Gas Tank Removal Help

Joined
Aug 28, 2019
Messages
7
Age
52
Location
Marietta, GA
I am new to the ST. Just purchased a 2006 and wanted to check and/or change the air filter. Would someone please direct me to a previous post that gives step by step and maybe pictures to help explain the "how to" remove the gas tank. Unfortunately I don't have a service manual or a lot of experience with motorcycle repairs. Any step by step guide would be appreciated.
 

 
You don't have to remove the upper gas tank in order to replace the air filter.
Remove the seat.
Remove the two bolts at the front of the tank near the handle bar base.
Loosen the bolt at the back side of the tank.
Retrieve the stay rod from the backside of the frame that was under the seat.
Pivot the tank up and back. There is a cable that limits the movement so the connecting fuel hose won't kink/break/leak
Prop it in place with the stay.
Remove the plastic cover and replace the air filter. Have a shop vac handy, you may be amazed at what has collected in there.
Reverse.

Cautions:
The stay rod may be missing. Improvise with a dowel or something else harmless that won't dent or scratch.
The cable limiter may be missing. If so, only pivot the tank enough to remove the filter housing.
Be attentive to fuel leaks and smells. Sometimes old hoses don't like to be disturbed. If so, the likely suspect is the fat hose that permits the tank to pivot...replace it.
If handlebar risers have been installed, the tank may want to contact a switch housing or two as you pivot it back. You will then need to loosen your handlebars enough to move them out of the way.

Find a manual. Problems are easy to fix. Mining plastic to access them isn't. Graphs, photos and text certainly help. Watch where the plastic fasteners went...they will need to go back there. I taped mine onto the panel with blue painters tape first few times.
Parts are available from Partzilla, Bike Bandit, Roy Ayers, and some others.


Ride it. It's a good bike.
 
Here's a link to a post I made Tuesday in response to another forum member's question about getting access to a part that is underneath the air filter enclosure. The first 5 steps of that post describe how to get access to the air filter. The information is similar to, and compliments, the advice given by @Oldbikefixr in his post #4 above.

5 Way T Vacuum Hoses

Michael
 
Be careful with the hose that joins the upper tank with the lower tank. When you slide the tank back in the slots at the back AND raise it up to clear the switches, the hose can rupture. Mine did and because my tank was full and there is no way to stop the gas, the whole tank dumped on my garage floor, through the bike. My advice is to 1. have the upper tank fully empty first and 2. carefully inspect the hose after you finish. I ended up purchasing the hose and the OEM clips (one was $18) but they went back easily. You could probably use SS hose clamps but make sure the edges are not sharp.

Cheers,

Derek
 
Having a spare hose just for drill is probably a smart idea. And run the tank down to 2 bars to make moving it around and supporting it easier.
 
...and one more caution: there a lot of little JIS (they look like Phillips but they are not Phillips) screws holding that air filter housing on (can't recall if it is 6, 8 or even 10 screws).

DO NOT drop any of those screws down into the nether regions of the bike (or, God forbid, into the air intake snorkels which are under the air filter). The best thing would be to have a magnetic screwdriver or other tool handy while removing those screws.
 
This a job where having the service manual or having someone show you how to place the gas tank pivot bolt in the MAINTENANCE POSITION will keep you from cutting or tearing the joint hose that connects the upper and lower fuel tanks. If you remove the two front retaining bolts and just lift the tank you likely will cut that hose and dump a gas tank of gas on the ground.

You remove the two retaining bolts, remove the seat, set the seat height adjuster in the middle position, loosen the horizontal pivot bolt under the rear of the upper tank, then slide the tank fully back before lifting it. In doing so the tank moves back as the horizontal pivot bolt slides in a track about 2" back to the MAINTENANCE POSITION. You must do this before lifting the tank - this gives the joint hose enough slack to avoid cutting or stressing it when the tank lifts.
 
I just installed a new air filter yesterday. I love the way the manual says "disconnect" the sensor. Doesn't say how... no diagram as to where to pinch, spread, pull whatever! I swear that Honda uses a dozen different styles of connectors and I think I have only been able to actually disconnect this one once in 14 years! Of course I have forgotten how I did that by the next filter change or clean (depending on what filter I had in) Thank goodness you can do the filter change without actually removing the air filter cover from the bike.
 
This a job where having the service manual or having someone show you how to place the gas tank pivot bolt in the MAINTENANCE POSITION will keep you from cutting or tearing the joint hose that connects the upper and lower fuel tanks. If you remove the two front retaining bolts and just lift the tank you likely will cut that hose and dump a gas tank of gas on the ground.

You remove the two retaining bolts, remove the seat, set the seat height adjuster in the middle position, loosen the horizontal pivot bolt under the rear of the upper tank, then slide the tank fully back before lifting it. In doing so the tank moves back as the horizontal pivot bolt slides in a track about 2" back to the MAINTENANCE POSITION. You must do this before lifting the tank - this gives the joint hose enough slack to avoid cutting or stressing it when the tank lifts.
That's exactly what I did but unfortunately my '04 hose was not flexible enough and ruptured. As suggested, get the fuel to two bars and the top tank is empty first, then just what you said.
Cheers,

Derek
 
That's exactly what I did but unfortunately my '04 hose was not flexible enough and ruptured. As suggested, get the fuel to two bars and the top tank is empty first, then just what you said.
Cheers,

Derek
A gotcha is the tank must be held back in the most rearward position as it is lifted. The hose itself resists being compressed and pushes the tank forward unless held to the rear when the tank begins to lift. That might have been what happened, who knows. I never had a problem with this hose, last lifted on my 2005 at 175,000 miles. I did replace it at 106,000 for good measure when I removed the tank to R & R the alternator.
 
...and one more caution: there a lot of little JIS (they look like Phillips but they are not Phillips) screws holding that air filter housing on (can't recall if it is 6, 8 or even 10 screws).

DO NOT drop any of those screws down into the nether regions of the bike (or, God forbid, into the air intake snorkels which are under the air filter). The best thing would be to have a magnetic screwdriver or other tool handy while removing those screws.
And one tip on the screwdriver... if you have the (or any) original Honda tool kit, the supplied screwdriver is the correct type for the screws. There should be a black plastic handle and also T handle for a bit more torque and pressure.
Cheers,

Derek
 
And one tip on the screwdriver... if you have the (or any) original Honda tool kit, the supplied screwdriver is the correct type for the screws. There should be a black plastic handle and also T handle for a bit more torque and pressure.
Cheers,

Derek

Right - and the reason it is the correct type for the screws is, as pointed out earlier, they are NOT Phillips screws. They are JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) and if you use a Phillips on them, you risk stripping the heads. The geometry is very similar - but sufficiently different that Phillips drivers don't quite in the JIS screws on our bikes. That is why you see so many screws with ruined heads on Japanese motorcycles. If you work on Japanese....ANYTHING - get yourself a set of Vessel JIS drivers.

They are not expensive and they are worth the money:


OR - for an excellent value (only $30 CDN - SHIPPED) - check out the beautifully made JIS drivers from GoFastInnovations.com They are just a nice as the Vessel set but they cost $57 less. BTW $30 CDN is only about $23 USD.


NOTE: I have no financial interest in either Vessel Tools or GoFastInnovations - but both are excellent providers of great tools for working on Japanese....ANYTHING.
 
I just installed a new air filter yesterday. I love the way the manual says "disconnect" the sensor. Doesn't say how...
Hi Jim:

I've never 'disconnected' the air temperature sensor that fits into the aft end of the upper airbox cover - I don't even know how the disconnect mechanism works. What I do is remove the two little screws that hold the entire assembly in place, then remove the sensor (still firmly attached to its 'quick disconnect' base) from the airbox.

Michael
 
Hi Jim:

I've never 'disconnected' the air temperature sensor that fits into the aft end of the upper airbox cover - I don't even know how the disconnect mechanism works. What I do is remove the two little screws that hold the entire assembly in place, then remove the sensor (still firmly attached to its 'quick disconnect' base) from the airbox.

Michael
Aha!
 
check out the beautifully made JIS drivers from GoFastInnovations.com They are just a nice as the Vessel set but they cost $57 less.
I actually think that they are better. I have a set of Vessel drivers as well as a set of the previous version of the GoFast drivers. The handles on the Vessel are hard and are more prone to slip in your hand then the GoFast do. The handles on the older version of GoFast drivers that I have are better padded and covered with a more tacky and less slip prone material. I assume that the newer version are similar.
 
All good, but...
If handlebar risers have been installed, the tank may want to contact a switch housing or two as you pivot it back. You will then need to loosen your handlebars enough to move them out of the way.
This depends. I have Heli Risers 3.2, and both myself & another user have managed to lift the front of the tank without undoing the bars.

Turn front wheel to the left, the right side clears & vice versa. Bonus here, is you don't need the stay, you can let it sit on the clutch side... if you're brave...

I've since ordered a stay, found it missing first time I went to do the job. ;)
 
Back
Top Bottom