Battery choice

skipcurt said:
So can anyone tell me why one battery is $78, one is $171 and the other $147? What the heck is the difference other than the CCA? Will the two higher priced ones last twice as long? I'm beginning to think just get the $78 battery again and forget about it for two years.

Skip
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Chinese vs USA mfg. Stay away from AGM Scorpions.

I have been down this road several times. ST1300s have small battery compartments they are much smaller than that of a ST1100. I never had a cranking issue with my ST1100s in 12 years. My ST1300, on the other hand, has had multiple low battery issues due to inadequate capacity from AGM Yuasa and Scorpion batteries. So far, the best AGM battery I have found for this bike is this one with 230 CCA, it will last about three years here in the hot South:

http://www.batteryweb.com/motorcycle...m?model=PTZ14S

I have had very good luck with these.

If you are wanting to start her up consistently in cold weather, stay with AGM. Otherwise, my buddies who ride sport bikes, in warm weather, like lithium batteries, which is what my Ducati is getting when the time comes.
 
My experience with gel batteries is that they do not die slow deaths like the old acid filled batteries. On these one day they are cranking, the next day they are dead to the world.
 
OK a description of CCA and why it's important.

First. If you ride in somewhere warm all year round this probably won't affect you.

What does CCA mean?

CCA stands for Cold Cranking Amps


So what are Cold Cranking Amps?

Cold Cranking Amps are the numbers of amperes a lead-acid battery at 0? F (−18 ?C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery)


Why is this important?

The number of cold cranking amps you need depends on your vehicle and where you live, specifically how cold it is where you live. The two factors are that the colder an engine is, the more power it takes to turn the engine over to get it started. It has all that cold, sluggish oil to contend with. The other factor is that the chemical reaction in the battery that creates electrical energy is less efficient in the cold. So the colder it gets, more power is needed, but the available power drops.

So if you live where it’s cold, you need a battery with more cold cranking amps than you do where it's moderate or hot. You should always get at least as many cold cranking amps as the manufacturer recommends, but may want to upgrade if you live where it gets really cold.

An important note: Batteries may also list the Cranking Amps – CA – number. It is the Cold Cranking Amps – or CCA – that is the important number here. CCA is the number to use in your comparisons.


Does Heat affect the battery?

Yes it does. If you live in an area with large (ish) temperature swings the hot summers will shorten the battery life.



The general rule of thumb is if you live in a colder climate or somewhere which gets cold in winter, get a battery with the highest possible CCA rating.
 
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Just yesterday [9-24-15], I was looking for a backup battery, as mine is 4+ years old. I like the Yuasa OEM battery. The prices are so crazy as in High/and not so Low. But, I called the auto parts National Chain Store-O'Reilly's and wow....they quoted me a OEM Yuasa for the ST1300 @ $89.99 The Honda Dealer wanted $169.99 So- I know where I'm getting my next battery at......
 
skipcurt said:
So can anyone tell me why one battery is $78, one is $171 and the other $147? What the heck is the difference other than the CCA? Will the two higher priced ones last twice as long? I'm beginning to think just get the $78 battery again and forget about it for two years.

Skip
Click to expand...

purity of the lead, the amount of lead, the shape of the lead, the dealer network, activated or shipped dry with acid, bolts all have a bearing on cost
 
jmcarruth said:
Chinese vs USA mfg. Stay away from AGM Scorpions.

I have been down this road several times. ST1300s have small battery compartments they are much smaller than that of a ST1100. I never had a cranking issue with my ST1100s in 12 years. My ST1300, on the other hand, has had multiple low battery issues due to inadequate capacity from AGM Yuasa and Scorpion batteries. So far, the best AGM battery I have found for this bike is this one with 230 CCA, it will last about three years here in the hot South:

http://www.batteryweb.com/motorcycle...m?model=PTZ14S

I have had very good luck with these.

If you are wanting to start her up consistently in cold weather, stay with AGM. Otherwise, my buddies who ride sport bikes, in warm weather, like lithium batteries, which is what my Ducati is getting when the time comes.
Click to expand...


The link above is dead. Can you please post the correct link.
 
st1300doug said:
Just yesterday [9-24-15], I was looking for a backup battery, as mine is 4+ years old. I like the Yuasa OEM battery. The prices are so crazy as in High/and not so Low. But, I called the auto parts National Chain Store-O'Reilly's and wow....they quoted me a OEM Yuasa for the ST1300 @ $89.99 The Honda Dealer wanted $169.99 So- I know where I'm getting my next battery at......
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Doug do you have a part number? The only thing I see on their web page is a etz14s branded "super start" but I get dumped to their web store catalog with my zipcode. Yuasa comes up goose egg on their site.
 
JQL said:
What does CCA mean?

CCA stands for Cold Cranking Amps


So what are Cold Cranking Amps?

Cold Cranking Amps are the numbers of amperes a lead-acid battery at 0? F (−18 ?C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery).
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Does this definition also fit AGM batteries?
 
I called....and never asked for a part #. My battery turned out was okay. I live in Columbia, Mo.- so....good luck.
 
Don B said:
Does this definition also fit AGM batteries?
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Yes. AGM is a lead acid battery. It just has an Absorbed Glass Mat between the plates instead of free liquid acid electrolyte.
 
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jmcarruth said:
Chinese vs USA mfg. Stay away from AGM Scorpions.
.
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Darn! Which someone had told me that 7 years and 130K+ miles ago. I'd have never put that crap Scorpion battery in my bike. I'm gonna get rid of that POS just as soon as it quits on me!



-Jeff
 
skipcurt said:
I'm beginning to think just get the $78 battery again and forget about it for two years.
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If you use your motorcycle daily, or at least quite frequently (or have a tender attached) the cheaper part might serve quite well...
For working folks like me who are happy to get their rig out into fresh air once a month at max, a low price battery soon shows its flaws...

Oldbikefixr said:
What is the 'usual' battery failure indication?
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"Normally" you'll sense that the starter doesn't turn over as quickly anymore... unless the plates short due to sulphating, then its a sudden dead... (but prior to this the casing starts to show some bulges...)

JQL said:
If you live in an area with large (ish) temperature swings the hot summers will shorten the battery life.
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But isn't engine heat not always effecting the battery??
In both, 1100 and 1300 the battery sits in a poorly vented space right behind the engine...
 
ST1100Y said:
But isn't engine heat not always effecting the battery??
In both, 1100 and 1300 the battery sits in a poorly vented space right behind the engine...
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Not sure about that. It's just a fact that hot summers and cold winters don't do batteries much good.
 
JQL said:
It's just a fact that hot summers and cold winters don't do batteries much good.
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Yes, the cells don't cope well with wide temperature changes, but fail interestingly when its getting warmer again (spring)...
And the batteries avail today are generally not as durable as like in the 90ies... prior RoHS and that...
 
Only battery I will ever buy again is Odyssey batteries. They are the best and well worth the money. Had one last over 4 years on a police bike with tons of abuse and countless times it was run completely dead. Factory battery lasted only 18 months!
 
My '98 1100 went from normal to OFF for the entire bike electrical system while riding down the interstate, on the second day of a trip, with no prior indication of weakness. As the second owner with no knowledge of what or when was present for a battery and not having much choice what was put in on an emergency basis, I conclude that replacing the battery every couple of years is a good thing, cheaper than the towing and inconvenience of being stranded out of town.
Oldbikefixr said:
ST1100 question relative to battery failure. What is the 'usual' battery failure indication? Does the starter drag for a few starts...giving you some warning? Or is it a complete surprise....like most modern era cars?
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