H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6

[Larry Fine]

If/when I replace my brake/tail bulb with an LED, I plan to use a red one, and to install one or two small panels for the plate.

 

[Obo]

If/when I replace my brake/tail bulb with an LED, I plan to use a red one, and to install one or two small panels for the plate.

Larry, you have an 1100 correct? You could also to the 3rd bulb upgrade (where you drill and mount a 4rd bulb between the 2 OEM ones.)

 

[Larry Fine]

Larry, you have an 1100 correct? You could also to the 3rd bulb upgrade (where you drill and mount a 4rd bulb between the 2 OEM ones.)

I already bought a complete taillight assembly that has been so modified. It almost looks like it came from the factory.



My intention is to find the best size panel to mount inside the lens, over the license-plate window, so it blocks red light.

 

[Larry Fine]

Are there different F2s? All of the Evitek boxes I have seen are labeled "36W/6000LM" but the Evitek site says:

12000LM 80W per set

Here's the link: http://www.evitekelectronic.com/sale-10680022-12000lm-80w-high-brightness-f2-led-headlight-h4-hi-lo-c-r-ee-car-led-light.html#

 

[spiderman302]

It is very confusing when they link the wrong product to the wrong English description.
80 watts is two 40 watt products....

The F2 is 36 watts
The NB35 is their 40 watt led. ( yawn, not enough to be interested )
The F3 is their new 45 watt led. ( this will make a ~40% improvement, So I might get one soon to check it out )
Their E9 also claims 45 watts. but I see conflicting numbers on it too.

I have seen others claiming 50 watts, now with higher power means more heat which usually means shorter life unless they are able to control the heat.
Their ads show using liquid cooling so it might work. only time will tell if they got it right.
I do not have deep pockets to try every iteration, I am happy with what the F2 does well for me.
I will spend my extra time and money spinning my odometer ....

 

[Larry Fine]

The F2 is 36 watts

So, the ones I ordered are the right ones, even though they say made by KRAFT CC?

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[spiderman302]

Yes. you should be good.
Just remember to put a piece of 18 Ga sold bare wire across the the bottom two slots. See post 309 on page 16 of this thread.
Let us know how it works out for you...

 

[Larry Fine]

Yes. you should be good.
Just remember to put a piece of 18 Ga sold bare wire across the the bottom two slots. See post 309 on page 16 of this thread.
Let us know how it works out for you...

So, instead of using shims to move the bulbs straight back in the reflector, I should use the wire to tilt the bulb tips lower?

 

[spiderman302]

I do not know about the ST1100. I have read that you need the shim for the halogen bulb so you would need it for the led.

The wire down tilts the bulb to slightly improve the center brightness of the H4 low beam. Try with and without to see if there is a difference.

The H4 halogen bulb the filament is not on the centerline of the bulb. It is slightly lower because the low beam filament is not at the focus point.
If it were on the centerline there would be a dim spot in the center of the low beam. However this could be fixed in the reflector/lens design.
With two headlights the beams can over lap and hide the dim spot. Most will not notice so this artifact gets over looked.
the high beam is a the focus point so it is not affected.

If you have a focusing Mag light. adjust it to a tight spot. That is where the high beam is. Now widen the beam and you will see a donut with a dim center.
That is where the low beam is at and this is where the shield will make the nice cut off. The shield does not work at the focus point. Now you know the magic of the H4.

 

[Larry Fine]

Thank you for the info! With two bulbs, it should be easy to make a comparison.

Any advice for twisting position, or just go for the flattest beam cutoff?

 

[ST Gui]

So, instead of using shims to move the bulbs straight back in the reflector

No you'll need the shims unless you can find a F2-type that's a direct fit for our STs. (Other STs such as the Euro spec will fit the H4 base without modding.) I'm pretty sure the shim is not designed to move the bulb back. It just does because it's there. It's main purpose in life is to support the modified H4 bulb.

The 1300's bulb sockets have rims that supports the modded LED bulbs. The sockets would support the bulb with all tabs removed. The remaining tab at 12 o'clock is there for just for positioning.

The 1100's bulb sockets don't have the rims and use all the tabs to support the bulb. Mod the two bottom tabs and you can't seat the bulb. So the shim goes on and provides that support.

 

[ST Gui]

Any advice for twisting position, or just go for the flattest beam cutoff?

I went for the flattest cutoff. My old Euro spec Cibié headlights had the lenses kick up the right side of the beam a little. It was easy to see on a wall when adjusting the headlights. This was to give a little more distance downrange without impairing the vision of on coming drivers. I imagine there was a version that kicked up a bit on the left side for those countries where driving on the wrong side is the norm.

Our STs lenses don't provide that kick. You can twist the bulb either way but where is rises on one side it dips on the other. So I chose flat. I suppose you could twist the STBD bulb to kick the right side up a bit and leave the PORT bulb flat. I don't know how effective that would be downrange if at all. I will say the difference between any halogen and these LEDs is – well – you know...

 

[spiderman302]

Look at the H4 halogen bulb, top tab is straight up in a USA car but the bulb is slightly twisted. the shield is not flat.
But if you look in your motorcycle headlight you will see that the tab is offset which makes the bulb and shield level which makes for a flat beam.
UK cars would have to have the tab offset more to put the up tilt on the other side of the road.
The nice thing about the led is you can adjust the up tilt to which ever side you want or flat.

 

[Larry Fine]

No you'll need the shims unless you can find a F2-type that's a direct fit for our STs. (Other STs such as the Euro spec will fit the H4 base without modding.) I'm pretty sure the shim is not designed to move the bulb back. It just does because it's there. It's main purpose in life is to support the modified H4 bulb.

Ah, so the shim provides tightness, not positioning, as its primary function? In theory, any ring that fits would work?

 

[spiderman302]

Again I do not have the ST1100. If the shim is to compensate for the missing two tabs, since you have to cut them off.
Maybe if you just used the 18 ga wire across the bottom slots you might not need the shim!
This might help those who can not find the shim.....

 

[ST Gui]

Ah, so the shim provides tightness, not positioning, as its primary function? In theory, any ring that
fits would work?

No no and no. Any ring that fits as below would work.

Think of a tripod. What would happen if you removed one or two legs? It falls down.

Somebody somewhere started calling these shims which is a misnomer. They are adapters. That is their job. Not to shim the bulb for any reason but to allow an H4 bulb to be used in an 1100 starting with 60/55W and higher halogens. They predate LEDs.

Imagine the hole for the bulb in an ST1100 headlight assembly (reflector) is the diameter of the outside of the ring above (excluding tabs). If not for all three tabs - the ring and anything attached to the inside of it - would fall into that hole. The tabs provide support (the main function) and orientation of the bulb.

Now imagine the hole in the ST1300 headlight reflector is the diameter of the inside of the adapter above. There's no way the adapter with two or even all of its tabs modded would fall in. The 12 o'clock tab provides orientation but is not needed for support as the 1300's reflector supports the bulb by the rim and not by the tabs. So the adapter is superfluous in a 1300.

That's the difference between our 1100 and 1300 assemblies where the bulb fitment is concerned. The former needs all three tabs and the latter actually doesn't need any (but the 12 o'clock makes orientation simple).

 

[ST Gui]

Maybe if you just used the 18 ga wire across the bottom slots you might not need the shim!
This might help those who can not find the shim.....

Now I'm really in the weeds making a WAG. My WAG is that the wire wouldn't work in an 1100 because of the lack of support for the bulb and the pressure exerted by the bale holding the bulb in place.

Now if there were a steel rod or pin the thickness of an 18ga bare wire it might support the bulb and withstand the pressure of the bale without being distorted. That bit is all guesswork on my part.

 

[jspringator]

I installed the F2 in low beam Hella Ecodes on my motorhome. I couldn't get the rubber boots back on. Should I seal the bulb to the housing with the self fusing silicon tape?

 

[RaYzerman]

You may have to trim some rubber off the inner diameter on the forward side against the bulb to let the rubber boot seat a little deeper. No effect on sealing...... Sometimes there is an issue seating the larger diameter of the rubber, this is usually a very precise fit requiring the best alignment you can get while trying to get it back on. Simply a teeny smear of silicone grease or some silicone spray will help you out here...

 

[ST Gui]

I couldn't get the rubber boots back on.

I don't have F2s but I thought the fan could be removed and the bulb/socket whatever mounted in place with the wire bale. Then the boot installed as usual and the fan connected to the bulb through the boot - no cutting required. Yes/no?