Fuse location for 'red box'.

Duporth

Duporth

Joined
Apr 24, 2017
Messages
415
Location
Australia
Bike
2022 BMW R1250RS
I fitted a GIpro gear indicator to my ST1300 about 3 years ago, following the instructions. It was a simple plug-in fit into a ‘red box’ at the rear of the bike under the seat near the tool kit position. The red box may be the where the diagnostic plug thingy would plug in, but I am not sure.

At the time of fitting the GIpro I also fitted an Eastern Beaver PC-8 (power supply outlet) for my accessories. The ‘switched’ terminals on the PC-8 are powered from a relay connected directly to the battery with the relay switching coming from a black/white (ignition live) wire I used that comes from a main harness into the ‘red box’ (above). Maybe this wasn’t a good wire to use (sensitive electronics…?).

I am wiring some daytime running lights at present, to the front forks , but I have found the PC-8, the red box, and GIpro are all now without power. I am assuming the red box is protected by a fuse somewhere and I have blown that (somehow?). I would like to check the fuse but I can’t finds its location.

Would a kind fellow ST’er be able to guide me on this thank you?
D
 
Hello:

I'm not sure that I completely follow your narrative, however, the most probable location to source power for an auxiliary bus such as the Eastern Beaver PC-8 is from an 'accessory' fuse that Honda provides within the main fuse box. I suggest you take a look at that fuse.

I regret that I don't have a picture or illustration of the ST1300 fuse box to show you, but if you access the fuse box (under the side panel), you can take the cover off of it and inspect each of the individual fuses for continuity. If you are lucky, there will be a decal on the fuse box cover identifying which fuse is the designated "accessory" fuse.

You might also want to take the cover off the PC-8 and check inside with a multimeter to see if power is making it to the device - there is always a possibility that power is making it to the device, but due to some form of failure within the distribution box, power is not making its way out of the box to the consumers,

Here's a link showing photographs of the inside of the device: Eastern Beaver PC-8

Michael
 
The "red box" is actually a red 4-way diagnostic connector that has the wires needed for the gear indicators. One of the wires is switched power from elsewhere. If your fuse panel is not powering up, I suspect the fuse in the trigger circuit for the relay is blown and it's also sharing the power feed to the diagnostic connector. Fuse layout should be in the owner's manual also.
 
If I could find the location of the fuse that covers the red box, this would be my first item of attention. I do have the circuit diagrams (2003) but I'm struggling to interpret them re the red box and fuse. I'll keep trying.
Thank you for your help Michael and RaY.
D
 
Since the wires for the tail lights are so close to the rear tool pocket where most of us put an aux. fuse box, I used one of those as the 'trigger' for my PC8's relay. I thought it not wise to play with circuitry associated with the electronics of the bike. I too, have a GI Pro and it is plugged into that red diagnostic plug you mentioned.

As @RaYzerman said, check each fuse for continuity. It will be faster to do this than look around and decipher the wiring diagram. Some fuses have tiny metal tabs on the top edge, and a fuse tester from AutoZone can test the fuses in place. I've found this sort of tester to be pretty fussy to use, and a mulitmeter to check continuity is fast and foolproof.
 
Thank you RaY and SMSW. I am red faced and have to apologise to everyone here.

BECAUSE:

I had inadvertently turned the Kill Switch off. I hear "Der", "What a Dummy", "D is for Donkey".

Sorry to bother you and thanks for helping me. Another lesson learned by me, to be careful.

D
 
Thanks Andrew.
Agreed. I will change my trigger wire and take one from left side fuse box.
D
 
Duporth said:
I had inadvertently turned the Kill Switch off.
Click to expand...
You haven't done anything that 99% of riders with kill switches haven't done. There even one or two people here who have done the same. So many in fact that Honda and at least (maybe) one other manufacturer have made the kill switch (on the new GL1800s) a momentary push switch. Push to Off to kill the engine release to go back to its default RUN position. It eliminates one D'oh! moment.

[This is where somebody chimes in with 'In 30/40/50/90yrs and eleventyseven bazillion miles I've NEVER have I EVER left the switch in the Off position. No need for new fangled tech.']

I'm thinking of taking the spring out of one of my HKS speed loaders or Dr. Grip Gel pen and making my ST kill switch in to a ForgetMeNot switch. FYI- a stick of Beeman's doesn't work.
 
The ST's electricals are all very neatly soldered, heatshrunk (such a word?), and cable tied. All back together. I happy to be finished. DRL's shining brightly from the front forks near the orange reflector mounts.

I now move on to the brake fluid change, then a pause, and do the valve check. All time consuming activities but at minimal cost.

Thanks for all help. D
 
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