Final Drive (Shaft) Oil Change

st1300r said:
Hypoid shaped gears are not on the same axis kind of a spiral shape and don't engage all at once like a noisy straight cut gear like the counter balancers that make the whiny ST noise. On axis would be a bevel gear. "hypoid" oil is another way of saying EP "extreme pressure" oil additive package. Moly is an EP additive that deals with high pressure and slow relative movement between surfaces as opposed to say a high speed relative movement like a ball bearing and its race.

The interwebs suggests the weight scale of gear oil is purposely different so you're not likely to confuse oils. An 80wt "gear" oil might really be a 40wt "motor" oil viscosity or close but it's called 80wt so you aren't tempted to use a "motor" oil that would have an inappropriate additive package.
Click to expand...

+1 That's what I learned on my Google search.
 
st1300r said:
........ An 80wt "gear" oil might really be a 40wt "motor" oil viscosity or close but it's called 80wt so you aren't tempted to use a "motor" oil that would have an inappropriate additive package.
Click to expand...

Suspected that back when I was rebuilding GL1000's. Hypoid felt like 40wt...just smelled different. But, that was what Mr Honda recommended. so....
 
RaYzerman said:
Well, it certainly won't hurt, but gear oil lasts forever. You could go way over 24K without a problem, but I wouldn't. I would agree changing it first time around 12K with synthetic (to get the initial break-in metal out).... Environmentally, it is a waste at every oil change IMHO.
Click to expand...
Environmentally My a__ !! All the waste oil gets recycled, it's not like we are dumping the stuff down the drain...
 
BTW, I need to find out why my local quickie oil change business isn't accepting waste oil anymore. I heard they were getting about a buck a gallon for it.
 
Al st1100 said:
Environmentally My a__ !! All the waste oil gets recycled, it's not like we are dumping the stuff down the drain...
Click to expand...

That line of thinking fails to recognize the pollution costs associated with the production and processing of the crude oil in the beginning. The more oil we send to the recyclers means more has to be extracted from the ground and there are still pollution costs at the recycling end as well. That's what makes synthetic oils a better choice, since they last in service 3 to 4 times longer than dino oil, meaning less oil needs to be extracted from the Earth.
 
On my newly bought (two weeks) ST1300 from 2007 i had replaced the final gear oil twice. It had 33400 miles on the meter (54000km)
I use Motul 300: https://www.motul.com/se/sv/products/oils-lubricants/gear-300-75w90

I was "dirty" oil when i drained it. Also had to remove alot of dirt from the bolt.

Now i have drive 300 miles and changed the oil in the final drive one more time. It is stil dirty oil coming out!

I also noticed a sound (Like a wounded dog) when i drive exessively on small road with alot of turns.

I have also changed the rear brakes and cleaned them so that should not be a problem.

What is weared down if you dont switch oil in the final drive?

I have all the stamps( marking) in the service book, i will never ever trust them again! Why do bikeshops do that? It is soo much worse to have a bad reputation than change a small amount of oil in the final drive......
 
The "dirt" you see on the magnetic bolt is actually very fine metal shavings, coming off the ring gears in there. The ST final drives have proven quite "bulletproof", in that very few ever fail. The dirty oil you saw on your second oil change may have been caused by the residue left from the first oil change, since it had been left so long. Using a good synthetic gear oil in there is the best idea, which the Motul appears to be. The sounds you hear on the twisty road could be coming from the tires.
 
Bush said:
The sounds you hear on the twisty road could be coming from the tires.
Click to expand...
+1... likely cupped tire...

But IMHO is there also is deviation in MFG tolerance; whilst the f/drive of my prev '92 (as well as the '94 I also own) was/is completely silent under all operating conditions, will the gears of the '00 ST1100 emit a silent, pulsing whine while coasting/slowing at low speeds (like when slowing down at a junction, in 2nd gear or with clutch pulled, same sound)...
That's there from day one, has been claimed, the final drive taken apart under warranty, remeasured, slapped back together, no change, same noise...
 
I used to get that slip additive for some vehicles, talk about stink......get that on your hands or clothes, and I don't care how much you wash, you will smell it for days.....
 
ST1100Y said:
+1... likely cupped tire...

But IMHO is there also is deviation in MFG tolerance; whilst the f/drive of my prev '92 (as well as the '94 I also own) was/is completely silent under all operating conditions, will the gears of the '00 ST1100 emit a silent, pulsing whine while coasting/slowing at low speeds (like when slowing down at a junction, in 2nd gear or with clutch pulled, same sound)...
That's there from day one, has been claimed, the final drive taken apart under warranty, remeasured, slapped back together, no change, same noise...
Click to expand...
ring and pinions are checked in a couple of different ways, pre loads on carrier and pinion bearings, wear patterns under different loads(pinion depth). If all are in spec there could be a mismatched ring and pinion. Try some sawdust or banana peals, it works good in used car lots(joke)
 
forth said:
On my newly bought (two weeks) ST1300 from 2007 i had replaced the final gear oil twice. It had 33400 miles on the meter (54000km)
I use Motul 300: https://www.motul.com/se/sv/products/oils-lubricants/gear-300-75w90

I was "dirty" oil when i drained it. Also had to remove alot of dirt from the bolt.

Now i have drive 300 miles and changed the oil in the final drive one more time. It is stil dirty oil coming out!

I also noticed a sound (Like a wounded dog) when i drive exessively on small road with alot of turns.

I have also changed the rear brakes and cleaned them so that should not be a problem.

What is weared down if you dont switch oil in the final drive?

I have all the stamps( marking) in the service book, i will never ever trust them again! Why do bikeshops do that? It is soo much worse to have a bad reputation than change a small amount of oil in the final drive......
Click to expand...
final drive noises are usually characterized by whines or howls noticed with load changes. Wheel bearing or tire noise would more consistent, a wheel bearing could be louder on turns when the load is greater on the bad spot. Tires get cupped on edges and when leaning could cause noise ... I agree with Bush- check your tires carefully
 
Al st1100 said:
ring and pinions are checked in a couple of different ways, pre loads on carrier and pinion bearings, wear patterns under different loads(pinion depth).
Click to expand...
The proper procedure would be disassemble, clean all, apply Prussian blue on the tooth flanks, assemble, rotate the gears, take it apart again, check the contact pattern, re-shim accordingly, test again, etc, etc... till you achieve the perfectly centred, oval contact patch...
Would require to have the full set of f/drive shims at hand though...
 
I figure change the oil every 5000 and the final gear every 20000. It's easy to remember and is pretty much by the book.
 
I figure change the oil every 5000 and the final gear every 20000. It's easy to remember and is pretty much by the book.
 
Like some others do, I change the final drive oil whenever I change the rear tire. Makes it easy to remember.

Bill
 
ST1100Y said:
The proper procedure would be disassemble, clean all, apply Prussian blue on the tooth flanks, assemble, rotate the gears, take it apart again, check the contact pattern, re-shim accordingly, test again, etc, etc... till you achieve the perfectly centred, oval contact patch...
Would require to have the full set of f/drive shims at hand though...
Click to expand...

Prussion Blue is not recommended, only gear marking compound is , to show the contact pattern properly.

See : Page 8 in this PDF Document
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom