First ride on my 1993 ST1100

Joined
Oct 3, 2025
Messages
19
Age
70
Location
Tulsa, Ok
Bike
93 ST1100
I bit off the big one, I live in Tulsa, Ok and purchased a 93 ST1100 from a motorcycle shop in Houston. I flew down two days ago and began the 507 mile ride back to Tulsa. I hit the Houston lunch traffic which was bumper to bumper for about 4 miles. Once I got out of Houston, I was headed for Dallas. The bike performed great while at highway speeds but it was idling between 2200 and 3000rpms at that point. The owner of the bike was the motorcycles owner and had upgraded to the ST1300. I wanted the 94 and older because I got killer insurance from Haggerty because it was 30 yrs old or more. By the time I got to Dallas, of course I hit rush hour traffic. The temp gauge kept climbing which I thought was a big problem. Now, I know that as long as it stays under 3/4 on the gauge, it's probably not a problem. 21 miles of bumper to bumper traffic, I was looking to go city roads to mitigate the rising temp of the bike and the high idle. My rear was already sooooo sore, the temperature was in the 90's and I'm just trying to get home alive. I finally got through Dallas 3 hours later and was hot and exhausted. The good part was I was getting 45mpg. The bad part was I had 270 miles to get home. I found that if I stopped every 1.5-2 hrs for about 15 min, empty the bladder and walk around for a few, I was ready for a bit more punishment. The stock seat seemed comfy for about 30 min, then the discomfort came. My thighs where they hit the seat was super uncomfortable. I weathered on. I thought I would be home before dark. Lol. I didn't have a jacket, just a long sleeve T-shirt. I got really cold for the last three hours. When I hit Oklahoma, the idle problem had resolved itself. My guess was the bike had been sitting in their showroom for a year and possibly the old gas had gelatinized on the carb slides. Maybe the heat of the day with new gas through the carbs melted the good from the sticking slides at idle. My phone had died so my family didn't know what was going on. I finally made it home at 1130pm, some 13 hours later riding and the first thing I did was to go get my down coat to warm up. Anyway, it idles great now and it took me two days to get revitalized. Here are some pics at a rest stop somewhere in Texas. One full day and my new ride was in my garage. Yay.
 

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Well, just like a decades old bed mattress the foam in the ~30 year old seat has aged and collapsed, causing you to sit nearly 'un-cushioned' on the hard plastic seat-pan...
BTDT, didn't even notice it slowly degrading over the years and years of usage... but as the vinyl on one of my ST's seats cracked, I installed a previously unused NOS saddle I had in storage... once I mounted that old '94 with a "brand new" seat I went like WOW!!!
So getting a new saddle makes a huge difference... which even convinced me to invest in a custom Top Sellerie saddle with gel-insert for my other '00 ST1100... fully worth it...

Many others will chime in with tips and recommendations, like how to tension your thighs and lower torso muscles just slightly to unload your wrists on the bar, etc...
And scrolling through the infinite archives in this forum might also enlighten in this or the other topic...
 
Welcome to the forum.
There is a remote possibility that you may have an overheating issue, the key is “remote possibility”. It’s a an easy check and fix. Have a look at the overflow hose that comes out at the 1 o’clock position from the radiator fill cap. If you turn the handlebars to the full left lock you will be able to get a reasonable view of the cap. Look at that hose, you’re looking for any signs of coolant leakage cracks in the hose at the fitting. If nothing that’s excellent. If you do, then you will need to remove some Tupperware. Remove side panels, shelter and the right fairing pocket. Remove the overflow hose, cut it back about an inch depending on how compromised the hose is. Reconnect the hose to the fitting, top up the reservoir, reinstall the Tupperware.
Enjoy the ride.
 
Sorry for the "memorable" ride home, but that's Texas for ya. I've ridden from Brownsville to D/FW via Houston and once was enough, realized I'm not a long-distance rider. My 95 was bone stock too, original seat, no handlebar riser, so my wrists and shoulders bore the brunt of it. Once I fixed those, I've loved the ST ever since.

One other thing to check about the overheating is to inspect the seal surface under the rad cap. If the metal has blackened corrosion spots along that edge, it can prevent full pressurization and leakage. You can try and use a small, fine file or scotch-brite pad to smooth it so it'll seal.
 
Welcome aboard! That was quite a first ride, glad you made it home safely if a bit worn out. First thing you need to do on a new old bike is change all the fluids, perhaps the battery if its 3 years old+, check the age of the tires, etc. etc.

This might help. (I know you didn't ask.)
 
Look into getting electronic cruise control, that reduces fatigue. Eventually you will be able to do 500 miles 800 kms per day without hesitation.
I have Helibars, a Corbin saddle, Rostra cruise control….i will take breaks every two hours (I’m old and my bladder reminds me of it) I max out at the 14 hour mark of saddle time….10 hours is a good comfortable day for me on an ST1100. Just sayin’
 
You've got yourself one of THE best bikes Honda ever built for sport touring and IF you plan to do any long distance tours, I and many others can tell you that a custom saddle is the only way to go. Ride literally all day with nary a twinge in the butt or thighs on a Russell Day Long saddle. Not cheap mind you, but worth every penny for long distance comfort. One trip could be to their factory in Northern California have your saddle built to your spec in one day.

 
Well, just like a decades old bed mattress the foam in the ~30 year old seat has aged and collapsed, causing you to sit nearly 'un-cushioned' on the hard plastic seat-pan...
BTDT, didn't even notice it slowly degrading over the years and years of usage... but as the vinyl on one of my ST's seats cracked, I installed a previously unused NOS saddle I had in storage... once I mounted that old '94 with a "brand new" seat I went like WOW!!!
So getting a new saddle makes a huge difference... which even convinced me to invest in a custom Top Sellerie saddle with gel-insert for my other '00 ST1100... fully worth it...

Many others will chime in with tips and recommendations, like how to tension your thighs and lower torso muscles just slightly to unload your wrists on the bar, etc...
And scrolling through the infinite archives in this forum might also enlighten in this or the other topic...
I am going to get one of those. They look great and with gel in it too, it should be luxurious. I took all the plastic off today to check things and the radiator cap rubber was cracked in 4 places and the overflow rubber at the radiator cap was cracked, so I did what you all suggested and cut an inch off it and reattached it. I bet those two issues were causing my 'getting hotter than normal' issue. The fan is working and no obvious leaks. I did the old paper towel trick in front of the radiator. When the fan kicked on, it held the paper towel against the radiator. It should be ready for a test ride tomorrow.
 
You've got yourself one of THE best bikes Honda ever built for sport touring and IF you plan to do any long distance tours, I and many others can tell you that a custom saddle is the only way to go. Ride literally all day with nary a twinge in the butt or thighs on a Russell Day Long saddle. Not cheap mind you, but worth every penny for long distance comfort. One trip could be to their factory in Northern California have your saddle built to your spec in one day.

Thank you much. I will check them out too.
 
Welcome to the forum and what a fantastic first post. Good on you for taking the beating from the heat, seat, traffic, and making it home while bonding with your new steed.
Thank you Sunday Rider. It was a cool experience. Glad I did it and glad it's over too. I also took the advice of someone on the site to use a 94 Honda Accord radiator cap for 15 bucks. The depth into the housing was the same and tomorrow I will see if it holds pressure correctly. I will attach the part no, the SKU and the price from AutoZone.
 

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Welcome aboard! That was quite a first ride, glad you made it home safely if a bit worn out. First thing you need to do on a new old bike is change all the fluids, perhaps the battery if its 3 years old+, check the age of the tires, etc. etc.

This might help. (I know you didn't ask.)
Thank you SMSW, great minds think alike. The battery is new, tires are 90% and installed 1yr ago. Just changed the coolant, the clutch cylinder, tightened lots of bolts and will be doing plugs and oil change next week. After that, I will do a carb job and clean all the jets, bowls, check for cracks in the slide diaphragms, lube all the cables and synchronize. I checked the starter relay, no crusties or burnt terminals, even with the 28amp alternator. I am going to get a voltmeter with USBC ports to keep my phone charged and keep an eye on the alternator that way. When it starts to fail, I will need help doing the 40 amp upgrade, but until then, I'm going to ride and enjoy it.
 
Couple of cheaper alternatives: If the bars are an issue, check the link for the ‘flip clip’ riser mod (on this forum), and if you didn’t want to spring for a new seat (they can be pricey), you can use the BadAssMoto mesh pad (I have one and it’s like $30 on Amazon- makes any seat pretty comfortable) and the BeadRider can be used on the seat as well (so air blows under you when riding). Lastly, if you’re tall, there are several mods to lower the pegs just a bit. Knock off GW pegs typically lower the foot position ~ 0.75” and Knight Designs have lowered pegs (nice but expensive). You have a nice bike- enjoy it!
 
Welcome to the forum.
There is a remote possibility that you may have an overheating issue, the key is “remote possibility”. It’s a an easy check and fix. Have a look at the overflow hose that comes out at the 1 o’clock position from the radiator fill cap. If you turn the handlebars to the full left lock you will be able to get a reasonable view of the cap. Look at that hose, you’re looking for any signs of coolant leakage cracks in the hose at the fitting. If nothing that’s excellent. If you do, then you will need to remove some Tupperware. Remove side panels, shelter and the right fairing pocket. Remove the overflow hose, cut it back about an inch depending on how compromised the hose is. Reconnect the hose to the fitting, top up the reservoir, reinstall the Tupperware.
Enjoy the ride.
Thanks Kiltman. I just did that today, overflow tube was cracked at the end of the nipple, cut it an inch and reattached, got a radiator cap from AutoZone for a 94 Accord and checked for the overflow nipple for blockages. It was wide open which is great. I will test it tomorrow. No leaks in the cooling system were obvious. Duralast radiator cap no 7516 and sku no 9596 for 13.99 + tax, so about 15 dollars. The rubber seal on the cap had four big cracks in the rubber gasket, so thanks to you guys for great info and tips.
 
Couple of cheaper alternatives: If the bars are an issue, check the link for the ‘flip clip’ riser mod (on this forum), and if you didn’t want to spring for a new seat (they can be pricey), you can use the BadAssMoto mesh pad (I have one and it’s like $30 on Amazon- makes any seat pretty comfortable) and the BeadRider can be used on the seat as well (so air blows under you when riding). Lastly, if you’re tall, there are several mods to lower the pegs just a bit. Knock off GW pegs typically lower the foot position ~ 0.75” and Knight Designs have lowered pegs (nice but expensive). You have a nice bike- enjoy it!
Thanks Erdoc48, that's a great idea on the mesh pad and I will check on the pegs. I don't care for what the previous owner did which was put pegs on top of the stock crash bars with the plastic cover, so that is a great. upgrade. Best part, the bike only has 44k on it.
 
I am going to get a voltmeter with USBC ports to keep my phone charged and keep an eye on the alternator that way. When it starts to fail, I will need help doing the 40 amp upgrade, but until then, I'm going to ride and enjoy it.
Parts for the 40 amp upgrade are getting scarce. You might plan ahead and start gathering parts. Should you not use them, you can almost certainly sell them here in a year or few.




 
I am going to get one of those. They look great and with gel in it too, it should be luxurious. I took all the plastic off today to check things and the radiator cap rubber was cracked in 4 places and the overflow rubber at the radiator cap was cracked, so I did what you all suggested and cut an inch off it and reattached it. I bet those two issues were causing my 'getting hotter than normal' issue. The fan is working and no obvious leaks. I did the old paper towel trick in front of the radiator. When the fan kicked on, it held the paper towel against the radiator. It should be ready for a test ride tomorrow.
My fan on my 11 rarely kicked on. Id get a new radiator cap. It isnt as expensive as being stuck on the side of the road.
Parts for the 40 amp upgrade are getting scarce. You might plan ahead and start gathering parts. Should you not use them, you can almost certainly sell them here in a year or few.




wasnt there a guy here that had the adapter plate?
 
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