All the parts are very well manufactured. The distinguishing feature of this setup is that it shuts off if you hit the front brake. The instructions are mediocre with some serious shortcomings.
Craftsmanship: 10
Materials: unknown, it's brand new.
Design: 7, it would be a 10 except for some annoyances with the support clamp fit (see below).
Function: unknown, my planned ride was aborted due to mechanical issue. Will report back later.
While in parts, it's difficult to tell how the device should be oriented on the machine. The instructions don't help because there is no picture of the fully installed device. For that reason, it helps before you try to install it if you sit down and loosely piece it together in your lap. Knowing what the end product should look like will help you install it.
Like all throttle locks, the device works by applying enough pressure to the throttle sleeve to prevent it from snapping back on its own spring power. Some work at the bar end. This one works at the other side of the grip, so it is activated and deactivated with the thumb.
There is a support ring. It's the part that clamps to the handlebar and does not move with the throttle. It's not supposed to touch the matter cylinder. YMMV, but there isn't enough room on the handlebar for the support ring to fit without touching the master cylinder. Moreover, it only fits in one orientation because of the acorn nut on the bottom of the lever pivot. Also, the clamp had to be run under the wires of the right control set, which puts some tension on them. A better design would have had a channel through which the wires could pass. None of that seemed to be a problem for me, but it does make me wonder about design quality. For two hundred bucks, I think they could have made a pass-through for the wires. I may use the original part as a template to make one with a deeper lower half so I can drill a pass through.
If you have flat, hard grips, installation will be easy if you carefully and slowly follow the directions. If you have grips with a palm swell or soft material, then read on. However, the following steps are not part of the manufacturer's instructions and the fact they work for me doesn't mean they will work for you. A failure of your throttle lock could get you killed. I make no warranty this is a safe installation. Use at your own discretion and risk.
The kit comes with four plastic rings of various thicknesses. Place the thickest ring over the grip closest to the master cylinder. That's a temporary shim. Next, you have to identify the correct ring for installation. Start with the thinnest walled ring. You fit it over the grip just outside the temporary shim. By outside, I mean toward the bar end, not over the shim. The correctly sized ring for your grip will have a gap around 1/8 of an inch. If there is no gap but no overlap, cut about 1/8 inch off the end with diagonal cutters and that's your ring. If there is overlap, try the next thickest ring. Repeat until you get the right ring. I used the second thinnest ring.
The plastic rings have canals in them. The canals run perpendicular to the circumference of the ring. Those canals are for set screws to push the ring into your grip to create friction for the part of the throttle lock that moves with the throttle grip.
Identify the sleeve that fits over the plastic ring. It's the one with the set screws on the perimeter, each facing the center of the circle.
When you look inside the sleeve, you'll notice it's about twice as deep as the plastic ring is wide. That would work fine with a hard, flat, grip. But, when you have a palm swell or squishy grip material, the plastic ring slips into that extra space in the sleeve when you turn down the set screws. That's very annoying because you have to back out all the set screws, remove the sleeve, readjust the ring, and try again.
So here's the big secret: take the thinnest available plastic ring available other than the one you selected earlier as the right size to install. Replace the temporary shim with that one. You should have two plastic rings on the grip nearest the MC. The one you sized to your grip should be the outermost of the two. Having two rings doesn't create a problem because the sleeve is deep enough for two rings.
Line up the canals with one canal on top. When you fit the sleeve over the rings, apply pressure toward the master cylinder while you tension the set screws and everything should work nicely. If a set screw goes in more than half way, the ring probably shifted on you. If it's on the ring, it will feel very solid very fast.
If you are very particular, you may want to sand the shim. It depends on the shape of your grips. If I have to do it again for any reason, I think I will put electric tape around the shim so it can't expand and allow the installed ring to shift. I don't think it's going anywhere at this point, though.
Craftsmanship: 10
Materials: unknown, it's brand new.
Design: 7, it would be a 10 except for some annoyances with the support clamp fit (see below).
Function: unknown, my planned ride was aborted due to mechanical issue. Will report back later.
While in parts, it's difficult to tell how the device should be oriented on the machine. The instructions don't help because there is no picture of the fully installed device. For that reason, it helps before you try to install it if you sit down and loosely piece it together in your lap. Knowing what the end product should look like will help you install it.
Like all throttle locks, the device works by applying enough pressure to the throttle sleeve to prevent it from snapping back on its own spring power. Some work at the bar end. This one works at the other side of the grip, so it is activated and deactivated with the thumb.
There is a support ring. It's the part that clamps to the handlebar and does not move with the throttle. It's not supposed to touch the matter cylinder. YMMV, but there isn't enough room on the handlebar for the support ring to fit without touching the master cylinder. Moreover, it only fits in one orientation because of the acorn nut on the bottom of the lever pivot. Also, the clamp had to be run under the wires of the right control set, which puts some tension on them. A better design would have had a channel through which the wires could pass. None of that seemed to be a problem for me, but it does make me wonder about design quality. For two hundred bucks, I think they could have made a pass-through for the wires. I may use the original part as a template to make one with a deeper lower half so I can drill a pass through.
If you have flat, hard grips, installation will be easy if you carefully and slowly follow the directions. If you have grips with a palm swell or soft material, then read on. However, the following steps are not part of the manufacturer's instructions and the fact they work for me doesn't mean they will work for you. A failure of your throttle lock could get you killed. I make no warranty this is a safe installation. Use at your own discretion and risk.
The kit comes with four plastic rings of various thicknesses. Place the thickest ring over the grip closest to the master cylinder. That's a temporary shim. Next, you have to identify the correct ring for installation. Start with the thinnest walled ring. You fit it over the grip just outside the temporary shim. By outside, I mean toward the bar end, not over the shim. The correctly sized ring for your grip will have a gap around 1/8 of an inch. If there is no gap but no overlap, cut about 1/8 inch off the end with diagonal cutters and that's your ring. If there is overlap, try the next thickest ring. Repeat until you get the right ring. I used the second thinnest ring.
The plastic rings have canals in them. The canals run perpendicular to the circumference of the ring. Those canals are for set screws to push the ring into your grip to create friction for the part of the throttle lock that moves with the throttle grip.
Identify the sleeve that fits over the plastic ring. It's the one with the set screws on the perimeter, each facing the center of the circle.
When you look inside the sleeve, you'll notice it's about twice as deep as the plastic ring is wide. That would work fine with a hard, flat, grip. But, when you have a palm swell or squishy grip material, the plastic ring slips into that extra space in the sleeve when you turn down the set screws. That's very annoying because you have to back out all the set screws, remove the sleeve, readjust the ring, and try again.
So here's the big secret: take the thinnest available plastic ring available other than the one you selected earlier as the right size to install. Replace the temporary shim with that one. You should have two plastic rings on the grip nearest the MC. The one you sized to your grip should be the outermost of the two. Having two rings doesn't create a problem because the sleeve is deep enough for two rings.
Line up the canals with one canal on top. When you fit the sleeve over the rings, apply pressure toward the master cylinder while you tension the set screws and everything should work nicely. If a set screw goes in more than half way, the ring probably shifted on you. If it's on the ring, it will feel very solid very fast.
If you are very particular, you may want to sand the shim. It depends on the shape of your grips. If I have to do it again for any reason, I think I will put electric tape around the shim so it can't expand and allow the installed ring to shift. I don't think it's going anywhere at this point, though.
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