Ever change a knock sensor on a 1300?

Thanks for putting in the effort.. you may end up finding a fix that is a lot cheaper than a new ECU.
 
skipcurt said:
I did a quick little test in the driveway and then ran it up & down my street a few times hitting up to 5,000 rpm. The light did not come on but I'm pretty sure it will on my next ride given I haven't really fixed anything. All this just to test if the code will now switch to 25.

Skip
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Skip, be sure to keep us posted if you now get a code 25 during a longer test ride, and what the ultimate fix turns out to be.
I'm sure a lot of us will benefit. Of course, it's possible that you've already fixed it without being aware what you did, as there may have been an iffy connection to one of the sensors that was corrected by unplugging and reconnecting a few times during all of your trouble shooting.
 
It would have been much easier to replace the vacuum lines and clean the tee before damaging tools :rolleyes:
 
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Skipcurt, I'm very interested in the outcome of your thread. I just got my ST out of the $hop.... And by the time I got home it was a code 26. I took it in for a crapped out fuel system and 4 yrs of storage and neglect. The shop replaced my whole wiring harness as part of a factory recall. I think step 1 will be to check the connections....

I had hoped to go to Dixie stock next weekend... Can someone explain the downside or possible bad outcome if I continued to ride with a code 26 for a while?
 
Jollymon24 said:
Skipcurt, I'm very interested in the outcome of your thread. I just got my ST out of the $hop.... And by the time I got home it was a code 26. I took it in for a crapped out fuel system and 4 yrs of storage and neglect. The shop replaced my whole wiring harness as part of a factory recall. I think step 1 will be to check the connections....

I had hoped to go to Dixie stock next weekend... Can someone explain the downside or possible bad outcome if I continued to ride with a code 26 for a while?
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Just stay tuned or better yet, subscribe to the thread and you won't miss anything. I've heard of several people riding on a code 26 for quite some time with no negative effects...yet. For me, having that light simply ruins my ride. If it's not on I'm constantly looking down there to see when it comes on because I'm being very hyperfocused on the bike, the mileage, the temperature, the speed, on the throttle/off the throttle and the RPM's trying to dial in if the issue comes at the same time as last. Which it does not.

DavidR8 said:
Have you cleaned the 5-way T?


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That will be next. Hopefully sometime this week. Larry said it early on and we talked on the phone last night as well. I just have to pick up some replacement tubing. Stay tuned everybody!!

Skip
 
Don't believe everything you think :think1:
So, should I go back into his bike and put the goop back into the 5-way tee and tell him that should not have fixed his bike?
On his third tank of fuel and still no codes returned....but if it was unrelated to his code, maybe I should put things back the way they were :rofl1:
 
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Is there any way that a clogged 5-way tee could cause a knock in the engine? Or, what other conditions might cause a knock that the sensor would pick up? Just sitting around wondering. I do that a lot, nowadays.

John
 
I've had a gunked up 5-way T before (see my BTDT reference) I got a code 2. What is the logic that this could result in a knock sensor error which has no vacuum connections? Correlation is not proof of cause as they say.
 
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Nashcat said:
Is there any way that a clogged 5-way tee could cause a knock in the engine? Or, what other conditions might cause a knock that the sensor would pick up? Just sitting around wondering. I do that a lot, nowadays.

John
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If the T was plugged it would not be able to sense manifold vacuum so would show a higher pressure signal to the ECM. Manifold pressure goes down when the throttles are closed so the sensor would tell the ECM (along with other inputs) to reduce fuel delivery. When the throttles are open, manifold pressure goes up and the ECM should add fuel. In the case that the MAP sensor became isolated from the intake pressure due to a clog, pressure would remain high and the ECM would tend to add more fuel? If so, the richer than ideal mixture should combat knocking as it would have a combustion chamber cooling effect. I have a tough time believing that an isolated MAP sensor would not throw a code 2 though. I don't think mine was completely blocked as the problem was intermittent and I was getting the FI code immediately.
 
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