Clutch fiction disk blew up, again.

I went back and reread all of Larry's notes from the last time. What he's doing is overpowering the brake using engine rpm and has cooked the bearings, rods, and clutch slave. The clutch plates will explode with the failure of the bearings.

I'll give you $150 for it.
 
I'd be afraid to do u-turns and other slow maneuvers with the engine at 4000 RPM. If I was less than precise with the clutch, that bike is taking off in which ever direction it happens to be pointed very quickly with all the torque that it has.
 
ST1100Y said:
hmm, that depends on the ideology of the instructor...
especially law enforcement instructors seem to "favor" that form of abuse...
they never have to fix those rigs themself, nor have to pay for repairs, just drop it off and grab another from the motor-pool... 😒
(ze GF smoked a pretty new clutch set in her NT700VA due the instructor urging her to hold 3~4000rpm during such a lesson by the local bike cops... :oops:)
Click to expand...
That doesn't sound very safe.
 
As an MSF coach, sudden or loud rpm's has me looking for the source very quickly.
In the Basic RiderCourse, that meant if the clutch was released with all that noise, things were going to get exciting, fast!
Seen it happen.
Big-air wheelies, while maybe impressive to watch, make coaches nervous.
What goes up, must come down.
 
Al st1100 said:
That doesn't sound very safe.
Click to expand...
I'd agree... by the very reasons listed by @wjbertrand ... plus the mechanical damage such causes...
But I do sense that their POV is different, because 'on call' you don't care about the bike underneath, you priority is to stay in pursuit...

OTOH did I have a debate with one instructor about me trail-braking during a "low speed, tight cornering training"; he lived the religious believe that such will blow my ST's rear brake and that I must do that cornering without any rear brake at all... :oops:
In all the years of previous trainings we internalize to feather the clutch with some RPM, while controlling the speed + stabilizing the bike with the rear brake...
The massive rear rotor and pads being three times as thick as the front ones do give a clue... doh... 😒
 
Hey. I got it all back together and its running great. I here you and I think its likely I just blow it up with bad technique so I'm going to stop doing that. Btw, I did find a diagram in the service manual that showed that oil gets to the clutch via the area that the push rod sits in and that did not seem to be blocked at all. I suppose that makes a lot of sense as the oil will spin outward onto the clutch. Thanks for all the input.
 
Keep in mind that new clutch plates need to be broken in just like new brakes, slowly wearing down the high spots until the mating faces meet across their entire surface areas without creating hot spots.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom