Fueling problem

The more I ride the more I learn about it.

When transitioning from a decline to an incline, even with a steady throttle I’m losing most of the power, almost like closing the throttle but not completely.

Also, when in a lower gear and throttle slightly open, as the tach moves between 3-4K the power cuts out a bit like it’s lean. At higher rpm and even lower it seems to be ok. I noticed this in stop and go traffic today

What kind of things are happening between 3-4K and not elsewhere?
 
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Just talking to myself here but I found the issue. There was a very small leak around the #1 throttle body. None the upper clamps were even close to snug. I went down to 6-6.25 between the flats per the manual.

I also didn’t have the muffler clamps tight, together I can only assume they were creating a lean condition after 5-10 seconds of steady throttle and asking for a very small amount of power made it cut out.

Sounds crazy but the fueling is fine now, and that part of the fuel map is definitely lean and not as responsive elsewhere in the range. But now it does run like previous ST’s I’ve ridden
 
Auron said:
When I put the air box in, I can feel it click into the grooves. But when I put in the snorkel bases in, the bolts run out of threads (very clean and consistent) but the base isn’t actually secure. Like the bolts are too long.
Click to expand...
A side issue really, but do you really need the Snorkles?
I'm removed mine.
 
Your joking right?
YES you absolutely need your snorkels, and the MUST be in the correct orientation for the air flow to work correctly.
Why would you remove them?
 
I'm in a living & learning mode with my new (to me) ST1300 at present and noticed this YouTube vid - skip to 8.08 minutes for the snorkel mod...
The K&N HA-1302 filter is now fitted.

 
Removing the snorkel, where is the science behind that?
At this level of "Performance Mods", I would also add some stickers and carbon winglets on my helmet to optimize the airflow. :rofl1:
 
Mr.E said:
I'm in a living & learning mode with my new (to me) ST1300 at present and noticed this YouTube vid - skip to 8.08 minutes for the snorkel mod...
The K&N HA-1302 filter is now fitted.

Click to expand...
There is a lot of drama and a few myths in that video. Removing the snorkels is one of those myths. They are there to tune the intake for efficiency. Do yourself a favor and reinstall them.
 
Any idiot can make a YouTube video :rofl1:
I loved several of his comments like I don’t know if this really works…
 
One of the reasons that I completely avoid buying anything that has had any work done beyond maybe a couple oil changes and dealership service is that chances are [and I've been lucky] that what you start with hasn't been modified or incorrectly reassembled and you're not too far off assuming that what you have matches what's in the service manual - even if you don't have a service manual. When I saw the couple things there were out of place under the fairings I wasn't thrilled but I was lucky at least that there was evidence that not much more had been disturbed from original assembly.
There are far too many inter operating processes and control systems for me to grasp what all is going on in the first place, let alone flow dynamics and so on. But everything depends on everything else in a sense with the original design objective and subsequent testing based on making it as competitive as possible in a high performance category.
At idle I can snap the throttle like a foosball handle and the engine responds perfectly, I'll say it again, the ST I rode twenty years ago and this one has an extremely predictable repeatable IMHO perfectly optimized torque / rpm / power characteristic, if something doesn't seem right, it aint.
 
The way he talks bugs me.

Does the PAIR removal help it run cooler?
 
Auron said:
The more I ride the more I learn about it.

When transitioning from a decline to an incline, even with a steady throttle I’m losing most of the power, almost like closing the throttle but not completely.

Also, when in a lower gear and throttle slightly open, as the tach moves between 3-4K the power cuts out a bit like it’s lean. At higher rpm and even lower it seems to be ok. I noticed this in stop and go traffic today

What kind of things are happening between 3-4K and not elsewhere?
Click to expand...

I’m having the exact same problem
with my 04. Same rpm range, and exactly as you described. Sometimes it feels like someone unplugged the power cord for a split second, or like a clutch slip.
Low end take off and accelerating with purpose are fine.
Is access to all the throttle body boot clamps possible from the top, or do I need to remove body parts to gain access from the side as well? I’d like to check the top and bottom clamps. Ie; TB to boot, and boot to manifold.
 
Igofar said:
Any idiot can make a YouTube video :rofl1:
I loved several of his comments like I don’t know if this really works…
Click to expand...
Obvious that this guy knows nothing about the nearly 100 percent of vehicle on the road today with Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) modules that effectively change the intake air path length in the manifold based on engine rpm. Those snorkels are there to tune the intake characteristics and power curve.
 
Mr.E said:
I'm in a living & learning mode with my new (to me) ST1300 at present and noticed this YouTube vid - skip to 8.08 minutes for the snorkel mod...
The K&N HA-1302 filter is now fitted.

Click to expand...

OFS VIDEO.

Now am in trouble. So much fun, so little time. Most excellent video. Thanks for the great share!

To the rest of the herd:
 
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