Dash cams

I think unless you purchase DashCam viewer you really cannot do much other than view the video files. Also I think DashCam view is the only one that will let you see the GPS data, speed and route info. That data is imbedded into the video file. Although with the free version I think you can export the GPS data to a GPX file, but it seems to me I had to do a modification to the file so I could read it.

I purchased it and it's registered as the full version. Even the developer hasn't been able to come up with a good reason it's not working. He is very responsive though, so I'm not going to say bad things about it or him.
 
Dashcam viewer could be 'replaced' with some open software - ffpmeg and/or mplayer will combine videos. Exiftool can extract the GPX. Command line tools though.
 
I've watched a lot of video from dashcams on youtube (a million of them to choose from) and I think one of the most important things (for insurance) is the ability to read the license plate clearly both daytime and nighttime.
I think that's where a lot of these cameras fail.

Other features of dashcams include seeing the speed, GPS coordinates, shake detection, ability to save on command, width of view, front and rear (even inside), etc.
Seems like Garmin and Nexar are two of the better ones based upon what I've seen.

Thoughts anyone?
 
Yup, you need quite high resolution to read license plates even at relatively close distances! Things get worse with poor lighting, vibration, relative movement...

1080p seems just about workable with UK style plates for in-town/low speed traffic. I think Euro or USA plates will be more difficult, but even going up to 4K doesn't necessarily increase actual video quality all that much - sensors are tiny and get very hot.

Of course, trading field of view for distance is possible for OEMs, but wider fields of view are better marketing, and probably easier engineering-wise. And it'd be really frustrating to get a pixel-perfect video of the patch of tarmac next to the offending vehicle :)
 
I'd look for something inexpensive if you want just a "dash cam". They are all made in China, even INNOVV (Guangdong Province, China)...which makes an excellent camera. But at $460 on Amazon, it can be overkill if all you need is one that can be purchased for $200.

I bought the Halocam M1 several years ago for $189. Front and rear camera. 1080/30 fps. As it isn't an "action cam", I have never felt the need to get one that records at 60 fps. Clarity for capturing license plates is great. Plenty sufficient for what I bought it for...insurance purposes. paulcb wrote a great review on it. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/another-halocam-m1-review.168126/

The Halocam M1 is no longer sold on Amazon. :( My point in bringing it up is you can use those specs to look for a "dash cam" from another manufacturer. Check the reviews to see how the other customers like them, and save yourself some money. Like I used to tell my Mother when she wanted to buy the latest and greatest computer gadget, "Mom, the marketing folks get paid to make you feel like you just gotta buy their product...even if you don't need it."


One word of caution...buy the absolute fastest SD card you can. You're capturing two video feeds, a GPS feed, and a sound feed. I made a mistake initially in buying a fast SD card...but it wasn't the fastest. I was dropping frames and sometimes only capturing half the frame, till I upgraded my SD card. Likewise, if you read 1 star reviews and someone is complaining about that kind of experience...it probably isn't the camera at fault, but the memory card.

Chris
 
OK; time to start some serious looking at front and rear cams. Have a trip down to SDCC this summer, and Marti say's she'd feel better if I have one...
Shopping today. First up:
 

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I've had the Halocam M1 on my bike for over three years.
They no longer make or support this system.
I am currently having issues with mine, and considering a replacement.
Been looking at dash cams over on Amazon, anyone running them on your bikes? Any recommendations on brands?
Did you decide yet?
I like the Blueskysea, possibly their B3M.
 
Just curious...what kind of issues?
I can no longer access the DVR with my phone.
I changed my password and haven't had access since.
My power supply failed on me yesterday.
I'll need to order a buck converter.
Still not sure what caused the SD card to fail, which also took out the converter.
It operates fine with a different SD and using the USB adaptor to power it.
 
I've had the Halocam M1 on my bike for over three years.
They no longer make or support this system.
I am currently having issues with mine, and considering a replacement.

Did you decide yet?
I like the Blueskysea, possibly their B3M.

I should have a new buck converter tomorrow.
I now have access on my phone too.
Current issues resolved, I'll keep my Halocam M1 awhile longer.
 
I use a crosstour 4k action camera in a sj4000 powered case. i have it mount on the left mirror cover using a quick mount designed for dslr cameras very small very strong mount. i remove it when i park. Action cameras wired are a good option. Most camera systems even ones claiming otherwise are not the resolution stated and are usually poor quality. if using a action camera you want the shortest mount possible to reduce vibration. a more expensive gopro will have much smoother video. In the uk if you have footage of the accident but no numberplate you can then claim for the accident anyway so super high quality is not really and issue.
 
Just remember that in an accident when you are submitting footage that the police and insurance company can ask for the SD card with ALL rides on it. All speeding and bonehead decisions you made on previous rides are exposed and the footage might be turned against you. There was an article from a lawyer advising against having one. There have been tickets issued because of a dash cam footage.
 
I think most cameras will allow you to delete all but the file of interest. If not, putting the SD card in a computer should allow it. Just don’t mention you have a dash cam at the scene.
 
I used to use action-cams like for track on my commutes. But those don't have auto-record features and sometimes I forget to turn on recording.

I like this unit. Comes with:
  • dual cameras for front & rear views
  • auto-record and loop-recording
  • parking-mode with motion-detector to catch anyone messing with your bike
  • crash detection, locks memory card when impact is sensed to prevent overwriting evidence

Not sure how memory card locking works. Will have to test to see if it'll let me delete incriminating evidence before turning it over
 
Not sure how memory card locking works. Will have to test to see if it'll let me delete incriminating evidence before turning it over

What they are describing is that an "event" either detected by the G sensor, video motion in parking mode, or manually flagged, by pressing a button on most dash cams, just places the video clip into a separate folder that is protected from being overwritten by the loop recording function. These event videos usually retroactively save a few minutes of video before and after the event. These files are just as easily accessed as the ones in the regular folders.
 
What they are describing is that an "event" either detected by the G sensor, video motion in parking mode, or manually flagged, by pressing a button on most dash cams, just places the video clip into a separate folder that is protected from being overwritten by the loop recording function. These event videos usually retroactively save a few minutes of video before and after the event. These files are just as easily accessed as the ones in the regular folders.
Ok, so just regular filesystem operations on microSD card. :)

I'm just thinking back to days of original SD cards and USB stick where you can slide microswitch lock to make it read-only. Then they came out with software bits to flip to lock. In some cases, you had to reformat it to unlock.
 
Probably not needed to be said but deleting evidence is criminal and could land you in a heap of trouble if they catch you.

Depends upon circumstances and case. Most of time, this is civil matter and you just need to provide other side's insurance with footage later. I've shared it with them from GoogleDrive just fine before.

Cops don't want to do paperwork unless there's prosecutable crime involved. Then chain-of-evidence rules are completely different from insurance cases. In event that anything on it would criminally incriminate you along with other party, just don't turn it over, "Uh, don't see anything, battery ran out!", 5th. In case of memory card, they have no idea of what's on it. No probable-cause and if they take it without 1st mirandizing and arresting you, they can't really use it against you for criminal prosecution anyway.

Many cops have egos and get angry with uncooperative people by escalating to "obstruction of justice" (felony 5). But most judges will dismiss or strike it down to "False information to police officer" (misdemeanor 1). This is usually in cases of fake-IDs and intoxication which can be verified easily after arrest.

There's sneaky thing that AZ does where they write up traffic citations as "civil matter". In which case, you don't get same rights as criminal case such as discovery and crossing them in court. I suspect this is means to speed up traffic cases in court and make more money. I'm looking for attourneys to research this...
 
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I mounted a Sony ASV camera on the side of my helmet so it would get what I looked at, Worked well even in the rain and has wide angle setting, took good video at night. could not mount on top of helmet as the shape is very much like a tail section on a plane. I know other drivers noticed it and I think it reduced others doing nasty things to me. Since I used it for commuting to work it doesn't get the recharge it should, although I still leave it on my helmet. I could get images , GPS and video off it on my laptop. ( I have no Smartphone, wouldn't know what to do even if I had one) It worked well and had the software in it that others did.
 
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