that all sounds logical until you remove a 20 year old one and hold it in your hands next to a brand new one, they look and feel almost identical.
Has anyone on the forum here actually had a OEM timing belt failure?
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Imho I think oil and fluids are a major reason belts break also. In a closed up enviornment the ST1100 tooth belt is somewhat shieled from most dirt debris and oil. Honda says inspection at 60K and replacement at 90K. Also they don't list an age when to replace as I recall. Some on here has owned their 1100's longer than me and when they say 100K is good and they have not had a failure I tend to believe them. That being said you were wise to replace if you are in there. But I think the last time I asked I asked a Honda dealer I was told $800.00 us dollars so no it would be a total waste of money to change it before 100K to me.
Uncle Phil
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I've got three 'used' ones hanging on my wall and a brand new and if I laid them all out, it would be interesting if anyone could pick which one was new.
I think th
Each time I had it done they charged me actual time it took them to do the job. 2.25 hrs. I removed all the Tupperware before I brought it in. The bill was around $200 plus the cost of the belt.
Uncle Phil
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Just an interesting point - I wonder if Mother Honda 'dates' the new ones so you can be assured you are getting a fresh one and not a ten year old one?
I've got one in the Honda packaging so I'll just have to check that when I get back to the Holler this evening.
I've got one in the Honda packaging so I'll just have to check that when I get back to the Holler this evening.
Our dealer is at 140.00 an hour here. He had other stuff on there too that needed replacement. I never had it done because this is the same dealer that overcharges me for my coolant changes....mentioned a valve clearance check too. In the US over here overcharging is quite the norm.
Given the scarcity of ST1100s, I wouldn't suspect they work on so many of them that they get very good at changing timing belts in record time. So, you got a great deal. I'm curious if you received the old belt when they were finished with the work.
Uncle Phil
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I always asked for mine - as a little insurance that it was actually done!
The automotive industry doesn’t think it is overcharging, if the book says 2 hours and they do it in half that you still pay for 2 they say that you are paying for their experience, if it takes them an extra hour they charge for that because you are paying for their time. Always seemed like a bit of a con to me.
Andrew Shadow
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I wish that I had that deal when I worked flat-rate!
If it took me one hour for a two hour job, I was paid two hours.
If it took me three hours, or more, I was still paid two hours.
Yes I got the old one back. It's a family run Honda dealership, One brother is the salesman he owned the ST's and the other the mechanic. At the time they were done, the hourly rate was close to $80/hr Canadian. They are now at $104/hr.
I will get the 2002 replaced in the fall when my riding season is over. By that time I will have 120k kms on it.
I have a Gates replacement belt and the OEM tensioners already on hand. I may consider getting the coolant hoses replaced at the same time as they have not been done on my 2002.
Pop-Pop
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What cracks me up is that i called Honda International a year or so ago and no one could tell me how long a belt lasts time wise. All they could say was about the miles, and they seemed pretty soft on that! And, here we are with a bunch of guys riding bikes approx 25 yrs old and the belts appear to be doing fine. By golly miss molly! I’d call that pretty good quality!IIRC, the spec says change at 90,000 so I don't think it's much of a gamble to wait until 100,000. ;-) I've have had two changed at 100,000 and they both look as good as what replaced them. Got one that is about to be changed - it's sitting at 96,000 right now.
well when I ordered my light bulb for my 1100 it was $35.00 for the bulb and probably 1 hour at 140.00 for the labor for a total of 175.00 plus. If you can't work on your bike yourself you can't afford it. But I did the install myself.
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Its more economical if you can work on it yourself, but that doesn't mean you can't afford it if you don't. And any other bike you own would cost the same to have someone else
Andrew Shadow
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I'm not seeing the connection between this and my statement.
yep. I hear you some can afford it but it kills me to pay for work I can do and have the time to do. Like last weekend finally changed out my leaky valve cover gasket on my old Toyota. Probably saved a good 300 dollars doing it myself. When the time comes I have a member here that has changed his T belt and he said he would help me to. But again he did it for piece of mind.
See post # 56
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I think it was my Pinto 2.3 engine, okay, I had a ... anyway truly horrible over square engine that was known for broken pistons, anyway... anyway there were if I recall, plastic components to shield the belt from oil / debris / ect, mine had somehow become damaged through some other misadventure or neglect and oil got on the belt. The belt frayed toward one end, but never broke.
My 92 Honda that I sold at 328 or 385 [can't remember] went one interval with I think 140 k / 90k miles [?] between changing, every time I could detect zero stretch or cog break down.
In HVAC we change a lot of belts; upwards of 95 percent require no adjustment at all; matched sets seem to be a concern of the past; nearly every belt from any given manufacturer holds it's outer diameter irrespective of condition, only losing it's pitch diameter as material is destroyed.
It takes a monster motor [constant torque / fast synchronous speed ] and many across the line starts to actually break a belt now. There was a manufacturing point where they became quite remarkable.
My 92 Honda that I sold at 328 or 385 [can't remember] went one interval with I think 140 k / 90k miles [?] between changing, every time I could detect zero stretch or cog break down.
In HVAC we change a lot of belts; upwards of 95 percent require no adjustment at all; matched sets seem to be a concern of the past; nearly every belt from any given manufacturer holds it's outer diameter irrespective of condition, only losing it's pitch diameter as material is destroyed.
It takes a monster motor [constant torque / fast synchronous speed ] and many across the line starts to actually break a belt now. There was a manufacturing point where they became quite remarkable.
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edge, not end