Clutch Slip

squibby

Joined
Aug 11, 2016
Messages
4
Location
Australia
Hi Guys,

Just got back from an epic 5000km tour on the East Coast of Australia. Running the Bike on 10w50w Ipone oil at the moment, and I believe the clutch doesn't like it that much. It makes the screechy clutch slippy noise if I launch from a stand still, which it wasn't doing when the oil was fresh. Any oils you've experienced that enhance overall clutch/gear change performance?

Not used to big heavy bikes like this, still learning.
 
Squibby,
I don't know what is available down under but I can recommend Motul 5000 10 40 Semi Synthetic.
It's been in my ST1100w for about 30000 miles with no issues.
Good luck,
Upt'North.
 
squibby said:
Hi Guys,

Just got back from an epic 5000km tour on the East Coast of Australia. Running the Bike on 10w50w Ipone oil at the moment, and I believe the clutch doesn't like it that much. It makes the screechy clutch slippy noise if I launch from a stand still, which it wasn't doing when the oil was fresh. Any oils you've experienced that enhance overall clutch/gear change performance?

Not used to big heavy bikes like this, still learning.
Click to expand...

Neither synthetic nor semi-synthetic play well with the clutch disc when bike is under heavy acceleration;). Good ole' 'dino' oil is best bet for clutch disc longgivity:). 20-50w Vavoline has ALWAYS been my option, with never an issue. And yes, I regularly throttled it hard.
 
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Interesting comments Thanks, So it seems my full synthetic is probably contributing to my issue. I'll give these other oils a go, thanks for the swift advice!
 
squibby said:
Interesting comments Thanks, So it seems my full synthetic is probably contributing to my issue. I'll give these other oils a go, thanks for the swift advice!
Click to expand...

Oil threads can be long and scary. :) Synthetic oils can and do perform very well with wet clutch engines. You just need the proper wet clutch compatible oil. I've used amsoil in pretty much every engine I've ever owned. Don't be afraid to use synthetic oil.
 
Which brings up another question. Since your oil is problematical, does one simply drain it out, fill up with a more clutch compatible oil and off you go? Or do you have to flush the clutch with something?
 
Kevcules said:
Oil threads can be long and scary. :) Synthetic oils can and do perform very well with wet clutch engines. You just need the proper wet clutch compatible oil. I've used amsoil in pretty much every engine I've ever owned. Don't be afraid to use synthetic oil.
Click to expand...

I've used Amsoil since 1991 or so. Never any issues.
 
SMSW said:
Which brings up another question. Since your oil is problematical, does one simply drain it out, fill up with a more clutch compatible oil and off you go? Or do you have to flush the clutch with something?
Click to expand...

Nope.........drain, change filter, re-fill with 'dino' oil of your choice, go ride and enjoy the new-found grin:D:).
 
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Brant said:
Nope.........drain, change filter, re-fill with 'dino' oil of your choice, go ride and enjoy the new-found grin:D:).
Click to expand...

Thanks. Good to know. I'm likely to some day miss the 'energy conserving' on the back of a bottle of oil and use the wrong stuff.....
 
Well I can get most oils if I really try, but the readily available oil around my local area is Ipone Katana Full Synthetic in a 10w50w which is the weight I tend to go for since the MV Agusta specs are for a 10w60w and I am happy to use use the same 10w50 for both bikes.

The Ipone Katana Full Power is the spec I'm getting the slip with. They also offer Ipone Katana OFF ROAD in the same viscosity. The difference being the OFF ROAD version is described for hard working clutches like in dirt bike racing. I could give that a go perhaps.
 
I'm using Penrite MC 4ST 10W-40 full synthetic, motorcycle-specific oil in my 1992; purchased from my local Supercheap Auto store. No clutch issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Which brings up another question. Since your oil is problematical, does one simply drain it out, fill up with a more clutch compatible oil and off you go? Or do you have to flush the clutch with something?
Click to expand...

I got a used bike with a slipping clutch. I dumped the oil (still clean) and replaced the filter and oil with a cheap 10/40 oil. I ran it about 2000 miles and dumped the oil and filter. Put my usual 20/50 Amsoil in and no more problems. :)
 
I'm having an issue with the clutch on my 2010 (commuter bike). I noticed it about six months or so ago where if I get on it, I can feel the clutch slipping, the bike revving and trying to catch up with speed/RPMs.

I'm assuming that the plates or springs are bad, even though it only has about 60K miles on it. Once I get one of the other bikes ('04) up and running, so I can commute on it, I'll go ahead, pull the front cover, replace the clutch plates, springs and waterpump, along with the clutch slave in the back. In the meantime, I'll continue to ride it, unless the clutch starts slipping so bad it doesn't go! :eek:4:


Update: I'm suspecting my problem could be the Slave cylinder. I flushed out the clutch line and had the reservoir refilled with nice clean fluid. That was a month or so ago. The sight window is very dark. I'm thinking oil in getting into my clutch's hydraulic line?:think1:
 
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I use a full synthetic ( 5W-40 ) without any clutch slip, but if I used a "dino" oil , I would use Castrol GTX 10W-40. Walmart carries it.

Check out this link : Oils
 
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