Fuel pump

I plan on scrubbing the inside of the ST tank with a Scotchbrite pad and maybe a brash brush. I looked last night and all was dry and there is no visible rust on the tank walls or floor

Jim, if the tank is generally clean and rust free, have you considered a chemical cleaning - which will get in all nooks and crannies otherwise difficult to reach? If there's gunk at the bottom I normally use acetone to dissolve and eliminate, followed by Evaporust to eliminate any specs of rust and general cleaning.

I am lucky, I have never had to seal a tank but that's probably a result if doing only British bike rebuilds and restorations

I myself struggled with several "badly" sealed tanks (all Honda bikes) where I had to completely remove the seal that was applied over rust and peeling off.
 
i set to scrubbing the inside of the ST tank with a Scotchbrite pad and it worked a treat. The tank is in good shape even with the rusted and corroded bits on the pump. I dry scrubbed the tank interior and all the rust came away. I then used the shop vac to evacuate the dust and debris. All that's left is an oily cloth wipe down to get all the last traces of dust. I really can't wait to get my parts in and to finish the pump assembly. I spent some time with tiny wire brushes and bits of 400 grit wet dry sand paper and the unit is clean and a bit unrecognizable. My biggest concern is wring in the new pump connection. I was going with a crimp butt connector but I did some research and it seems that polyolefin shrink wrap is a good choice for fuel immersion. I plan to make a connection with a crimp, soldered and then shrink wrapped. It can't be worse than the factory job.
 
Yep, I have been giving this a lot of thought. There is a station here in town that sells non-ethanol gas. It's a little out of the way but I will probably start using it now that I have a new pump and clean tank.
I have been using non-E regular in my 1100s, but the 1300 calls for premium, which isn't local to me.

So, I have been using Amoco premium. They've been making lead-free premium for over 100 years.

I wonder if octane booster will properly change non-E regular into non-E premium for use in 1300s?
 
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