Fuel Gauge and Speedo stopped working during ride.

Joined
May 1, 2025
Messages
4
Age
27
Location
Roundrock
Bike
ST1100
Hey y’all, so I picked up my st1100 in MN and I’m headed back to Texas. Great bike! I love it. Only thing is, about 15 min near Tulsa, I laid the bike down trying to put the kickstand down in gravel. Everything seemed fine and everything was working. About 20 min into riding, I realized the gauge wasn’t working and the Speedo is stuck on 105mph. I saw the Speedo start jumping from 60-114. Is there a connection I need to check?
 
I'm wondering if laying the bike down damaged or kinked the speedo cable. It runs down from the dash to the front wheel. Check that it's completely free and not stuck on anything, and it wouldn't hurt to lube it as well.

Might be a similar issue with the fuel sender, I'm thinking the float got stuck when the bike was down. What does it read at?
 
ST1100 Speedos are cable driven from the front wheel.
Careful on lubing the speedo cable.
Easiest way to check is remove the cable from the front wheel drive, put the end in an electric drill and run the drill in REVERSE.
If all is well you will see the speedo needle move.
If it moves then the issue is probably the drive on the front wheel.
It could just be loose as ST1100 speedos very rarely die.
Fuel gauge gets it's reading from a connection on the left hand next to the battery box.
I assumed you dropped her on the left side?
Unless it was really bad drop, I would be surprised that it messed up the fuel gauge or the speedo.
Generally those kind of bad drops do serious damage to the body work (busted mirrors, saddlebag lids, upper fairings ...).
 
All the above, and I'll add that the speedo sender is on the LH side of the wheel. Ive seen a few take a hard bend at that connection at the wheel and be fine. The drill test is a good way to isolate the cable/cluster versus the speed sensor. But if the gauge is stuck at a fixed speed then it could well be the cluster (Bravo to you for hitting 105).

As for the fuel sender, it's also pretty straightforward, wiring running from under the seat to the cluster. Just need to check for continuity.

You can also search for and download the electrical diagrams for this bike from here.
 
If someone has had the cable off - it has to be disconnected to take out the front wheel, then there are a few things to check for.
The lower cable end is held in place by a plastic bracket and a single screw. It could be damaged and the csble is not slotted in to the drive properly as a result. The plastic end is part of the outer cable, and if it is cracked can still be held in place with a cable tie.

When you remove the drive, the inner cable can drop out from the outer. When putting it back you have to rotate the inner while pushing it up towards the speedo - you can feel the upper end engage with the speedo drive as it pushes up a little further when it is correct

Check the speedo drive casting on the front wheel. It has a lug which is there to prevent the housing from turning with the wheel. There is a corresponding lug on the inside of the left hand fork. The speedo lug should be behind the one on the fork.
 
About 20 min into riding, I realized the gauge wasn’t working and the Speedo is stuck on 105mph. I saw the Speedo start jumping from 60-114.
The jumping speedo seems to have a mechanical culprit, broken cable, issues with the speedo drive... or the silicon damper inside the clock has leaked...

On the fuel gauge we would need a more detailed description of the symptoms...
possible issues with the sender, but I also have seen corrosion/contact issues on the back of the instrument panel leading to failure of clocks/gauges...
(or folks tapping a scotch-lock just into "any" cable for a 12V accessory feed... :confused:)
 
Back
Top Bottom