ST1100Y
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We could use a [metal-works/conservation] section here.
Up till around '96 Honda did an excellent job in corrosion protection on their bolts; after that Chromium VI (the dark olive-green finish) was out...
Whenever you clean a rusted bolt, also the last remaining protective oxide/galvanic layer get's removed...
Shiny ones can be electrode nickel plated... but what about the former green/now black ones?
Looked at some cold brush/dip black dye/tarnishing kits lately (gun owners might know), especially for tiny items like the screws holding the clutch/F-brake reservoir covers...
Seems pretty straightforward:
clean - de-grease - acid dip - dye (possible repeat) - put into fixing liquid - soak overnight in dehydration oil for fixation
works on steel and aluminum...
The kits come with all 4 liquids/solvents required (and I'd use distilled water for rinsing between the baths...)
Anyway, how good is the actual corrosion inhibition in the long run?
Up till around '96 Honda did an excellent job in corrosion protection on their bolts; after that Chromium VI (the dark olive-green finish) was out...
Whenever you clean a rusted bolt, also the last remaining protective oxide/galvanic layer get's removed...
Shiny ones can be electrode nickel plated... but what about the former green/now black ones?
Looked at some cold brush/dip black dye/tarnishing kits lately (gun owners might know), especially for tiny items like the screws holding the clutch/F-brake reservoir covers...
Seems pretty straightforward:
clean - de-grease - acid dip - dye (possible repeat) - put into fixing liquid - soak overnight in dehydration oil for fixation
works on steel and aluminum...
The kits come with all 4 liquids/solvents required (and I'd use distilled water for rinsing between the baths...)
Anyway, how good is the actual corrosion inhibition in the long run?