Fork overhaul

dwalby said:
If you have the ability on your VFR to adjust the fork rebound dampening with a screw on the top, do me a favor and give it a few turns to the stiffer setting direction. (make sure you measure how much you changed it by so you can put it back) My experience shows you'll get that same harshness without changing the spring preload at all.
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sorry Dwalby, what the adjustment on top of the vfr's fork does is adjust the preload.it has ring marks around it so its easy to keep track of,and keep her even on both forks.
when I had her on the standard recommended setting,3 rings from the top IIRC,she was great on a good road surface, nice firm feel in the corners.
but when riding on back roads with poorer surfaces she felt very harsh,not smooth enough over the bumps, so I backed of the preload so that 4 rings from the top were showing,and it smoothed her out,far nicer ride on the back roads.
I don't want to end up making the pans suspension feel this harsh,but she is softly sprung,and me being around 240lbs geared up doesn't help the situation.
maybe increasing the preload on each fork leg,by say 1/2 inch would stiffen her up enough.

PS. yes I have read post 36,and I see what you're saying, might not work for me unless I hit the gym hard for a few months LOL, and having a broken toe at the minute that's not going to be happening for a while anyway.
 
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ST1100Y said:
telling the suspension guru who'd done the installation about this, he just nodded, told me that he'd expected this and recommended the 'linear wound progressive' springs, offering a much milder characteristic curve, better suitable for my application then the 'race track style 2-step progressives'...
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Has anyone ever asked as many questions about fork springs as me?? LOL
What weight are you Martin? the hyperpro as you showed me from their catalogue have just one spring for the st1100 abs2, so is this the linear/progressive spring you have fitted?
I don't see that they have any other option.
I haven't a clue about this stuff (as you can tell) but isn't putting in a bigger spacer on the pans forks the very same thing as me adjusting the preload on the vfr's springs with the fork top adjusters. I assume the springs in the Vfr are the same type progressive springs as the st1100's oems.
I think the race bikes just use straight rate springs,selected for the rider of the bike,based on his weight.I could be wrong though.
 
broc11 said:
sorry Dwalby, what the adjustment on top of the vfr's fork does is adjust the preload.it has ring marks around it so its easy to keep track of,and keep her even on both forks.
when I had her on the standard recommended setting,3 rings from the top IIRC,she was great on a good road surface, nice firm feel in the corners.
but when riding on back roads with poorer surfaces she felt very harsh,not smooth enough over the bumps, so I backed of the preload so that 4 rings from the top were showing,and it smoothed her out,far nicer ride on the back roads.
I don't want to end up making the pans suspension feel this harsh,but she is softly srung,and me being around 240lbs geared up doesn't help the situation.
maybe increasing the preload on each fork leg,by say 1/2 inch would stiffen her up enough.
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I guess the VFR isn't really a sportbike, so maybe the adjustments are limited, sportbikes have had separate preload, compression, and rebound damping adjustments for many years now. If you had the rebound adjustment you'd see that you could create the harshness with that adjustment alone, without touching preload.

To be honest, you're overthinking this, experiment with the preload spacers and decide from there if you need different springs or not. Yes, the ride will get harsher as you increase the preload, everyone who ever rode a motorcycle will agree with you on that. But the point at which it gets too harsh is variable based on your weight and riding style, so there's no exact answer to what preload or spring to use.

You keep saying "I'll have to get somebody to look at that", so I'm not sure if you even want to do the adjustments yourself. If you get somebody else to do the adjustments for you, and try out a few different settings, it might cost you a bit of cash to finally dial it in. Like I said before, if you do it yourself its basically free to try, so you have nothing to lose. If you're paying someone else then maybe they can get you to a good starting point, then try a couple of options in either direction and dial it in from there.
 
dwalby said:
To be honest, you're overthinking this
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Yeah I have to agree with you there, I have a friend who is a mechanic so with this kind of stuff he helps me out,
I'm fairly handy at other basic stuff,done lots of work on tractors,machinery etc. but when it comes to the bikes I don't like messing too much with stuff that's critical,brakes steering etc.
I'm depending on just 2 wheels with a small contact patch so I help him out doing stuff and I am learning,don't mind oil/filter changes,coolant changes etc.
I have learned lots of stuff on this forum and been able to pass it on and discuss it with him.that has helped more than just me because he does work on bikes for other people too.
A lot of people I see tend to ride the bike till something breaks,I prefer preventative maintainance. cheaper and safer in the long run in my opinion.
 
Hi all,
I'm in need of some Guru assistance.

A little while ago I decided to change my for oil on AnaSTasia, she's done 97,000 kms and I have done 20 odd k since I have had her.

I cam across a You tube which actually show how to pull the forks apart on a ST and do the seals etc.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30

So I did that and was surprised how easy it is I was, however I :eek:: meant to mark the top of the old seal as it came out, I got distracted and about a month or 2 later with new seals and bushes for the life of me I can't remember which way the seals go in:mad::confused:.

I have the digital manual which doesn't give enough detail to be sure even the local Honda shops computer wasn't clear enough.

So here's hoping someone out there can assist me a definitive answer:pray1:

Cheers
Kappy
 
kappy5003 said:
a month or 2 later with new seals and bushes for the life of me I can't remember which way the seals go in:mad::confused:.
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The flat side with the writing should be on the top, the side with the small spring around the circumference should be on the bottom.
 
Interesting version of DIY slider bushing and fork seal driver. I have real shop drivers in the main STOC loaner fork seals R&R tool kit. But I may replace the long PVC tube in the backup kit with this fellow's version. Nice video. I'd remove the spring before pulling the cartridge though.

Couldn't find an old seal in my garage, or a picture of one in my archives, but IINM, the side that you can actually see the spring goes down (is the bottom). Maybe someone else can give you a more definitive answer. [edit: I see dwalby answered while I was 'thumbing' {is that a smartphone verb? :)}]

Regards, John
 
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Thanks guys
Interestingly there's a small spring in both ends, but there's only writing on one side.

So I'll go with dwalby's suggestion as that the way I was leaning but was a tad timid.

The cheap bush/seal I feel will work a a treat, I've done a dry run on the fork.

John are you saying I take the small spring out while sliding down????
 
Please do not take anything out of the fork seal before installing it! Think of it as a unit.

Watch the video if you can as the guy shows an ST1100 shock being re-sealed. He does a good job; but, as John notes I take the inner assembly apart when changing the seals.
 
No, leave the spring alone, Kappy.

The video also shows a different take on installing the new seal. I just dress out all nicks and burrs, electrical tape on the end of the fork tube, lightly lube and slide it home.
 
Easier to remove the spring, less mess when pouring out the old oil, the damper needs to be in but spring out when setting oil level. JMHO. Do it as an entire assembly and let us know.
 
Hi. I have been thinking of doing my forks for a while and have followed this thread with interest. Great tips from all and the link to the video is great - a picture paints a thousand words as they say. Broc. I am about the same weight as you fully kitted so I think I will go with the same set up. Thanks to all of you who have contributed so far. Cheers
 
, as John notes I take the inner assembly apart when changing the seals.[/QUOTE]
Thanks guys,Yes that's what I thought, just misinterpreted Johns comment.

I plan to use a some old negative film strip to slide the seal down with some lube.

Does anyone remember film now that we live in a digital, I think a lot of professional photographers still use film.:D

Cheers Kappy
 
cammy moir said:
Hi. I have been thinking of doing my forks for a while and have followed this thread with interest. Great tips from all and the link to the video is great - a picture paints a thousand words as they say. Broc. I am about the same weight as you fully kitted so I think I will go with the same set up. Thanks to all of you who have contributed so far. Cheers
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I'd been putting it off for ages, seemed like too big a job, till I stumbled on the video, then said to myself I can do that.

My local Honda stealer charges from $500 to do the same job and that only seals, not bushes.

I got the seals and bushes ex UK for about AUD $45 inc postage. and genuine Honda, parts in OZ are a tad expensive.

I'm waiting on a cam holder stud to come from Japan at $6.00 I'm doing the valve shims and was a bit heavy handed when torquing down and not paying attention.:banghead::censored

Managed to get the broken stud out easier enough:smile:
 
I like the idea of the filmstrip or similar thin material. Milk carton seems to me too thick. Don't like stretching the new seal any more than necessary. This general technique should be considered if there's any question of possible damage to the new seals by the oft neglected upper portions of the fork tubes, especially the lower triple tree clamp area. New seals only ever contact this area of the fork tubes during an install. Once installed the critical area is that which the seal slides on during normal operation. I always inspect and clean my fork tubes at every gas stop and preride inspection, something I learned during AlaskaSTOC. I always carry dampened washcloth in a freezer ziplock just for that purpose.

N.B. - all camshaft holder bolts are not the same length! Eight are 45mm. Put one of them in the other 40mm bolts' holes and apply excessive torque will strip the threads in the aluminum head. Over the years too many STriders have had ham-handed techs make this mistake. Use a proper torque wrench here, 108 inch pounds!

John
 
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Yes John
It was one of the 45mm one, the 2 top and bottom rows are 45 mm and the 4 inner studs are 40mm.

I set the right torque setting, but not concentrating.
 
Well today I set about installing new bushes and seals using my expensive driver.
installation tool.JPG
Bush installed though hard to see.
install bush.JPG
Using film strip negative to protect seal.
film strip and seal.JPG
Seal about to go in
bush in now seal.jpg
Both bush and seal and retaining clip in
all in.JPG
The sad part I had to remove one seal and in the process screw the seal so will need another, now big deal just annoying.
Now to fill with oil.
I recall seeing a chart with fork volumes and measurement, but now can't seem to locate, can anyone point me in the correct direction.

Cheers
Kappy
 
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AnaSTasia is 2000 ST1100PY Non Abs.

I believe Police model used the forks as early ABS model.

Wish I could remember where I saw the info other than manual.

Cheers
Kappy
 
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