Fixing up an old ST1100

Joined
Feb 26, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Alabama
Got an 1999 ST1100 with a rebuilt title a few months ago. It had been dropped and suffered a few minor calamities: assorted scratches, cracked windshield, busted mirror pod, and bent PIAA light mount. Couldn't beat the price though so I set about fixing it up.

I finally got around to getting all the parts. I replaced the mirror pod, added a medium Rifle windshield, and changed the oil, coolant, and air filter (old one was 8 years old!), but hardest part was finding a replacement mount for the PIAA light. Turned out the difficulty was that the mounts on my bike were actually siren mounts for the police version of the bike. It's an official Honda part, but only comes in white. After painting and installing them, the bike looks and rides great.
 

Attachments

  • st-1.jpg
    st-1.jpg
    20.9 KB · Views: 33
  • st-2.jpg
    st-2.jpg
    25.8 KB · Views: 30
  • st-3.jpg
    st-3.jpg
    16 KB · Views: 29
  • st-4.jpg
    st-4.jpg
    10.5 KB · Views: 26
  • st-5.jpg
    st-5.jpg
    22.1 KB · Views: 45
Last edited:
That is great that you took an old girl and got it back on the road, looks great. Now get out and enjoy it.
 
You might want to take a look at the brake pads if you haven't already done so, bleed the brake fluid from the brakes and clutch unless you know or are reasonably confident that's been done within the past year of so, then ride some more. How does it ride - start easily and run well?
Looks like you have a winner!
 
You might want to take a look at the brake pads if you haven't already done so, bleed the brake fluid from the brakes and clutch unless you know or are reasonably confident that's been done within the past year of so, then ride some more. How does it ride - start easily and run well?
Looks like you have a winner!
That's on the agenda for this weekend. The front brake feels tight, but the rear is a bit spongy. Going to bleed the lines and check the wear on the pads. Would have done it already, but when I started, I noticed that the ST1100 takes DOT4. And that unopened bottle of brake fluid in my garage is DOT3, of course. :doh1:
 
That's on the agenda for this weekend. The front brake feels tight, but the rear is a bit spongy. Going to bleed the lines and check the wear on the pads. Would have done it already, but when I started, I noticed that the ST1100 takes DOT4. And that unopened bottle of brake fluid in my garage is DOT3, of course. :doh1:
.
.....both compatible with each other;).
 
Nothing more satisfying than fixing up a perfectly good motorcycle. She's a keeper for sure. Best wishes with it...

One note of interest: I see it had an old Ford Fram auto air filter in it. I hope you put an OEM back in it. Remember that if you put another Fram back in, they are a little restrictive and they dont last that long....
 
But so as not to mislead the OP into using it, the DOT3 has a lower boiling point than DOT4. DOT4 generally recommended for disc brake applications

Very true, but not having as much friction surfaces as automotive, and unless he plans on doing 'track days', VERY doubtful it would be an issue. BTW, most brake fluid manufacturers bottles(not all) have DOT 3 and 4 on bottle anyways. Bettin' if tested, there'd be NO actual difference between the two. I'm sure there's interweb mumble jumble with important looking numbers and intelligent sounding language stating otherwise..........which I call urban myths, and is just some more important scientist than he/she really is sounding important to 'put a feather in their hat'...........Some seem to forget 'real world' and the lab are two different worlds. Okay, I'm off my 'soapbox'.:).
 
Top Bottom