Before I replace the fork seals, is it advisable to get new springs? I'm not the sort to spend money to spend it. It is a 93, so you are talking 20 year old springs. Any experience appreciated.
Changing fork seals... get springs too?
- Thread starter rcb
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+1 on Smash's post. Progressive springs, new fluid, and tapered steering stem bearings made a world of difference on my '93. Also, if it's a high-miles bike you may want to get the fork slider bushings too and do them while you are in there.
Sonicsprings.com for your springs and you'll really like tapered steering head bearings...
Rcb, I have a set of progressive springs for the 1100 that we could make a deal on. New in the box. As long as the standard uses the same spring as the ABS. I would gusess they are the same but I don't know that for a fact.
PM me if you would like to talk.
PM me if you would like to talk.
OP
OP
The tapered head bearings are already on the way. I'll look into the springs between the ABS and Standard (mines a standard).
The bike has 49k.
The bike has 49k.
I did Progressive springs, new fluid, when you change out the seals do all the other little stuff too, slide bush & guide, o-rings, bolts, washers, etc. Tapered head bearings and I also did a MCL fork brace too! You will like it!!
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Springs made of quality steel last a very long time. The service manual should give a dimension for a service limit on the OEM springs. If the OEM springs are OK for your needs and abilities and measure in spec the question is do you want to upgrade.
I want to refurbish my forks as well, though the head bearings seem fine and the fork seals aren't leaking, so I am wondering if I would just get away with changing the fork springs,10 wt fork oil and new bushings?
finding the part numbers for the other bits you mention isn't easy.also someone mentioned a fork brace, I read somewhere that the absII bikes already have a fork brace because of the way they are designed? maybe I'm totally wrong on that though, thanks
1)Of course you can use the old seals. The only thing to be completely aware of is that if you nick them the slightest bit you're going to be tearing each fork a part again very soon! YMMV! It might make a lot of sense to have a new set seals on hand. 
2) No fork brace is made for ABS because they don't need it.
2) No fork brace is made for ABS because they don't need it.
there are lots of Honda parts supplier online with the fiche available on the website. Here's one of them, but there's many others. You probably want to deal with a UK supplier for the actual order, but this will get you the parts numbers.
http://www.westernhonda.com/fiche_select2.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=2001&fveh=132024
Hi
I just pulled my forks off to a fluid change, and noticed the tiniest of seeping, so after viewing a you tube www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30
I decided I can do this. So I set about to empty the left fork and before I knew I hand completely dismantled it. Mine is a 2000 ST1100P currently with 97,000 kms.
The fluid was gungy and putrid. I measured the spring and it was the same left as new and by the way is a progressive. Next I did the right and noticed the fluid was slightly better and the spring was 2mm shorter than when new and well with in specs.
I am waiting the arrival of new seals that are coming to Ozz from the UK including postage less than 1/2 price of what they they cost in Oz. I will install the new seals with the new found knowledge and replace the fluid with 10Wt castrol that's what a few guy over here are running and I will stay with the stock spring as someone here said they are still a quality part.
:tc1:
Cheers
Kappy
I just pulled my forks off to a fluid change, and noticed the tiniest of seeping, so after viewing a you tube www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30
I decided I can do this. So I set about to empty the left fork and before I knew I hand completely dismantled it. Mine is a 2000 ST1100P currently with 97,000 kms.
The fluid was gungy and putrid. I measured the spring and it was the same left as new and by the way is a progressive. Next I did the right and noticed the fluid was slightly better and the spring was 2mm shorter than when new and well with in specs.
I am waiting the arrival of new seals that are coming to Ozz from the UK including postage less than 1/2 price of what they they cost in Oz. I will install the new seals with the new found knowledge and replace the fluid with 10Wt castrol that's what a few guy over here are running and I will stay with the stock spring as someone here said they are still a quality part.
:tc1:
Cheers
Kappy
Yup...done it!
Yup, ABS do have a fork brace, it is underneath the fender. The head bearings may seem fine but until you switch over the roller tapered bearing, I guess you don't know what you are missing.
Like others have said, if the performance satisfies you, then just change the fluid, inspect the guide and slider bushings for wear, and change the seals. Mileage varies on the bushing life depending on riding style and route... ie.. if you ride mostly interstate, then the bushings will last much longer than if you ride moto cross with your ST... Yeah, I know, not many folks ride moto cross with the ST, but you get my meaning. There are other upgrades you can do to make the 1100 handle somewhat better, but if you are not likely to utilize the upgrades, then why spend the money.
True enough,
But I will bet that if you put it on the center stand and sit on it to make it come off the front wheel, you will feel very definite detentes or notches as you steer side to side. The balls get hammered into the races when riding and over time that is what we get.
ST1100Y
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I would definitely replace those brass bushings too! I'd also maintain a replacement interval of 36T~48Tkm on that fork oil from now on (shorten it if you often ride under very dusty and/or humid conditions...) Despite the dust seal on top and the double fork seals beneath, the fork oil receives a lot of contaminations due the large surface area of the fork tubes the seals have to work on, which will start chemical deterioration on the oil; adding up to this are factors like heat and shear forces during the suspension work, plus abrasion particles from mentioned bushings and fork bottoms. Take a flashlight and look down into just drained a fork bottom and you might see lots of black stuff plus some water droplets having accumulated there. Fork oil is not meant to remain in use for like >100Tkm; doing so will lead to mechanical wear/damage to fork bottoms, tubes and other internal parts. After draining the fork oil (standard models do have drain bolts on the low outside of the fork bottoms; forks of ABS-II/CBS models require removal to turn them upside down for purging oil/liquids) I also given them a good rinse with some fast evaporating brake cleaner (also give the dampers a few strokes while this stuff is still in there), which washes out a lot of black goo, even while the drained oil still looks rather good, not tinted/discolored and transparent. Attach an air hose to blow them free and leave open for a while to vent out, before fill new fork oil. YMMV...
I change my fork oil with every front tire replacement. the wheel is already off the bike, so its only a few more minutes work to pull the forks off and do the oil change. For some reason the ST contaminates the fork oil faster than other bikes I've owned, so even at that short a replacement interval the oil is actually dirty. Also, if I change it with every tire replacement I don't have to keep track of when I changed it last.
Tmac79
Tim
my $0.02 - Change out all the little cheap bits. I'd rather spend a few dollars too much than to have to pull the forks apart later and do it again.
Ok so what parts will I need? new slider bushings,new fork oil and dust seals,new hyperpro fork springs, motul 10 wt fork oil.Tapered head race bearings.
what to I need for the anti dive valve? also the rattle/noise I am hearing from the front end could be coming from the SMC as I have been told, I don't know what parts I should be replacing,and as its fairly important stuff to get right I won't do the work myself but I have a mate who is a mechanic that will help me install the parts.