Bike will not start and dash lights remain on after key is switched off.

Joined
Jun 17, 2024
Messages
8
Age
52
Location
Westford Massachusetts
Greetings! I have a 2005 ST-1300 that has given me years of reliable fun and service with no issues. I took it for a decent trot a couple days ago (~200 miles) with no issue. A couple rainy days later, I went to go for another ride, and it would not start. The bike has a new battery and cranks over vigorously. One thing that I noted was that the lights in the dash remained on after I switched the key off. I dug into the battery and disconnected it while I trouble shoot. I also noticed that when I switch it on, I do not hear the usual hum/whirring of what I presume was the fuel pump. There is just cold dead silence when I switch it on. I have the seats and right and left plastic off just behind and below the tank and have a bit more time to diagnose this week. I'm checking here to see if this is a known issue, or if anyone has any ideas or "watchouts" to keep in mind. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Cheers!
 
I’m pretty sure I know what is wrong, but hands are not free to type at the moment, call me on the white courtesy phone and I’ll explain where to look and how to fix it.
Larry
408-513-4098
 
Thank you! It was on the larger connector. Any idea how best to go about replacing this?
I had exactly the same issue on a ride a few hundred miles from home.

The shop I brought it to worked on it right away and eventually found the problem Igofar pointed out. Of course, it took them a little longer to diagnose it since Igofar wasn't there that day
:)

Anyway, they simply bypassed the connector. I'm thinking that the connector is only there for initial assembly purposes so I have no issue with their solution.
 
Yeah I think I'll just go one wire at a time and straight connect this. I dont plan on taking this apart, so there is no need for the connector.

When you’re splicing, and get to the green/ground wire, splice in another length of wire and ground that wire to the frame. That will take some current off the small original wire. I’ve fixed 4 ST1300’s over the years. Three had the same symptoms and the last one was done as a precaution against future failure.

I would look up the pin number, but I let my service manual go with my 1300, a couple of weeks ago.

There was a nice write up on the procedure, along with pictures, but it got lost with the data reset.

John
 
Thank you! It was on the larger connector. Any idea how best to go about replacing this?
This is the greatest 'inconvenience' involving fully faired bikes. It's a pain but you must take all her clothes off periodically and inspect everything.....we won't find a developing problem with a glance.
 
When you’re splicing, and get to the green/ground wire, splice in another length of wire and ground that wire to the frame. That will take some current off the small original wire. I’ve fixed 4 ST1300’s over the years. Three had the same symptoms and the last one was done as a precaution against future failure.

I would look up the pin number, but I let my service manual go with my 1300, a couple of weeks ago.

There was a nice write up on the procedure, along with pictures, but it got lost with the data reset.

John
This is very important. The green wire (ground wire for all the electrical circuits in the front half of the bike) in the corner of that 24 pin connector overheated. Take the "upstream" end of that solid green wire in the male part of the connector and bolt it directly to the frame. There is a convenient hole in the frame close to the headstock already tapped for a 10mm bolt or screw. Use 14 gauge wire with a ring terminal.
 

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This is the greatest 'inconvenience' involving fully faired bikes. It's a pain but you must take all her clothes off periodically and inspect everything.....we won't find a developing problem with a glance.
Great chance to clean it all up! I spent a good amount of time on that this weekend.

When you’re splicing, and get to the green/ground wire, splice in another length of wire and ground that wire to the frame. That will take some current off the small original wire. I’ve fixed 4 ST1300’s over the years. Three had the same symptoms and the last one was done as a precaution against future failure.

I would look up the pin number, but I let my service manual go with my 1300, a couple of weeks ago.

There was a nice write up on the procedure, along with pictures, but it got lost with the data reset.

John
Any idea what gauge wire this is? 18-20 AWG?

This is very important. The green wire (ground wire for all the electrical circuits in the front half of the bike) in the corner of that 24 pin connector overheated. Take the "upstream" end of that solid green wire in the male part of the connector and bolt it directly to the frame. There is a convenient hole in the frame close to the headstock already tapped for a 10mm bolt or screw. Use 14 gauge wire with a ring terminal.
Thank you and will do!
 
I had the same issue and did a big write up, apparently lost now. As described, run a wire from the 24 pin connector to the frame. This provides a secondary ground so that the current doesn't have to go through the yellow connector and the other connector on the left side of the bike.
 
I’m pretty sure I know what is wrong, but hands are not free to type at the moment, call me on the white courtesy phone and I’ll explain where to look and how to fix it.
Larry
408-513-409

Greetings! I have a 2005 ST-1300 that has given me years of reliable fun and service with no issues. I took it for a decent trot a couple days ago (~200 miles) with no issue. A couple rainy days later, I went to go for another ride, and it would not start. The bike has a new battery and cranks over vigorously. One thing that I noted was that the lights in the dash remained on after I switched the key off. I dug into the battery and disconnected it while I trouble shoot. I also noticed that when I switch it on, I do not hear the usual hum/whirring of what I presume was the fuel pump. There is just cold dead silence when I switch it on. I have the seats and right and left plastic off just behind and below the tank and have a bit more time to diagnose this week. I'm checking here to see if this is a known issue, or if anyone has any ideas or "watchouts" to keep in mind. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Cheers!
So I decided to bypass the connector since it was melted. I took my time and went wire by wire, verifying the color/pattern and position in the connector. I went with this approach after doing the first 3 wires as it was apparent crimping each wire together with the original connector in place was going to be tough. The only issue is that when I got to the end, I have one unpaired wire. I have gone back through and double/triple checked but cannot find the downstream side to this one wire. Since I went wire by wire and taped them, I know that I did not mess this up. I've also looked on the downstream (bike) side and do not see this wire. Its blue with a yellow stripe and there are no matches on the bike side. Any idea what this wire could be? Leave it untethered?
 

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So I decided to bypass the connector since it was melted. I took my time and went wire by wire, verifying the color/pattern and position in the connector. I went with this approach after doing the first 3 wires as it was apparent crimping each wire together with the original connector in place was going to be tough. The only issue is that when I got to the end, I have one unpaired wire. I have gone back through and double/triple checked but cannot find the downstream side to this one wire. Since I went wire by wire and taped them, I know that I did not mess this up. I've also looked on the downstream (bike) side and do not see this wire. Its blue with a yellow stripe and there are no matches on the bike side. Any idea what this wire could be? Leave it untethered?
On ABS bikes the Bu/Y does have a matching Bu/Y wire on the downstream side - it goes to the ABS unit. Non ABS bikes have a Bu/Y that dead ends at the melted connector.IMG_0420.jpeg
 
On ABS bikes the Bu/Y does have a matching Bu/Y wire on the downstream side - it goes to the ABS unit. Non ABS bikes have a Bu/Y that dead ends at the melted connector.IMG_0420.jpeg
Thank You! I figured this was the case. I chalked it up to being some feature that I didn't have. I was thinking something from a police bike, but as it turns out, I don't have ABS!! I always thought that I did.
 
Greetings! I have a 2005 ST-1300 that has given me years of reliable fun and service with no issues. I took it for a decent trot a couple days ago (~200 miles) with no issue. A couple rainy days later, I went to go for another ride, and it would not start. The bike has a new battery and cranks over vigorously. One thing that I noted was that the lights in the dash remained on after I switched the key off. I dug into the battery and disconnected it while I trouble shoot. I also noticed that when I switch it on, I do not hear the usual hum/whirring of what I presume was the fuel pump. There is just cold dead silence when I switch it on. I have the seats and right and left plastic off just behind and below the tank and have a bit more time to diagnose this week. I'm checking here to see if this is a known issue, or if anyone has any ideas or "watchouts" to keep in mind. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Cheers!
Looking around for some wood to knock on, but I'm calling this solved. A big THANK YOU to all the folks that helped get me in the right neighborhood and gave me the watchouts. I have all the wires nice and tidy and taped up well. I hit the key and she made happy Honda noises! I took the opportunity to give her a good detailing underneath the plastic. Next up is to detail the plastic, replace some broken clips, and get back to riding.
 
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