Crimp -- or Solder?

Sadlsor

Sadlsor

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Maybe this should be a poll, but I have learned some stuff since my last wiring project.
Not so very long ago, I believed that 12v DC motorcycle electrical farkles would best be installed with stranded wire (for vibration security), and all connections should be soldered whenever possible. (Yes, separate and isolatable fuse-protection is to be implemented, in either case.)
But then I read a very long email thread on the ldrider email list (think Iron Butt crowd), where many arguments were convincingly proffered in favor of proper crimping.
I need not go into the rationales, the whys and wherefores, as many in this forum are equally proficient, knowledgeable and experienced.
And here we have a different, armchair-bound, snow-confined, winter thread for your entertainment and engagement:
So, to those who wire their own add-on's, what works for you and really lasts?
Crimp -- or Solder?
 
Generally crimp for me, but not a hill I would die on.

Wire Splices | ST1100 Related

Just thought I'd pass on an experience I have had with splicing wires. About 8 years ago I made a set of 4 inch handlebar risers. I then needed to lengthen the wires going to both handlebar switches. I used a standard soldered butt splice, like the right splice shown below. Everything was...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
Sometimes I have found that the terminal 'wings' aren't quite up to the job of properly enclosing the crimped wire. I bought the right size for 2.8mm terminals for the size of wire, but I think I bought a bad batch, or they were supplied incorrectly. In which case I will solder the crimped terminal. I always support the wire with heat shrink, and I silicone grease them, often even remembering to do this after they have cooled down. If soldered joints break, they always seem to do it where the wire leaves the solder. Hence the shrink tube strain relief and grease.

I'm not sure of the convention with vehicle wiring harnesses. I was always told that the live connector should have the female terminals. But female terminals are always in the housing which fits inside the other half. (ie the female terminal is in the male housing).

So my recent project, I put the male terminals into the harness - which means the female connector can be taped onto the outside of the harness, and held firmly in place. There are few places on the 1300, where I have seen this same approach. Any connectors which don't have anything plugged in, I put a blank male housing on and tape the end to keep the live male terminals protected.

Hitachi Female.jpgHitachi Male.jpg
 
I'm a solder fan, although crimping is fast and usually fine too.
If connecting wires permanently I usually solder, end terminals and splice ins often get crimps.

That being said you can get cold solder joints over time that will give issues...

I think either option is fine as long as it is done right. A bad crimp is as problematic as a bad solder.

Now there is also another option - posilocks, positwist, positite and positaps.
I know a few folks who used them and swear by them. I haven't bought nay yet simply due to the price.

Posi-Lock(R) - The Best Connectors You'll Ever Use!

No crimp connectors, and no crimp electrical connectors. Stronger than crimping & reusable.
www.posi-products.com www.posi-products.com

From what I've seen of them they'd be my new preferred way to connect over solder or crimping.
 
DeanR said:
Proper crimping (open barrel connectors etc. and proper tool) and good heat shrink.
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yep you got it right proper tool, connector and a nice waxed heat shrink. If I need to tap on to a wire where I don't want to cut it I will solder it. Trailer connectors are bad ideas, don't seen to last long when exposed to elements. Plastic conduit always makes the job look professional.
 
Most connections on most automotive and motorcycle factory wiring harnesses are crimp connectors. This is because soldered connections create a hard inflexible section of wire. Wire breakage will usually occur at the juncture between the part of the wire that has solder and is rigid and where there is no solder and the wire flexes. Crimp connectors allow the wire to remain as flexible as it originally was and allows it to absorb any movement in the wire without breaking. For connections where there will be no movement of the two wires being joined, relative to each other, a solder joint can work well. When a wire that will have some movement to it, however slight, is being attached to a fixed item that does not move (e.g. wire to a fixed coil connector) a crimp connector is superior because it does not make the wire rigid like soldering does. This assumes that the correct size wires, connectors and the correct crimping tool is being used properly. This is not difficult to do but it is a more complicated affair than one might think and takes a little learning curve.
 
Crimping using dielectric gel filled caps/crimps gets solid connection with moisture resistance and utilizes the wire cover as additional support. May not look pretty with these bulky connectors.

Although there are some applications where solder is the less obtrusive connection but I have always covered that with a glue gun or silicon. Like on the mirror mods with directional led add
 
Ross Smith said:
Old school I guess.
Rosin core solder then glued heat shrink tubing over the cleaned connection. Have found that crimping doesn't always support high current draws and have gotten hot. Braided wire may also fray if the connection experiences motion. My two cents...
Ross
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Solder for stranded always, crimp on an option and preferable for solid. Heat shrink over the top.
 
Where vibration might be a concern – crimp I do – as is the standard on 99.9% connections on a vehicle. I've done thousands of solder connections. I love the smell of Kester's in the morning... But for a vehicle it's crimping for the effects of soldering as explained previously.
 
I've been rosin-core soldering since electronics class in High School , & I've seen too many of others that used crimp connectors of various designs that broke because wire was pinched & cut so much & got flexed , then broke . Shrink wrap looks nice but usually isn't adhered to the wire so you can pull on the wire and it breaks anyway , if crimped .
I wrap the wire ends in opposite directions on each other , then ...
I tape my solder joints good w / higher quality brand electrical tape . The last 15 years , I also put a thin bead of super glue along the end of the electrical tape - that makes sure tape doesn't start to let go , due to engine heat or age . Never had any issue after doing that . After all these years , I'm still on my 2nd Weller 8200 soldering gun .
 
Solder is a soft metal. It is not considered a strong mechanical connection. Small micro chips and components have extremely low mass will survive high/constant vibration. larger components will be glued or screwed in place. Wires have a long lever and if moving will eventually fracture the solder joint. This is why correctly crimped connections are preferred in high vibration environments. I crimp, then back fill the voids with solder, then conformal coat (paint), then tape or, shrink and/or tye-wrap if necessary. Then moly paste between the.......
 
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I've seen too many of others that used crimp connectors of various designs that broke because wire was pinched & cut so much
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This would seem to be more an indication that the crimping process was poorly executed rather than crimping being an inferior process.
Shrink wrap looks nice but usually isn't adhered to the wire
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Shrink wrap that is coated with a heat activated adhesive is available and probably a better choice in many applications.
 
Solder is a soft metal. It is not considered a strong mechanical connection.
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This is a valid point. The training I received clearly stated that the solder was there to create a good electrical connection only. Its function was not to be a good mechanical connection. Before soldering, a good mechanical connection is required.
 
Depends on the application. I think crimps got popular, and perfected, simply because of the speed they can be done. The effect of the solder "hardening" one area, and then the wire breaking at that point can be minimized by two things: Don't "over-solder" and let it wick up the wire long past the junction. Properly secure the wire so it isn't affected by vibration. Lets think about this for a minute. If a crimp is supposedly able to allow the wire to move, and not break, then how tight is it holding the wire exactly? For critical connections I like to crimp non-insulated terminals, back-fill the open ends of the wire with solder, and then adhesive lined shrink tubing over that. For general use I like the "Ancor" brand adhesive lined crimp products. Get a nice ratcheting type crimper. If you have ever worked on a boat, you'd be familiar with "black wire disease" where corrosion has occurred under the insulation. Turns the conductors black, and increases the resistance significantly. Eventually the wire fails despite looking fine. On boats I like to strip with insulation in preparation for crimping, then I spray a bit of CorrosionX, Boeshield, etc. on the bare wire. Then proceed as normal. The idea is the anti-corrosion product wicks up the wire a bit and protects from moisture penetration that starts black wire disease. Maybe overkill, but it works for me.

RT
 
I always solder when possible. I have seen too many failed crimps (they little butt splices that never seem to stay). I was taught to always make two connected loops, twisted back into the original wire, solder all exposed wire and heat shrink if possible (if not electric tape). In college our professor would make us make a loop out of about 3-4ft of smaller gauge wire. Once we were happy with our connection he would pull the loop with his hands as hard as he could. If the joint failed he would make you redo it, if the wire failed at a different spot or he couldn't break it you passed.

Having said all that, it really depends on the application. If it is something vital for the vehicle (ABS sensor comes to mind) I take my time and make sure the solder connection is perfect. If it is wiring in a dash cam, I may use a crimp and address it later if it ever fails.

Have you guys seen "liquid electrical tape"? I just discovered this last year, not sure it would be good in a vehicle - but for irrigation wiring it works great!

-Ryan
 
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