Chinese ST?

I think it's been around for a couple of years in the home market and I believe the Chinese police have their own version. I can imagine it's an interesting ride with that lump in it.
It's very much a RT1200 lookalike. It's no looker.
It.
 
CFMoto might be the first Chinese manfacturer to earn my respect. Their product range is prety decent and by all accounts their latest offerings (like the 450 twin sport bike) are very decent to ride.

I would not be too worried about a chain drive either; the life depends on how much love you give it, on my MT-10 I have over 40,000km on the original chain with no tight spots or uneven wear.
 
I came up with a chain-adjustment method that minimizes slack, which should help maximize mileage, while avoiding over-tightening:

The factory recommends 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches of slack with the bike (NH750) on the side-stand, but how accurate is that? The ideal slack is as little as possible without ever getting tight, so I use my own procedure. I start by lubing it after a warm-up ride, then let it cool, maybe overnight, and on the center stand.

I remove the seat and route a tie-down strap over the bike frame, under the swing-arm on both sides, back over the bike frame, and hook the strap ends together. I then tighten the strap, compressing the rear springs, until the sprockets are in a straight line with the swing-arm pivot, which is where the chain will be tightest.

I then rotate the rear wheel several times while checking the chain for the least slack, as chains don't wear evenly. Once I find the position with the least slack, I adjust the chain for very little play, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch. That's as tight as it can be without the risk of it being too tight as the wheel moves.
 
Larry Fine said:
I came up with a chain-adjustment method that minimizes slack, which should help maximize mileage, while avoiding over-tightening:

The factory recommends 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches of slack with the bike (NH750) on the side-stand, but how accurate is that? The ideal slack is as little as possible without ever getting tight, so I use my own procedure. I start by lubing it after a warm-up ride, then let it cool, maybe overnight, and on the center stand.

I remove the seat and route a tie-down strap over the bike frame, under the swing-arm on both sides, back over the bike frame, and hook the strap ends together. I then tighten the strap, compressing the rear springs, until the sprockets are in a straight line with the swing-arm pivot, which is where the chain will be tightest.

I then rotate the rear wheel several times while checking the chain for the least slack, as chains don't wear evenly. Once I find the position with the least slack, I adjust the chain for very little play, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch. That's as tight as it can be without the risk of it being too tight as the wheel moves.
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As I read this it struck me that it would be hilarious if, after all that extra work, your method turned out to be 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches of slack with the bike on the side-stand.

(I suspect that you have no doubt already made that comparison.)
 
Andrew Shadow said:
As I read this it struck me that it would be hilarious if, after all that extra work, your method turned out to be 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches of slack with the bike on the side-stand.

(I suspect that you have no doubt already made that comparison.)
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It would be funny, but I doubt it actually would. To me, that's a wide range of slop. And, no, I actually haven't.
 
It's quite common to give information for chain adjustments whilst on the side stand. I can only think it's because centre stands are often not fitted as standard.
I ignore the Suzuki information, after owning lots of chain final drive bikes you know when it just feels right and always adjust and check on the centre stand. Although I'm pretty sure this bike has only had one adjustment in 4000 miles or thereabouts.
Upt.
 
TerryS said:
on my MT-10 I have over 40,000km on the original chain with no tight spots or uneven wear.
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I always knew when my (original FZ1) chain needed replacement. It stretched frequently the first and last thousand miles or so of its life. 25,000 miles is phenomenal with that hp! I got 20 or so cleaning and lubing every 300 miles.
 
I don’t know how long today’s chains last between adjustments, but my last 03 triumph bonnie would go 8000klm before needing it done. Not a powerful bike at all and that was with lubeman oiler. Was hoping for more.
 
The Chinese are capable of excellent quality. The question is, is that the case here, and do they support the machine with parts, etc. That's a pretty decent looking machine, provided the materials used a good quality and parts/support are good. I've seen too many examples of power equipment and parts that are well engineered but the materials are garbage and support is non-existent. Legacy manufacturers get good quality from their chinese plants, but chinese domestic product seem to suck. Maybe its just their export stuff, but I doubt it. If CFMoto can produce a quality machine they will probably sell well. Since KTM is behind it, it has a chance.
 
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