I can't get "Pro Honda SS-7 fork oil " in this town. The local MC dealer has Motul fork oil. 5w and 10w and maybe 7.5w ,I belive . Normal riding /comfort , twisty roads -from good to bad shape. Loaded weight 100 kg total. What would come closest to the Honda SS-7 oil ? Thanks !
Fork Oil for ST1100 ABS ?
- Thread starter JJames
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Can’t compare exactly which weight SS-7 to motul(types) or other brands of suspension fluids, you can refer to the charts and choose similar or slightly different specs.
https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/
I’m using belray 10wt personally as the factory weight is abit soft for my liking after I replaced my stock front springs with aftermarket years ago.
https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/
I’m using belray 10wt personally as the factory weight is abit soft for my liking after I replaced my stock front springs with aftermarket years ago.
Uncle Phil
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When I had my ABSII front forks built with Racetech stuff, they used 15w Belray fork oil.
But I like my front forks to be a little stiff since I'm a big guy and usually haul stuff.
But I like my front forks to be a little stiff since I'm a big guy and usually haul stuff.
When I replaced the fork springs in my 2006 Wing with the Traxxion Springs 15 wt. is what was recommended by Traxxion so that is what I used. Yes a tad stiff but so much better than bottoming out on little of nothing. So I’m with Uncle Phil on the 15 wt. fork oil. Ken
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JJames
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Ok , might need some help : Right fork legg off. lossend the top cap -not taken off . Everything looks good. But I don't like the feel of the allen 6mm plug - either spins or it might be worn. Haven't pushed my luck with it . Does it need to come off to dismantle the fork ?? , Dosent leek -if there is oil in there .The plan is to also change seals and bushings - and clean up.
Uncle Phil
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Got an air ratchet (also known as impact driver
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sounds like you're going to need an impact driver or impact wrench to break it loose.
if you're planning on changing seals/bushings like you mentioned earlier, then yes. What you're calling the "plug" is actually the retaining screw that holds the fork slider to the lower tube. After the screw is removed you can then pull the two pieces apart.
For a simple oil change I think the ABS II forks don't have a "drain hole" like the non-ABS forks have, so after you pour the majority of the oil out the top I'm not sure what's the best way to pump that last bit of remaining oil out of the bottom of the fork. Probably turn the fork upside down and support it to let the remaining oil drain out the top.
Since you're disassembling this time around that screw has to come out anyway, but for practice on a future oil-only replacement, try pumping it very gently after loosening the screw, but don't remove it completely. That might be another way to get that last bit of remaining oil out of the bottom of the fork.
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JJames
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Thanks. Got left side bottom alen head bolt out . Used the impact gun on low torque - both - ways a few times , and gradually increasing the power . I hope , the technic will work on the right side also.
Did the bolt you removed have any signs of thread locker being applied? If so, don't put any on when you re-assemble, its not necessary and makes the job much more difficult the next time. If you're not the original owner its possible someone else put some on in the past.
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JJames
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No lock tight. The copper washer was squished pretty flat. The bolt has a flange -looks original. My New YSS don't seem right though. They are ca 2 cm shorter ,and a little smaller diameter than the originals. Says For ST1100 96- 43mm on the box . I don't know what the story is with them. The originals are to spec , so I think I'll go with them.
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So dwalby, you’re saying you can’t drain ABS II forks without removing them and inverting?
I'm not 100% sure because I own a non-ABS, but I recall hearing that here over the years.
parts fiche seems to support that as well. non-ABS has parts 49/43 which appear to be the drain bolt and washer, ABS II doesn't show those in the diagram
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JJames
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Well I did a googled part nr of the new springs :YSS PR340I090-120S465X , and they are for post 96 ST1100. They don't hide fact that the dimension of the springs are not the same. They shorter ,46 cm, a little smaller dia , and of course better.
There are many discussions on fork oil. Many use (and I have) synthetic atf. It's about 7.5 viscosity, has anti foaming agents, more wear additives. Had my st for 3 years with no fork problems and rode much better than stock fork oil.
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JJames
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Yss springs. In the name of ST1100 science I put the yss springs on - If I live to tell, I can always go back. YSS web site calls for a 15cm air gap and 10w oil for the ST11. So thats what I did. The right leg took 700ml and the left 650. A bit more than original set up. They are not back on the ST yet. But they are definitely a lot stiffer or "firm" as Yss calls it. That said the amount drained out of the forks was low , about 400 and 300ml. Not that I complained ,but it was kind of mushy .I guess. Excited !
Photo from the touch up shop.
Photo from the touch up shop.
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James, I’m assuming you have a abs2 with lbs/tcs/abs?
Since you said YSS springs is -2cm shorter, is the bike front end sitting lower now?
If YSS does not specified changing spacers/collars length, then I suspect front preload might change lower, when I replaced my springs from factory to progressive suspension, aftermarket springs was longer hence PS recommended to cut a spacer ~83mm to replace original longer spacer in non cartridge side leg.
You probably could do this fine tuning later on without removing the forks from bike later on if you find the front end sitting lower.
Hopefully the oil height specified by Yss is correct as well, as I think most of us goes by the factory height/oil setting measurements with springs out. Enjoy your ride!
Since you said YSS springs is -2cm shorter, is the bike front end sitting lower now?
If YSS does not specified changing spacers/collars length, then I suspect front preload might change lower, when I replaced my springs from factory to progressive suspension, aftermarket springs was longer hence PS recommended to cut a spacer ~83mm to replace original longer spacer in non cartridge side leg.
You probably could do this fine tuning later on without removing the forks from bike later on if you find the front end sitting lower.
Hopefully the oil height specified by Yss is correct as well, as I think most of us goes by the factory height/oil setting measurements with springs out. Enjoy your ride!
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JJames
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Yes , tcs/abs. I don't think it will have be lower . All though the springs are 2 cm shorter , they are still compressed inside the forks - and the forks are expanded to max length/ same length as with original set up. - at least while on the work bench. Now on the bike - in theory it could go either way , Bike could sit higher or lower depending on how much the springs compress standing still . I hope Yss did their home work .