bike.

Worst case, one could certaily have a set of handlebar clamps machined to fit those holes, if nothing off the shelf works.
 
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I used Gold Wing handlebars. My previous bike was 1983 Gold Wing. It came with Kawasaki buckhorn bars. I changed them to one for GW. When I sold GW, guy asked me to but buckhorn back and I can keep GW bars. I like to ride more upright (62 young) and I was happy to do. I had Gen-Mar ? risers on top of Laminar 2? risers. It was good enough, but on hard rides I had feeling of a twist in the risers and I do not like suspecting my equipment. You can see results in my album.
 
FlyingPig said:
I used Gold Wing handlebars.
Click to expand...

This is interesting. Those are '83 Wing bars? Do you have any idea how far back and up they are from stock ST bars? Did they just bolt right on? Did you have to reroute cables?

 
RE: BMW bars...

This is my first try at uploading attachments, so if they don't show up, I apologize for this meaningless ramble.

I got the bars from another forum member - they came on his bike. The control "pin holes" were already drilled. The bars are a few thousandths smaller than the Honda bars - I put a couple pieces of tape under the control switch pods to take up "looseness". The inserts for the weights (vibration dampers) were also in the handlebars, but I had to add a nylon spacer between the handlebar ends and the screw-on dampers - the damper screw was too long.

Cables are rerouted: Disconnect the brake/clutch microswitches. The brake/clutch cylinders can be passed through the fork without disconnecting the fluid lines. The wiring harness for the right handlebar side must be disconnected under the "false tank"; then passed through the fork with the brake cylinder; then reconnected. (It'll make sense when you see it.)

The plastic piece you see in the pic is "modified" from another Honda bike - don't know which one, came with the bars. The key fits correctly, and doesn't look "too" bad.

Hope this helps.


'91 ST1100
'05 Road Star 1700
 

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My experiences are pretty much the same as R.Rider right down to trimming the bar shelter, as a matter of fact this was the first thing I did on the 1100, getting the damper rods back into the K75 bars was a bit of a challenge
 

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I've often wondered about putting the ST1300 bars on the ST1100 since they look so much 'dressier' than the bare ST1100 bars and appear to be easier to put risers, etc. on. Looks like it would just take a machined top plate to make it work. Anybody tried that yet?
 
I'm actually considering the reverse, Phil. I may try mounting my helibars to my 1300, because I want more pull back (NOT more height, necessarily) than either the MCL or Heli risers offer.

The stock ST1300 mountng plate attaches to the triple clamp with 2 bolts through the upper clamp, just as the 1100 bar clamps do. I have no idea if the holes are the same size, or spacing between them the same, however.
 
electrajoe said:
Why, in a few hundere miles you get used to the stock bar.

"When Honda made the ST1100, he saw it was good ..."
Click to expand...

+1. Anyone contemplating more pullback than the stock bars should spend a day on a Gsxr for reference, the ST stock is one comfortable bike.
 
Yeah, comfort is very relative. I am good for about 20 minutes on my buddy's Haybus. Of course, I can go 60 miles in that time:) I just can't contort myself into that position. Things go numb...
 
For me its just the right balance. My CBR1000F and VFR800 were both just a little too aggressive - I could go 400 miles but it hurt. I honestly don't know how some guys ride race replicas all day with no complaints, I wish I could do that..
 
Dang it! I can not find it now, but I remember reading that someone on the forum changed the bars out with a set of Dirt Bike bars, had pics too. They liked them and for the price, I would not mind giving it a try sometime.
 
RainyRider said:
RE: BMW bars...

This is my first try at uploading attachments, so if they don't show up, I apologize for this meaningless ramble.

I got the bars from another forum member - they came on his bike. The control "pin holes" were already drilled. The bars are a few thousandths smaller than the Honda bars - I put a couple pieces of tape under the control switch pods to take up "looseness". The inserts for the weights (vibration dampers) were also in the handlebars, but I had to add a nylon spacer between the handlebar ends and the screw-on dampers - the damper screw was too long.

Cables are rerouted: Disconnect the brake/clutch microswitches. The brake/clutch cylinders can be passed through the fork without disconnecting the fluid lines. The wiring harness for the right handlebar side must be disconnected under the "false tank"; then passed through the fork with the brake cylinder; then reconnected. (It'll make sense when you see it.)

The plastic piece you see in the pic is "modified" from another Honda bike - don't know which one, came with the bars. The key fits correctly, and doesn't look "too" bad.

Hope this helps.


'91 ST1100
'05 Road Star 1700
Click to expand...

Glad to see my old bars in action!! Your 1" risers with the stock bars work great for me. How do you like your new ridding position?
Don, near Placerville Ca
 
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