I had a similar situation and the left handed drill didn't work. I ended up cutting a slot in the bolt with a dremel and used an impact screwdriver to turn the bolt.
Broken Bolt In Handlebar Weight
- Thread starter Uncle Phil
- Start date
Phil after looking over the picture again I'd drill it with an 3/32"" bit maybe .400" deep and use a small square easy out. The screw is 6mm or just under .250" (.236).
Phil by any chance can you weigh a bar end , my bike is missing them and next door has a lathe to make me some.
By the way how are the Ribs healing?
By the way how are the Ribs healing?
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Uncle Phil
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Well, I tried the lefthanded bit and was not getting much success.
But the bolt happened to turn just enough that I could get a little purchase on it with a small sharp wood chisel.
I kept fussing with the chisel turning it little by little.
Finally got enough bolt exposed that I could grab the broken end with very fine pointed birdbill pliers and was able to turn it out.
Glory Hallelujah!!!!!
But the bolt happened to turn just enough that I could get a little purchase on it with a small sharp wood chisel.
I kept fussing with the chisel turning it little by little.
Finally got enough bolt exposed that I could grab the broken end with very fine pointed birdbill pliers and was able to turn it out.
Glory Hallelujah!!!!!
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Uncle Phil
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They are about 2 1/8 Inch long and weight 10 oz/300 grams as near as I can measure them.
Ribs are still really tender but the pain level is at least 'manageable'.
Thanks for the info, and happy to hear your on the mend.
Don't you just love that feeling when something starts work for you? I'm glad you got it out the easiest way possible.
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Uncle Phil
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The great thing was I did not have to remove the handlebars - just spun the old bolt out and put the new one with the weight back in place!
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
I was fairly certain that you would prevail. Forgive me for not being 100% certain -- I was recalling my own personal dismal win / loss ratio with things that break off in those seemingly unreachable places.
But with my sordid history of such unpleasant encounters, it hasn't happened a lot lately to me (knock wood), and I'm not sure that's because I'm more careful these days, or if I've learned that everything is figureoutable.
Anyway, a win for you!
Congratulations.
Andrew Shadow
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This is your fault, you reminded me.
Did your ST1300 turn signal problem ever become figureoutable?
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Uncle Phil
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The problem is usually not the 'figureoutable' but the 'getitoutable' for me!
Hers's the proper photo for the ST1100 bar weights....it's included in the Switch Assembly drawing. The screw, #16, passes through the weight and into the inserted 'weight', #7, in the first photo posted where it resides just inside the bar in the region where the grips set
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Uncle Phil
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You would think they would have been at the handlebar drawing ...Hers's the proper photo for the ST1100 bar weights....it's included in the Switch Assembly drawing. The screw, #16, passes through the weight and into the inserted 'weight', #7, in the first photo posted where it resides just inside the bar in the region where the grips set
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I should ask if anyone has a set they would like to sell, honda still has them at like 75 each, ouch! Phil are they made of steel? Looks simple enough to make , if i can find the metal.
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Uncle Phil
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They appear to be made out of aluminum but I'm not sure.
Here's a set on EBay (there are others on there also) -
Honda ST 1100 Bar End Weights with Bolts Pan European 1996 to 2001 A747 | eBay
I've bought ST1100 stuff from the UK - it just can take a while to get here.
I don't remember though if the pre-96 ones are different than the 96 and later ones as there was a difference in the handlebars.
Thanks, have bought cables for the Cx and Gl from Wemoto in the UK and shipping was more than the cost of the parts.Do like the Slinky glide on my CX cut the pull in amount on the clutch in half.
It looks like the 1100 bars are a continuous bar, was going to suggest to try taking the left grip out and trying the blow gun trick or ramming something flexible through the bars against it...
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The only ways I can think of to remove this assembly with the long retention screw broken involve some luck with an easy out, or drilling/cutting the weight itself so you can use a slide hammer to yank it all out and hope something remains useable in the aftermath.You would think they would have been at the handlebar drawing ...
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Uncle Phil
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That's about it I would think. The problem with the slide hammer is it wrecks the 'holding clip' that you can't get anymore.
I'm so happy that I was able to get the bolt out without a lot of drama!
It saved me the hassle of replacing the handlebars, putting on new heated grips, etc.
I get conflicting info on availability from different parts sites, but hondaparts-direct.com shows them as available for $26 each US. Last time I took one off it felt heavy like steel, I don't think they're aluminum.
