Exhaust clamp rust prevention...?

byebyebusas

byebyebusas

Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
43
Location
Surrey, UK
Bike
ST1300
Whilst taking off and replacing the tupperware to fix a wiring issue one of the rear exhaust clamps fell off! This is a bit worrying as I had the bike checked by a Honda dealer before I bought it (second hand) and they noted a rusted exhaust clamp - which they replaced! The one that fell off is the next one along - just 4" or so away from the one they replaced less than 250 miles ago. The third clamp is well rusted and needs replacing as well (although still hanging on for now).

I have checked the forums and there are a number of threads/posts where the rusting of clamps is mentioned, but none seem to suggest a prevention mehod. Would exhaust wrap work? Has anyone tried the spring and swing arm protector from ST-Accessories: http://www.st1300-accessories.co.uk/st1100_shock_protect.html ? Did it help protect the exhaust (it does not look like it goes low enough)? Has anyone created a protector from, say, 4mm rally mudflap material?

Also do you reckon it is water from the rear wheel, or water from the front running along the lower plastic and whipping up onto the clamps, that causes the rusting?
:04biker: :rain1:
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

Not much more could be done due to the environment it lives in (hot/cold). Just an occasional replace item to be inspected whenever you pull the rear wheel.
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

I live in rust country. If there was a real prevention for rust, someone would be extremely rich. Exhaust systems are the perfect breeding grounds for rust. The metal gets so hot paint won't stay on it for long, resulting in bare metal. Exhausts hang low, so they get all the moisture off the road. Add oxygen (air) and you get rust. Add in heat, and the rust happens much quicker. All you can do is check the clamps on a regular basis.

The ones on my '06 fell apart when I tried to remove them to replace the mufflers. I replaced them with cheap auto part's store clamps. $4 for both clamps sure beats what Honda gets! You can also buy band clamps similar to OEM Honda at a much lower price as well, but they are higher than the cheap U-bolts I bought. These will work fine for me, and they are cheap enough I'll change them with each tire change (when I have to rotate one muffler anyway).
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

Indeed - time and weather claim everything eventually.

I suppose I find it odd that of all the cars I have owned (including some high milage ones and running one for 130k miles from new in all weathers) I have never had an exhaust clamp rust through. I have seen a hanger rust and break but not clamps. It seems the positioning of all these connections right in the main flow of water is a particular issue for bikes (and three clamps in close proximity on the ST). I therefore hoped someone may have found a 'delaying tactic' by diverting the quantity of water ( as this seems to be the main difference between cars and this bike design...car exhausts tend to be in the centre of the car and not in line with the wheels).
I once had a Saab 900 turbo 16S and it had small plastic flaps just forward of the rear wheels and angled outwards - these were designed (I believe) to shed water running along the sills to reduce the amount deposited in front of the rear wheels to reduce the likelihood of aquaplaning. Something similar could be fashioned on the lower tupperware of the ST. If no one has done it yet I might give it a go...oh and find some of those cheaper clamps as well - thanks for that.
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

Called Honda dealer out of interest. The clamps are all slightly different to each other. The right and left ones are each ?25.87+VAT and the centre one is ?21.77+VAT. That's ?88.21 to replace all three without changing the gaskets. They are apparently chrome plated steel rather than stainless steel. Called my local motorbike garage (Steve Jordan Motorcycles in Bookham (Surrey, UK)) and they do a variety of clamp sizes at ?4.99 each including VAT. Ride in and they provide the ones that fit - and they are stainless steel!
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

To get the rear axle bolt out, if you have stock mufflers the right one can be twisted down out of the way to clear it rather than taking it all the way off. I didn't have to do that when I had the Two Brothers mufflers, but with the originals, the right one has to be moved to clear the bolt. So since I have to loosen the clamp anyway, I'll just throw a pair on when its time for tires. I'd rather replace them before they get bad enough to have to be cut off...or fall off on their own.
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

If someone has found a stainless steel aftermarket alternative that looks good, please post up.

For now I have OEM on order, will last another 4 years.
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

Pete in PA said:
If someone has found a stainless steel aftermarket alternative that looks good, please post up.

For now I have OEM on order, will last another 4 years.
Click to expand...
I have gone for Race can clamps (59-63mm on the outer clamps and 47-?mm on the middle one (sorry receipt does not print the final figure and I have thrown the packaging!)). They are stainless steel screw clamps (Jubilee/Banjo clamp style) rather than the chuncky car 'U' bolt variety which some others use. They are reasonably elegant and seem to do the job.
They are stainless steel - originally supplied by C&C motorcycle products of Birmingham UK. I got them from Steve Jordan Motorcycles in Bookham in Surrey ?4.99GBP each - http://www.stevejordanmotorcycles.co.uk/ (they don't have much on-line yet but great service if you turn up). The guys came out with their calipers and measured before recommending these clamps. They look similar to the OEMs but have just one tightening bolt rather than two. I have only just put them on but as an OEM clamp was put on the right side the day before I got the bike I should be able to do a long term test of OEM right side and aftermarket left side both fitted within 1 month of each other. Will let you know how it goes in about 4 years hopefully!!
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

byebyebusas said:
Will let you know how it goes in about 4 years hopefully!!
Click to expand...

Well it wasn't quite 4 years! Went to remove the exhaust silencers the other day and the Honda official part had rusted right through and cracked. When I went to open it up the metal was rusted and brittle and the other side cracked as well - pretty much fell in half. The other two stainless steel non-Honda clamps fitted only a couple of months later are still flexible and strong - both undid with a couple of drops of WD and will be re-used. The Honda one lasted all of 18 months in sunny Surrey (England).
 
I'll bet you ten to one that the joint that clamp was keeping together is rusted together and probably doesn't even need a clamp now. :eek:4:
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

They are going to eventually rust out, but in the meantime, I use antisieze on the threads to keep from breaking the bolts off while trying to get them loose.
 
Re: Ehaust clamp rust prevention...?

byebyebusas said:
The Honda one lasted all of 18 months in sunny Surrey (England).
Click to expand...
You could probably simply adopt the installation and maintenance procedures of us ole' ST1100 owners:
a) upon installation all the surfaces (also in- and outside of the clamps) and bolt-threads see a good smear of copper-slip (lubrication also eases installation, adjustment and setting of parts...)
b) on any occasion the rear wheel comes out, not only apply some Moly lube on the drive-splines, also apply a good dosage of "copper spray" on the entire area of those exhaust clamps while at it.

Since I'm following this for a couple of years now (definitely more then 10 ;-) ) I never had a snapped clamp-bolt or corrosion issues in this area...
And also I "rotate" the silencers down whenever removing the rear axle nut (+ the stop-bolt for the calliper-plate)
 
I don't even bother loosening mine up. A little pressure and it will rotate enough to get the axle out.
 
The exhausts rotated easily and came out once I had removed the clamps. I put them back in with new original Honda seals (having cleaned up the pipes). Could not get a decent seal on the right hand side. Kept blowing no matter what I did. Had to resort to exhaust jointing paste to get a good seal. New non-Honda clamp now on the right side. Took the opportunity to paint the header pipes with exhaust paint (Pot black) all the way back to the centre join while I was at it in the hopes it may increase their life a bit. I've used ACF50 on all the bolts and clamps (having read through a number of other threads and seen this stuff recommended a lot). If that doesn't work I'll try spraying in copper spray on the next set!
 
byebyebusas said:
The exhausts rotated easily and came out once I had removed the clamps. I put them back in with new original Honda seals (having cleaned up the pipes). Could not get a decent seal on the right hand side. Kept blowing no matter what I did. Had to resort to exhaust jointing paste to get a good seal. New non-Honda clamp now on the right side. Took the opportunity to paint the header pipes with exhaust paint (Pot black) all the way back to the centre join while I was at it in the hopes it may increase their life a bit. I've used ACF50 on all the bolts and clamps (having read through a number of other threads and seen this stuff recommended a lot). If that doesn't work I'll try spraying in copper spray on the next set!
Click to expand...

I like the idea of spraying them with the copper spray (not sure what that is) but now that I know this is a problem, I'll hit them with anti seize when I change the oil.

Just a thought. I've seen high temp paint for engines and the like, and it comes in a number of colors. Might this help prevent corrosion? Only problem I can think of using it is this paint usually comes in a spray can and might make a mess applying it.
 
SMSW said:
I like the idea of spraying them with the copper spray (not sure what that is) but now that I know this is a problem, I'll hit them with anti seize when I change the oil.
...
Click to expand...

Permatex Copper antiseize... or better yet, nickel antiseize for very high temperatures. But I use more common lithium grease...quite sufficient for the band clamp bolts.
 
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