Dumb clutch question?

rwthomas1

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Joined
Jun 6, 2020
Messages
1,181
Location
Rhode Island, USA
Bike
'01 ST1100 non-ABS
Hello,
Looked at all the clutch threads, didn't see the answer so.... The clutch on my ST1100 engages at the very end of the travel. And I do mean the last little bit at the end of releasing the clutch lever. Rolling down the road, just the slightest pull will result in slipping/release. I have heard that the clutches on these are notorious for a very late engagement. But this is almost like a switch. There doesn't appear to be any slip at all under heavy acceleration, high rpm. Truth be told, I don't ride "hard" or accelerate particularly quickly, despite fairly high cruising speeds.

I don't suppose there is any way to make the release more linear? Lever feel is completely normal. No hesitation, tight spots, very smooth.

I'm only asking to see if this bike will need a clutch in the near future. If it's tired, I'll put it on the winter rebuild list.

Thanks, RT
 
Pretty normal sounding to me. Had two different 11s. Both are like that. I bet most people would say the same.

If you want to do anything. Flush and bleed the clutch. Might as well do the brake side too. Oh, check the vertical free play in the lever. I mean try to lift it up and down. Too muck means replacement. Also take the lever off and check the brass pivot. Again, enough wear means replacement. A lot of people overlook this maintenance point.
 
@The Cheese pretty much covered all of the bases. If you read other clutch threads, they will all suggest a bleed/flush first. Its relatively quick and easy and often solves the problem. Besides, it seems a lot of folks don't change the clutch/brake fluid often enough to prevent problems.

Wet clutches last a long time unless abused with drag strip type starts. Sure they wear out, but clutch replacement threads are not a common problem on these bikes.
 
Sounds normal to me, but check the bronze bushing in the lever.

As for general ST1100 info, this article may be helpful...

Article [11] - ST1100 - Basics / Buying Guide | ST1100 Articles

I've not seen a thread like this specific to the ST1100 and thought it would be useful. I know this data is spread through various other threads, wikis and sites, but it would be nice to have in one concise location with at least the basics. I'll add my .02 and others can chime in as well. If...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
Thanks gents! Did the bleed already, when I did the brakes. I can live with the clutch, it just takes finesse to be smooth with such a minimal amount of movement required. Lever is tight and smooth, so I would think it fine. I'm gonna ride it....

RT
 
RT, I agree.....ride.
But....I would take the lever off as already suggested and check the bushing in the lever and actuating point. Also the fixing pin for wear. Having done that lube accordingly on the pivot, fixing pin and not forgetting a little rubber grease on the lever to piston actuating point. It will make things smoother but the clutch will always bite when it's almost all the way out.
All the above will take you two minutes and could improve your ride for little effort. Likewise the brake lever benefits from similar love.
Upt'North.
 
All good points about the brass bushing et al. That might possibly change the location of the friction point slightly but being hydraulic it will still be a very narrow point/zone compared to most cable controlled clutches.
 
Can the lever bushing be checked and lubed without disassembling the clutch master internals? I assume so...

Its an academic exercise, but would decreasing the clutch master cylinder bore diameter improve the feel? Seems like less fluid moved relative to the motion of the lever would give finer control of the clutch actuation? Thinking out loud....

I only ask this as I have had, and currently own, 4 wheel manual transmission vehicles with hydraulic clutches and they all have had nice, linear releases with decent travel. Seems like the sizing of the bores of the hydraulics would make a big difference.

RT
 
rwthomas1 said:
Can the lever bushing be checked and lubed without disassembling the clutch master internals? I assume so...
Click to expand...

Yes, easily. It's a 5 minute job with just a screw driver and 10mm box end or socket.
 
rwthomas1 said:
The clutch on my ST1100 engages at the very end of the travel...
Click to expand...
Been there...
Once you've eliminated all other mechanical issues mentioned above with no satisfying result, I'd befriend myself to the project of renewing the friction plates...
 
I’m not an 1100 guy but hydraulics are my “thang“ and all of the above advice sounds good to me.

One small correction, if I may....there are NO dumb questions. There are only people who are too selfish and/or arrogant to answer innocent queries from newcomers. Very few of those nasty gits seem to hang out here

We are all learning...so ask away.

Pete
 
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When people say 'check the bushing' - it is an excellent idea, but when you check, note that there is a blind hole in one side of the cylindrical brass bush. When you put it together again, the push rod that emerges from the master cylinder is supposed to fit inside that hole. It doesn't just rest on the outside of the bush. To help assemble it (cos you cannot see the hole when putting it together), get a black felt pen or something to make a mark on the top circular end of the brass bush. Draw a mark half way across the top to mark the line of the hole. This will help you to line up the brass bush with the push rod - so that it slips inside the hole.

If the push rod is resting on the outside of the bush, in effect it is always pushing in on the master cylinder, which means that the engagement of the clutch will be at the very end of the travel of the lever.

If it is this, it is an easy fix, but you need to be aware of it. I don't think whoever assembled my current ST1300 knew of this. Brand new. I commented that the clutch lever was tight. He said it was new, its OK. It left me stranded 7 miles into my first ride, and I had to be rescued. As the clutch fluid heated up, it expanded and depressed the clutch just that liitle bit more to make it slip. Eventually I had no drive at all.
 
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One of the problems I have found is the long reach needed for the lever. An adjustable VFR lever helps to bring that reach closer. Note! if you adjust it too close the clutch switch will not activate and you cannot start the bike in gear. Also on some aftermarket levers the switch landing point needs to be built up with some epoxy to achieve the height to activate the switch.
 
Slydynbye said:
One of the problems I have found is the long reach needed for the lever. An adjustable VFR lever helps to bring that reach closer. Note! if you adjust it too close the clutch switch will not activate and you cannot start the bike in gear. Also on some aftermarket levers the switch landing point needs to be built up with some epoxy to achieve the height to activate the switch.
Click to expand...

RIGHT - I installed a nice set of VFR levers and did the adjustment thing and felt all proud of myself. However, I can tell you that not being able to start the bike in gear while holding the clutch in - is a very bad thing.

Picture this purely hypothetical scenario:
  • You trickle out into an intersection to make a left hand turn;
  • For the first time in years, you muff it and stall the engine;
  • You must now screw around getting the bike into neutral while that concrete mixer bears down on you.
Truly, a change of underwear moment.

DAMHIK
 
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MaxPete said:
RIGHT - I installed a nice set of VFR levers and did the adjustment thing and felt all proud of myself. However, I can tell you that not being able to start the bike in gear while holding the clutch in - is a very bad thing.

Picture this purely hypothetical scenario:
  • You trickle out into an intersection to make a left hand turn;
  • For the first time in years, you muff it and stall the engine;
  • You must now screw around getting the bike into neutral while that concrete mixer bears down on you.
Truly, a change of underwear moment.

DAMHIK
Click to expand...

Just more proof that motorcycling can be a cure for occasional constipation....

RT
 
ST Gui said:
Pretty much part and parcel of a hydraulic clutch. It's been like that for every such bike I've had (all Hondas though).
Click to expand...
Both of my Goldwings have had huge clutch friction zones, pretty much 1/2 the distance of the range of motion. Having both a GL1800 and this new to me ST1300 I'm having to be very careful the first few stop & goes when switching bikes because the ST has about a 10 degree friction zone. The first time I got back on the Wing after riding the ST for a couple of days I stalled in the driveway. I was hoping to find a thread about adjusting the clutch . . . I guess I'm dreaming :) Oh, I had the same problem when I test rode a BMW K1600GT . . . fell over while stopped expecting some clutch!
 
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