Draining Fuel From The ST1100 Carbs

I've never needed to do it, but I seem to recall that may have been why those little access covers are on each of the grey panels next to the "gas tank", they allow you to get a long screwdriver into the area to access the drain screws on the bowls for the rear carbs.
 
Hellmann's isn't ethanol compatible, so make sure you are draining ethanol free fuel only! :rofl1:

Josh
 
Those screw heads are easy to damage. If the carbs have never been drained, there is a good chance those screws will be very tight. I stripped one and so waited until I got the carbs off to have good access and ability to have enough torque without damaging the screw head.
 
You depend on all 4 drain tubes being well connected if you drain in place. Otherwise you have a spill.
I just pull the carb and drain after removing.
Hold the corresponding nipple over the gas tank fill hole and turn the drain screw.
There will be residue after that so angle the carbs over a large bowl to get the last out.

Is this for storage or for carb cleaning and renewal?
 
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Slydynbye said:
Is this for storage or for carb cleaning and renewal?
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Both really - it will be a while before I can do the engine swap on SweetTreat (several projects in front of this one).
Her carbs are in good shape at this point but with the corn squeezins mix in there they will not be good long term.
So I'd rather leave them in place and just get the fuel out for now.
Then I'll pull them as part of the engine replacement/renewal when I get to it.
I want to leave her all together until 'surgery' time so I don't misplace any of her bits and pieces. ;)
 
Uncle Phil, thanks to bring that subject and for the interesting link on ST-Rider.net.
I do remember that someone ( @Jim Van if I remember correctly) was doing it every year, before storage.
I too have to put my bike in storage for 6 months every canadian winter (from mid-october to mid-april).
I use fuel stabiliser. But, yes... there is an advantage of draining the carbs : to remove any mud or small contaminant that could be in there.
So, I think I'll try that. And I might try it before storage : just to make sure the bowls are clean.
And doing it during a nice september afternoon will be better than in a cold mid-october day.

Speaking of the article on ST-Rider, I've never seen those optional "Fairing Extension" before. o_O
That's interesting.

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I don't want to change the subject of your thread. Just a little aside. ;)
 
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ChriSTian_64 said:
Speaking of the article on ST-Rider, I've never seen those optional "Fairing Extension" before. o_O
That's interesting.
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That was one of the ST1100 'options' - that also included mirror deflectors.
I have a set in storage. ;)
There was also a radio pocket that replaced the left fairing pocket.
And I have the original backrest pad that goes on the ST1100 trunk.
AFAIK, I have about one of everything that went with the ST1100s.
 
As for the carburetor draining procedure, I've found that it should be included as a general maintenance item. No matter how good of a fuel filter you think you have (including the OEM), over time silt accumulates in the float bowls. You can also flush out the bowls easily. Open up all of the float drains and cycle the ignition key numerous times. This runs the fuel pump in 2 second intervals and flushes the silt out of the bowls. Just remember that the vacuum auto fuel valve needs to bypassed or removed for this to work.

Here's a snap of the whole package 64 Christian. Both the fairing and the mirror deflectors. They do work quite well.
I think I bought the very last set years ago at David Silver Spares USA. Right now they are unobtainium. However, once in a while a set will pop up eBay or the European eBay. I just picked up another complete set at Boostra for another ST1100 I'm building.

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Well, I reckon I must be blind but I cannot see the drain screws for the carbs with a really good flashlight.
I even pulled the gas tank shelter so I could get more light in there.
I did figure out of you remove the left side panel and the little gray frame cover, you can pull the drain lines (there are two) outside the frame so it's easier to put them in a jar.
I have looked at a parts diagram exploded and still can't figure it out.
And I have studied the Service Manual (5-18) but it gives no pictures of any value except where to stick the screwdriver.
Any ideas?
 
Next time you pull the carbs, paint the heads of the drain screws white or yellow. I’ve got one of those flashlights with LED bulb on the end of flexible “stalk” that I position to get light right on the screw head. I removed the handle on my screwdriver and installed a “T” crossbar so I can sight right along the shaft to see the screw head easily. FWIW

BTW, my early edition Service Manual came without page 5-18 (jpg avail if you need one).

John
 
I've got that page and I think I finally found one of them. But since they have not been 'moved' since original assembly in 2001, they are not of the 'mind' to be moved now - and I'm afraid they may be made of 'cheese'. I've got to pull the carbs anyway when I do the motor replacement so rather than take a chance of buggering up the screws, I'll just pull the carbs and deal with it that way. I just pumped the gas tank empty (extra Facet pump laying around) which makes tank removal a lot easier. And with the tank out, getting the carbs out is a lot less work (BTDTGTTS). ;) Good idea on painting the drain screws though in the 'normal' course of business I never need to drain them cause I run them year round. I don't know long it will be before I get to replacing the engine so I don't want the carbs messed up from corn squeezin's while she sits there.
 
Uncle Phil said:
And with the tank out, getting the carbs out is a lot less work
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Sure is.

Uncle Phil said:
Well, I reckon I must be blind but I cannot see the drain screws for the carbs with a really good flashlight.
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It's definitely difficult and takes a while. You're not blind Phil.

Uncle Phil said:
pull the drain lines (there are two) outside the frame
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There are 4 drain lines that go into a 4 into 1 connector, then the single carb drain line goes out the bottom.

You likely have all this figured out. I'm amazed you haven't done this like a hundred times !!
 
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