pweg33
Does the ST1300 have a pair valve system that can be removed? I did a search and the threads I found only reference the ST1100.
wjbertrand
Ventura Highway
On the ST13 these are integrated into the valve covers. Unlike the ST1100 you don't gain any space or loose much weight as the assembly housing would still be present in the covers. Some of the passages are integrated into the head as well. More hassle than it's worth I suspect.
If you're just into making a bigger carbon foot print, just fit a pair of after market mufflers sans catalyst.
If you're just into making a bigger carbon foot print, just fit a pair of after market mufflers sans catalyst.
OP
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pweg33
I am asking because I'm not looking to gain performance or weight. I already have TB pipes and and Turbo Toms FPR installed. I'm just looking to get rid of the decel popping. Anyone have instructions on removal or blocking off the pair system???
mab864
I just put TB exhaust on my bike but I put the P1X (quiet) insert in. I ran 150 miles today and didn't have any decel popping. It ran very well. I also noticed last time I had the plastic valve covers off, the ST definitely has pair valves. I wondered about blocking them off too. I was concerned my bike would be lean with the new exhaust, but it seems to run fine. I think it may be the restriction and back pressure with the quiet inserts. What's turbo Toms FPR?
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pweg33
FPR is a fuel pressure regulator. I installed a K&N filter along with the TB pipes and added the FPR soon after. The FPR removed the flat spot around 4000 rpms and smoothed out the throttle over all rpm range.
DeSTy
I simply removed the hose from the top of each cylinder head and fitted a plug into them that's too wide to drop into the alloy inlet snout. This stopped pretty much all of the back-firing by removing oxygen from the exhaust system on Decel. It only pops now when I back off at high engine speed or brake from high revs into a corner. ( This usually ends with a blue flame from the 2Bros! )
)I am so glad that my 08 ST dont give me any problems that you guys report all the time, like stumbling throttle response-need to get a fuel cut eliminator, changed the exhaust no mid range-need to get an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator....my bike runs like a dream and i have no stumbling throttle, all the power available at any throttle position in any gear and no decelerate popping. I honestly believe you guys quest in power from this motor is lost and you are only making those companies happy with the purchase of their products with little to no gain in performance from the motor but only to report problems from making changes to a well made for a reason engine to exhaust combination, you change what the honda man put in it, expect that you will really hardly never get the bike to a performance that is or wont be beneficial since before you made your changes to the bike, engine or intake or fuel or exhaust, dont mean to sound like a rant but im just sayin.........
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pweg33
Well...I'm not sure what you are really saying...I caused problems because I changed some things on my own bike??? I took a stock bike that every other ST owner has and made it my own. I'm not sure there is a problem with what I did or any other person who added exhaust, intake, or any performance add-on that made a company happy. But ask around, because your perfect bike has a flat spot in the throttle. If not than I apologize; however, all the other owners who have changed their FPR must be crazy for making a company happy. Just my two cents.
If you're going to do it you might as well remove all of it. I've done it on my now gone XX Blackbird and on my now gone XR650L.
Strangely I haven't thought about doing it on the ST....TILL YOUR POST!
Trace back the vac. hoses to the vac, modulator or what ever it's called (too lazy to get my HSM) and remove it. trace further back to where the vac. source is and plug it. Remove the filtered air hoses from the air box and plug that hole. Cut a plate out of steel or aluminum and bolt that in place of the piece the hoses go to. There are kits sold for this for other bikes but not the ST. although I think if you'd get one for a Honda it might work since all those plates seem to be the same size.
Yes it helps with the popping and also less junk to get out of the way at valve check time.
Edit: I looked in the HSM and the pair control solenoid has an electrical connection, probably lights the FI light if you mess with it. Both bikes I did this to in the past were carbureted.
Strangely I haven't thought about doing it on the ST....TILL YOUR POST!
Trace back the vac. hoses to the vac, modulator or what ever it's called (too lazy to get my HSM) and remove it. trace further back to where the vac. source is and plug it. Remove the filtered air hoses from the air box and plug that hole. Cut a plate out of steel or aluminum and bolt that in place of the piece the hoses go to. There are kits sold for this for other bikes but not the ST. although I think if you'd get one for a Honda it might work since all those plates seem to be the same size.
Yes it helps with the popping and also less junk to get out of the way at valve check time.
Edit: I looked in the HSM and the pair control solenoid has an electrical connection, probably lights the FI light if you mess with it. Both bikes I did this to in the past were carbureted.
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pweg33
I did this to my VTX and had no problems, but it had a carb. I know others that have a VTX 1800 that is FI, but they don't have any electrical plugs to worry about. I may block it off and see what happens.
I have considered blocking the pair valves on my '04,, which runs 18" Del's. But it is low priority,, as from what I have read,, doing so will not add any performance. After burn is not severe,, and is about as prevalent as it was with the oem cans. With the stockers, the after burn was still there, just more muffled. Everyone tells me my bike sounds great and has a unique tone. I think it might sound good when the rev's are up,,, but I am not impressed below 3000k. Actually,, I don't get to hear what others hear,, as I am always on the bike,, and I wear earplugs, which filter\modify and improve the sound at all speeds. Bottom line is that I guess I am not really concerned about what my bike sounds like to other people,,, cheers,, CAt'
ps: imho the Del's weigh less,, pull a bit stronger,,, and some say they look and sound better than the oem mufflers. Are they worth paying full pop for,,, not really. But I like them at the price I paid.
ps: imho the Del's weigh less,, pull a bit stronger,,, and some say they look and sound better than the oem mufflers. Are they worth paying full pop for,,, not really. But I like them at the price I paid.
But getting back to the Pair valves,,, one thing that might convince me to block them is if I find a bunch of oil mist up in the air box. I noticed a bit last time I was in there,,, and have to do an air filter change soon. Blocking kits that I recall seeing in the past,, had 3 marbles and an electrical jumper,, so pretty simple. Last time I did a valve shim inspection I recall seeing some build up on the reed valves,, which likely explains the growing oil mist residue in the air box. Is it one of those situations where you can fix the system,,, bypass the system,,, or just leave it as is,,, and the results will be about the same ?? CAt'
CYYJ
Michael
Don't try and take the PAIR valves on the ST 1300 apart to clean them - I learned this the hard way. Story and photos here:
Don't try and take ST 1300 PAIR reed valves apart...
I think that the little bit of oil mist residue that we sometimes find in the upper right corner of the airbox comes from somewhere else on the motorcycle, perhaps a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system or similar.
I stuff a little piece of furnace filter - about 1 inch by 3 inches - into that small slot in the lower airbox assembly to capture the oil particles, and I replace it each time I have the upper airbox cover off. It doesn't get very dirty, but it saves me having to wipe the bottom of the big air filter clean.
Michael
Don't try and take ST 1300 PAIR reed valves apart...
I think that the little bit of oil mist residue that we sometimes find in the upper right corner of the airbox comes from somewhere else on the motorcycle, perhaps a PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system or similar.
I stuff a little piece of furnace filter - about 1 inch by 3 inches - into that small slot in the lower airbox assembly to capture the oil particles, and I replace it each time I have the upper airbox cover off. It doesn't get very dirty, but it saves me having to wipe the bottom of the big air filter clean.
Michael
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
It will stop the popping. Listen to those who have experience with it. Do a search here, plenty of info how to do it.
I put a rubber cap on the connector and taped it on, no FI light.
These bikes run really lean from the factory due to EPA emissions etc. What you've done, is made a really lean running bike leaner
Toss the K&N and put a stock OEM filter back in it, then remove the FPR, and replace all the vacuum lines and do a proper starter valve sync.
If you are having issues throttle control, install a G2 Throttle tamer.
When these bikes are dialed in correctly, you should be able to loft the front end in the first two gears simply by rolling on the throttle.
I've had several members ask me to remove the FPR, K&N filters, and tune their bike correctly, after they tried to tune it like a Harley
Find someone in your area who has had their bike taken hostage by me, and had it whispered, and compare their bike to yours
Bmacleod
Site Supporter
poster hasnt been around in 8 years...Find someone in your area who has had their bike taken hostage by me, and had it whispered, and compare their bike to yours
I love a good zombie thread.
Now that's funny....I didn't see that