Deep Maintenance

Belisaerio

Belisaerio

Joined
May 20, 2009
Messages
26
Location
Ohio, east of Cincinnati
Bike
2025 Honda NT1100
If all goes to plan, I get my new NT1100 tomorrow. I've been riding my 2007 ST in the mean time. Unfortunately, I realize I have mileage anxiety with it. At, 103k, I think it just needs some thorough maintenance for another 100k.
So here's what I have planned, let me know what I'm missing:
  • Brakes, this is my biggest source of worry.
    • Replace rotors (they at minimum spec and I'm taking it apart anyway)
    • Rebuild calipers
    • Replace lines
    • Rebuild master cylinder if I can find a kit
    • Proportioning valve: No @#%&ing idea what do here. Honestly, it's working, I'm afraid to think about it too hard.
    • Pads, just cos new rotor
  • Replace all fluids and filters.
    • Engine
    • Driveshaft
    • Clutch
    • Air filter is cleanable
  • Is there anything I can do with the triple tree?
  • Forks were redone just before I stopped riding it.
  • Radiator and coolant replaced < 1000 miles ago. @#$%ing deer.
  • Can't remember when the spark plugs were done, so replace those.
  • Tires are good.
So what else am I missing?
 
Belisaerio said:
If all goes to plan, I get my new NT1100 tomorrow. I've been riding my 2007 ST in the mean time. Unfortunately, I realize I have mileage anxiety with it. At, 103k, I think it just needs some thorough maintenance for another 100k.
So here's what I have planned, let me know what I'm missing:
  • Brakes, this is my biggest source of worry.
    • Replace rotors (they at minimum spec and I'm taking it apart anyway)
    • Rebuild calipers
    • Replace lines
    • Rebuild master cylinder if I can find a kit
    • Proportioning valve: No @#%&ing idea what do here. Honestly, it's working, I'm afraid to think about it too hard.
    • Pads, just cos new rotor
  • Replace all fluids and filters.
    • Engine
    • Driveshaft
    • Clutch
    • Air filter is cleanable
  • Is there anything I can do with the triple tree?
  • Forks were redone just before I stopped riding it.
  • Radiator and coolant replaced < 1000 miles ago. @#$%ing deer.
  • Can't remember when the spark plugs were done, so replace those.
  • Tires are good.
So what else am I missing?
Click to expand...
I'm not the master mechanic as some on here are, but I've put on over 200K miles on my 2012. If it were me, unless the brakes and secondary master cylinder were giving me some trouble, I would leave them alone. If the brake pads are still good, just push them in and continue to use them. If the brake lines are still good, I don't see a need to replace them. I'm not even sure there is a kit to rebuild the SMC. I've never done anything with the proportioning valve, and I haven't heard of much to do with it. If the triple tee moves smoothly with no notching, it's still good. Otherwise, I have the kit to replace the bearings, waiting for someone to need it.
 
Why replace parts that are at or within tolerance, here I'm thinking replace brake pads if they're worn out, clean brake components and check brake hoses, everything is ok with no leaks. Then we'll change brake fluid, grease everything moving, maybe new brake pads and "good to go".

Changing all fluids and filters is a good idea and something I would do.

Check the engine, driveshaft, clutch, replace the air filter, check the fork, you can use the ST1300 buying / service guide here on the forum as a guide to maintenance on your bike.

 
This might give you some ideas....

Article - Maintenance Items Needed for a New (old) Bike | Articles

This article is the result of collaboration by Andrew Shadow, CYYJ, jfheath, Max Pete, SMSW, and SupraSabre. Igofar’s list was copied from the first link listed above. Click on the attached file. This one is V.11; in the future, any changes will be noted in the title on the first page as the...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com

From your list, I was not sure if you are going to do all those things or just inspect and replace what looks bad.
Brakes: replace limes? @sirbike has just done this with new braided ss brake lines. This is very expensive (my opine) and enormously labor intensive. Replacing say a short, soft or spongy section from the caliper to the brake lines makes sense but wholesale replacement? If the rotors are within spec (even 1 thou above minimum) I'd wait a year and check them - no harm is done if they are at or slightly under min spec with decent meat on the pads.
Never heard (on this forum) of anyone doing anything to the proportioning valve.
Air filter: I replace my car's air filters every 40 or 50k miles (whatever is recommended). I've never cleaned one (except my Guzzi's K&N).
Triple tree: Larry has said several times he checks the torque on the bolts. If the forks were done just before you stopped riding it, said bolts should be torqued properly. Check the steering head bearing according to the manual and leave it alone if it is ok.
Did you use the proper m paste on the wheel splines when you last changed tires?
Given the number of threads about electrical problems, when you have the tupperware off, I'd go over the bike looking at the electrical connectors. Specifically looking at the insulation on the wires close to the connector and the plastic connector housings for discoloration due to heat and/or corrosion. Check the 23 pin connector behind right headlight - esp the green ground connectors.

edit: forget the limes, how about making some lemon aid to drink while you work?:biggrin:
 
Consider calling Larry / @Igofar when you get into the brakes.
There's one right way to bleed them, but lots of wrong ways.
Only time you need to touch the proportioning valve, is during the brake bleed.
Do it right, and you shouldn't have any issue with the SMC.
Once every year, or two years, is not too often, and you can avoid having to buy a replacement.
 
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