Good video . I also wished that too. But the damper rod is no big deal . It's fasten by the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork and slides out with the top cap ,spring and everything .There is a little aluminum cup that the allen head bolt goes thru, under the damper rod-so that one is loose . The trick is when assembling (first time). To drain the damper ,you have to pump it ,and to do that the spring has to come off and to do that -the cap must off. To take the cap off the damper rod -there is a nut (14mm) under that locks them together. You will figger it out. As in the video, when putting together ,you fasten the damper rod -with out the spring (don't forget the little cup) with the allen head bolt and new washer at the bottom - you might not get it very tight at this stage . Fill oil and pump the D rod till its has sooth action - now sett oil level ,without the spring inserted. Now Put spring,washers and lock nut to cap. That is the tricky part , but not difficult : Rod holder tools - A steel wire ,a magnet . You will might need a extra hand ,because the rod will sink while you are threading the spring down over it. I threaded a steel holding wire though the spring, and pulled the damper rod up. you won't loose it.
Before you start: While the forks on the bike -Loosen but- Leave the caps on - forks off bike -then lossen the bottom allen bolt. I had use impact gun to loosen the allen head bolts om mine. So going on- new washers and as Delboy says don't over tighten them . That was my quick guide. You could also ask some mc shop to do it, just deliver the forks. Only spesial tools needed is a long 6mm allen socket
Do you have the Clymer Manual ? What is you want to do with the forks ?
It started at one of the brass inserts where the inner middle cowl attaches to the right side upper cowl. It got worse over a few days of not touching it so I removed it to relieve any stress in it that was causing this. Over to ST-Riders plastic repair forum I go.
