Hi can someone put me out of my Misery first Time Ever trying to Bleed breaks, after an hour realised maybe should have been using bleed nipple instead of lower banjo bolt, hour waisted oh well, another hour later finally built pressure after 5000+ squeezes no joke! was on right hand master cylinder was looking to get both calipers pistons out , have new ones were binding, 27;years old no harm, but was told to work on right caliper first & was the one I definitely knew was binding So Finally I could hear what sounded like a Piston Moving next thing heard dripping, Bike in Horse Box little Room noticed Resvouir Empty went around left , & only one Caliper on left came out, So what Gives , ? what Happened? Should I just try squirt some wd40 down sides of calipers force them out seen trick with a Socket that fits just inside them twist ?
Bleeding caliper
- Thread starter BigBrakes
- Start date
Read John Heath's posts in this thread:
www.st-owners.com
You should also go to the blue band atop this page > Articles > ST1300 and search for 'brake'. Read the several articles on brake maintenance.
Sorry I cannot put you out of your misery, but @jfheath's explanations are excellent and should go a long way towards easing your headaches.
1996 ST1100A ABS II: Soft Rear Brake - Root Cause & Bleeding Tips on LBS, Linked Braking System | ST1100-Brakes
Model: 1996 ABS II with Linked Braking System Symptom: Persistent soft rear brake 'pedal' before and after fresh brake fluid flush Forum Members, Hello. I have rebuilt master cylinders and am comfortable with the rebuild process. However, I have not removed & replaced the rear brake master...
You should also go to the blue band atop this page > Articles > ST1300 and search for 'brake'. Read the several articles on brake maintenance.
Sorry I cannot put you out of your misery, but @jfheath's explanations are excellent and should go a long way towards easing your headaches.
ok Thanks , Have figured out a Way Since in theroy using a Socket slightly smaller than pistons inserted with latex/ rubber gloves , squirt wd-40 around Pistons edge using new pistons/seals anyway and Rotate left /right takes few mins but eventually looses up pulls out but can grab with pliers then speed up process, all theory try out in approximately 12 hrs ! Thanks Good night!Read John Heath's posts in this thread:
1996 ST1100A ABS II: Soft Rear Brake - Root Cause & Bleeding Tips on LBS, Linked Braking System | ST1100-Brakes
Model: 1996 ABS II with Linked Braking System Symptom: Persistent soft rear brake 'pedal' before and after fresh brake fluid flush Forum Members, Hello. I have rebuilt master cylinders and am comfortable with the rebuild process. However, I have not removed & replaced the rear brake master...
You should also go to the blue band atop this page > Articles > ST1300 and search for 'brake'. Read the several articles on brake maintenance.
Sorry I cannot put you out of your misery, but @jfheath's explanations are excellent and should go a long way towards easing your headaches.
ST1100Y
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There designated pliers to grab the pistons on their hollow inside to wiggle and pull them without damage in case you need to reuse them...
I have an assorted set of wooden strips to stack into the caliper to rest the free piston on, allowing the stuck one to follow...
Remove one strip, pressurize again, remove another strip, etc... till I'm on my last 3mm piece from where I can pull the pistons...
I do that having the caliper on the bench and the rubber tip of my air-nozzle jammed into the banjo bold bore...
be careful about your little pinkies though, a brake piston loosing suddenly with a "POP!" might easily clip a fingertip off...
For fully seized cases I'll attach a front brake master with a short line, bleed with new fluid, insert above wooden strips...
I have an assorted set of wooden strips to stack into the caliper to rest the free piston on, allowing the stuck one to follow...
Remove one strip, pressurize again, remove another strip, etc... till I'm on my last 3mm piece from where I can pull the pistons...
I do that having the caliper on the bench and the rubber tip of my air-nozzle jammed into the banjo bold bore...
be careful about your little pinkies though, a brake piston loosing suddenly with a "POP!" might easily clip a fingertip off...
For fully seized cases I'll attach a front brake master with a short line, bleed with new fluid, insert above wooden strips...
Thanks for info ended up boiling calipers for 15 min eventually pulled all freeThere designated pliers to grab the pistons on their hollow inside to wiggle and pull them without damage in case you need to reuse them...
I have an assorted set of wooden strips to stack into the caliper to rest the free piston on, allowing the stuck one to follow...
Remove one strip, pressurize again, remove another strip, etc... till I'm on my last 3mm piece from where I can pull the pistons...
I do that having the caliper on the bench and the rubber tip of my air-nozzle jammed into the banjo bold bore...
be careful about your little pinkies though, a brake piston loosing suddenly with a "POP!" might easily clip a fingertip off...
For fully seized cases I'll attach a front brake master with a short line, bleed with new fluid, insert above wooden strips...