Long post, sorry. Picked up an 07 ST and noticed a big difference in handling from my old bikes. Gone from a Grom, to a cb500x then to a 650 Vstrom, all within 5 years. I loved the upright seating of the adventure style but wanted more long distances comfort and some more fun in the twisties. I'll be riding back and forth between Barrie and North Bay most weekends (roughly 300kms) unless I take the car. Anyway, I know this is a completely different ride than an adventure bike but I felt way more confident on those in the corners compared to the ST, it's going to take some time I get it but I wasn't expecting such a big difference, at the end of the day this bike should have no problems doing the same on road things my adventure bikes where doing but with off road tires. The original owner put a 130/70 on the front saying it was better for handling (for him) in my experience a wider front tire takes some more lean angle to get it to react and the turn in isn't as snappy we'll say. Could this be some of my concern? I mean I've seen videos of people on a track with these bikes so I know they can handle way more than I can throw at it but I took a corner last night at the same speed that I always took on my adventure bikes and almost dropped off the side of the road. I don't know if I just don't trust it yet and I'm subconsciously making it up that it doesn't handle well or if something is up with the bike. Any insight or advice would be helpful. I know a few have mentioned they noticed a difference when they got theirs so maybe I just need time.
Handling concerns?
- Thread starter valleyguy98
- Start date
Bmacleod
Site Supporter
As long as the tires are good and the road is dry, it'll stick well beyond the abilities of most riders. Tire sizes can affect the turn-in feel as can rear spring preload. Raising and lowering the rear suspension changes the front fork rake angle, which can change the "quickness" of the steering. The preload adjuster on these bikes are notorious for loosing their fluid and travel and often need to be serviced. If the adjuster is working, try cranking in some more preload and see if that changes the handling. Sounds like you just need some time on the bike to gain some confidence in its ability
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
Agreed. Likely just have to get used to the lower seat height... not sure how tall your DL is, but there's a big diff on a GSA and the ST.
I am running Double Dark, so my front tire is what most use on their back wheel, and my rear tire is for small cars... I can do tight u-turns all day, and it doesn't feel heavy on twisty roads.
The steering geometry is also different between the Wee Strom and this big ST road bike.
Turn your head, look where you want to go, and this ST beast can rail in the curves.
I am running Double Dark, so my front tire is what most use on their back wheel, and my rear tire is for small cars... I can do tight u-turns all day, and it doesn't feel heavy on twisty roads.
The steering geometry is also different between the Wee Strom and this big ST road bike.
Turn your head, look where you want to go, and this ST beast can rail in the curves.
STFlips
Site Supporter
Tire pressure can have an effect too, lot's here run 42 on the front.
These are things on my checklist now. The bike goes in for a safety inspection on Friday and then I will start my maintenance. I just did the oil but rear diff fluid is next on my list and I watched a video this morning about the preload adjuster so that will be my next task. Also what are the tire pressure recommendations? I'm 290 and 6 foot tall and from time to time one of my kids come for a ride, maybe 100 pounds. I definitely will be turning the preload up. It does feel a bit soft/loose in the rear. I did take a bit more spirited ride this morning and forced my self to really lean it over and it did what I wanted it to do. Felt weird because I'm so much lower in their bike compared to the wee.
Honda calls for 42 psi front & rear. You may also want to look at rear shock rebound. I'm in K-W, where are you?
Probably need to have the preload cranked up all the way for this load (which is close to the max carrying capacity) if you have the original spring on the bike.
When increasing the preload, the rebound damping needs to be matched to the new preload setting. This should be a tightening of the rebound adjustment, but it depends on how it is set now.
I'm in North Bay, ON. I am posted (July) to Borden, ON but will be traveling between the two because my family is staying here.
I will have to check, I didn't look where the screw head was pointing. I'm sure I will have to service the everything and start fresh with all the settings.
Do you push or pull in the corners?
What specifically doesn't feel right about the handling?
Sounds like it's mostly just being unfamiliar. It is a big bike, and the inclination for many is that you can't lean it much because it so too heavy at a stand still. But once you're moving all that is gone, you can absolutely scrape the pegs on these.
Also make sure you're giving even throttle through corners, too much acceleration or braking (even engine braking) can unbalance the bike and let one or both tires slip a bit.
Sounds like it's mostly just being unfamiliar. It is a big bike, and the inclination for many is that you can't lean it much because it so too heavy at a stand still. But once you're moving all that is gone, you can absolutely scrape the pegs on these.
Also make sure you're giving even throttle through corners, too much acceleration or braking (even engine braking) can unbalance the bike and let one or both tires slip a bit.
Interesting to consider. 'Been riding for 66 years now so my steering techniques needed a bit of thought......I keep an adequate grip on both handlebars and lean into the turn. Push/pull happen simultaneously. And....look at where I want the bike to go. The turn just kinda' happens.
I intentionally and consciously counter-steer, applying steering torque and controlling the bike's lean and turning radius completely independently of my body's position or effort.
If more steering torque is required to lean the bike over than to stand it backup, then I raise the rear suspension a bit. This all is based on proper tire pressure and even tread-wear.
If more steering torque is required to lean the bike over than to stand it backup, then I raise the rear suspension a bit. This all is based on proper tire pressure and even tread-wear.
Cool... I went to Canadore & also burned out many brain cells at Borden in my wasted youth! We'll have to meet up and swap lies this summer.
My rebound wasn't set up for my weight when I picked up my ST.
This should help.
Article [13] - ST1300 - Setting rear shock rebound adj [VIDEO] | ST1300 Articles
I thought that this short video might illustrate how changes to the rebound adjustment screw affects how the rear shock works and how to find a starting point for your shock.
Similar to my issue with the ST originally. I found the weight and turbulence in highway traffic intimidating and unnerving especially after reading references to the Pan Weave. Gizmo (+++ many thanks) was kind enough to take my ST for a spin & pronounce it normal. After that I was fine: the problem was in my head. Throw in a few hours of practicing slow speed turns in a parking lot (as per numerous YouTube videos) & I almost look competent.
98% agree haha. 2% is set up for my weight. I think the lower seating position and the difference in bike weight is my main issue. Also I notice it feels much slower to transition quickly from back to back turns (S) again weight and unfamiliar. I enter the corner a bit under speed and add roughly 5-10 kms/h of speed in the middle to the exit unless its back to back turns and I hold my entrance speed until the final exit. No braking or lifting throttle mid turn unless I need to stand the bike up for cars that like to cross the center line lol
I initiate the turn with some counter to get the bike to lean and then a bit of pull to keep it pointed. If I feel like I'm drifting a bit off my line I add a bit counter to lean the bike some more. Again I think its the extra weight and being unfamiliar with the new to me bike. My last two bike where very similar and the same tires and other than some more power from the 650 they both behaved pretty much the same in the twisties.
At the end of the day I feel like its just inexperience and a new bike. Today felt much better but the back to back turns still felt slow in transition but they may be because I need to move my body a bit faster to get the bike to follow.
I don't believe there is anything wrong with the bike just poor setup for me and I just need to ride it and progress my skills with it. It does have a Micheline pilot rear tire and a mettzler? front tire so maybe the two compounds aren't playing well together? Again I'm just reaching at this point but I will continue to ride it and adapt. It just threw me there was such a large gap between vstrom and the ST I knew there would be just not that much.
And the outer diameter will be larger as well, raising the front, which is not exactly what you want if the rear is too low to begin with.
Even at the correct 120 size, different tires will have different feel.
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Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Do you know if the suspension is till the original factory equipment or has it been modified? If it still has the factory suspension you will likely never have optimal characteristics because your weight far exceeds what the factory suspension was designed to handle.
The above aside you need a baseline to compare against. To that end I would suggest starting with the basics.
Honda calls for 42 P.S.I.G. front and rear. If the tires are badly squared off it will be noticeably harder to lean it over to start turns.
For the preload, back it off completely by turning the knob counter-clockwise until it stops. There is a detente ball that should allow you to feel it click at regular intervals. Turn it clockwise noting how many clicks you feel before you feel resistance. If it is more than two clicks before you feel resistance you need to refill the preload adjuster. Often they will go to 7 or 8 or more clicks before there is any resistance. This means that if you set it at 10 clicks you actually only have the preload of 2 clicks.
Same for the dampening. Set it to the factory recommended to start and then fine tune it as you find what preload works best for you.
If you don't have it, a digital copy of the owners manual can be found at the below link. It details what the factory recommended settings are. These are only a starting point as every rider's weight and riding style are different but it will give you a good starting point and familiarize you with the settings. Don't be concerned that neither of the ones available there match your model year- There is nothing of concern different.
The above aside you need a baseline to compare against. To that end I would suggest starting with the basics.
Honda calls for 42 P.S.I.G. front and rear. If the tires are badly squared off it will be noticeably harder to lean it over to start turns.
For the preload, back it off completely by turning the knob counter-clockwise until it stops. There is a detente ball that should allow you to feel it click at regular intervals. Turn it clockwise noting how many clicks you feel before you feel resistance. If it is more than two clicks before you feel resistance you need to refill the preload adjuster. Often they will go to 7 or 8 or more clicks before there is any resistance. This means that if you set it at 10 clicks you actually only have the preload of 2 clicks.
Same for the dampening. Set it to the factory recommended to start and then fine tune it as you find what preload works best for you.
If you don't have it, a digital copy of the owners manual can be found at the below link. It details what the factory recommended settings are. These are only a starting point as every rider's weight and riding style are different but it will give you a good starting point and familiarize you with the settings. Don't be concerned that neither of the ones available there match your model year- There is nothing of concern different.
ST1300 - Owners Manual
jfheath
John Heath
Ditto to the above.
42psi front and rear
Bridgestone T32 (and now T33) work well.
Raising the pre load quickens the steering. But if you have lots of clicks before the preload has any resitance, it needs bleeding (perhaps)
Inadequate damping of rear suspension will make it wallow in corners.
Tyres that aren't made for heavy bikes will make it wallow in corners.
Dodgy front bearings will make the steering twitch alarmingly when leant over.
Take the top box off if you have one, or fit a pillion. The airstream catching the top box is a source of 'oh tish'.
Check front wheel has been fastened up properly ie do it again. If done in orrectly, the wheel may be sliding a tad on its axle.
42psi front and rear
Bridgestone T32 (and now T33) work well.
Raising the pre load quickens the steering. But if you have lots of clicks before the preload has any resitance, it needs bleeding (perhaps)
Inadequate damping of rear suspension will make it wallow in corners.
Tyres that aren't made for heavy bikes will make it wallow in corners.
Dodgy front bearings will make the steering twitch alarmingly when leant over.
Take the top box off if you have one, or fit a pillion. The airstream catching the top box is a source of 'oh tish'.
Check front wheel has been fastened up properly ie do it again. If done in orrectly, the wheel may be sliding a tad on its axle.
I rode the bike to work today..the long way 
so at lunch I went out and observed the following. The preload was maxed out, I however did not back it all the way off I just assumed it was in need of service because it was maxed out haha. Factory suspension remains, both spring and shock are original and the rebound is in the factory position, there is very little adjustment in that correct? Both front and rear tires are fairly new with roughly 1000kms on them. Front is still crowned, the rear is just starting to break in with about an inch wide flatness in the middle.
I will turn the pre load out all the way and check for resistance after work and adjust tire pressure if needed. I have to pick up a gauge because mine wont work and I'll pick up some jack oil and freshen up the pre load adjuster this weekend, I'll still check it before the flush...you know for science. Going to assume the rear suspension is just tired at 157000kms (97500 miles) so maybe I'll look into a refresh for that as well.
so at lunch I went out and observed the following. The preload was maxed out, I however did not back it all the way off I just assumed it was in need of service because it was maxed out haha. Factory suspension remains, both spring and shock are original and the rebound is in the factory position, there is very little adjustment in that correct? Both front and rear tires are fairly new with roughly 1000kms on them. Front is still crowned, the rear is just starting to break in with about an inch wide flatness in the middle.I will turn the pre load out all the way and check for resistance after work and adjust tire pressure if needed. I have to pick up a gauge because mine wont work and I'll pick up some jack oil and freshen up the pre load adjuster this weekend, I'll still check it before the flush...you know for science. Going to assume the rear suspension is just tired at 157000kms (97500 miles) so maybe I'll look into a refresh for that as well.
Bmacleod
Site Supporter
Pretty safe bet the suspension is pretty tired at 157,000 km, unless there has been work done to it before. The factory suspension design is optimized for riders considerably less than 200 lb. If you're running close to 300 lb, you should probably think about upgrading the spring and probably refreshing the shock or sourcing a new one. What color is the spring on the rear shock by the way? Also, to address The heavy steering, check your steering head bearings.