Has anyone used RaceTech Cartridge Emulators in ST1100 front forks?

uprubicon14

I just did a Lee Parks course last weekend. He delves pretty deeply into suspension set-up, and as a result I am considering upgrading my ST1100. RaceTech has a cartridge emulator an stiffer springs that would upgrade the forks. Has anyone gone that route? If so, was it worth the $500. I am frankly pretty happy with my stock suspension. I did increase my spring preload on the rear shock and played with the damping screw, and that did improve the feel slightly.
 
I went with stiffer springs and heavier weight oil... A huge improvement.
I went with HyperPro because (my current 1st choice) Sonicsprings.com wasn't in business.

~$100 leave *way* more money laying around for gas and tires than $500!!!
 
uprubicon14 said:
I just did a Lee Parks course last weekend. He delves pretty deeply into suspension set-up, and as a result I am considering upgrading my ST1100. RaceTech has a cartridge emulator an stiffer springs that would upgrade the forks. Has anyone gone that route? If so, was it worth the $500.
Click to expand...

I know of one guy who has, and he swears by it. He's also an order of magnitude above the average rider. For most of us "average" riders. Mark's right, Get your sag set properly with some aftermarket springs and play with oil viscosity to vary ride quality.
 
I agree...nobody has accused me of being an order of magnitude above the average rider. In fact, after adjusting the preload 2 clicks to the highest setting on the rear shock, and adjusting the damping accordingly, I frankly couldn't tell much difference.
I did learn talking to RaceTech that these bikes have a cartridge fork on one side and a standard fork on the other leg. Were you able to change the fork springs without using a spring compressor tool ($150) on the cartridge side? Also, what wt. fork oil did you use?
 
Changing the fork springs is easy, no special tools needed. Depending on model (ABS or not, and year) oil levels and spacer lengths will be different in each leg. I wonder if you could put a Race Tech gold valve in the cartridge side and a cartridge emulator on the other?
 
The guy I talked to at RaceTech said it was $250 for the cartridge emulator and you put them in both sides....seems a little odd to put one in the cartridge side. I have the non-abs 1991 fork on my bike.
 
I did it in 2000 only down side,,,,,,,u will realize how poor the rear shock is and have to replace it. Kieth ps add a fork brace also
 
I upgraded the front end of my Yamaha FJ1200 with stiffer springs and cartridge emulators from Racetech. I was thrilled with the upgrade. The installation of the emulators does require you to drill out the stock orifices on your existing suspension which is a permanent mod. I have not felt the need to upgrade the front end of the ST1100 in the same manner.....probably due to the type of riding that I use the ST for. However, if/when the time comes for an upgrade, I would not hesitate to use the emulators again.
 
Even though I install Racetech and Traxxion I got into it because of the research and decision to first put them on my bikes. What most don't understand is what is going on in the front. There are 2 forces at play. Damping, the upward force from a low speed or high speed bump. Low speed being the natural rise and lowering of the road surface and high speed being you run over an object like a 2x4. Then there is rebound, the ability to push the wheel downward and keep constant contact with the road. Just replacing the springs with something stiffer will improve some but is only half the solution. Going to a heavier wt. oil is more of a mask of a issue rather than a fix.

Springs hold the bike up and provide downward pressure. Too stiff and you negate the damping and too soft you negate rebound. What the valving does is to control the fluid movement to allow the smoother movement and adjustability. Stock suspensions rely more on the rigidness of the spring and less on fluid. By the time you put weight on the front you have used up more than 50% of your travel just to hold the bike up. Going to a stiffer spring will hold the bike up but also push the tire down harder causing more of a movement of the front end and a stiffer ride. Valving will allow the fluid to absorb and control the movement so there is less upward movement of the entire front end.

Where this is most noticeable is when the bike is leaned in a corner and you go over a bump or dip in the road. Without valving and proper spring or week spring you will notice the bike wants to stand up and you need to correct it by adding more pressure to hold it or correct it. Some times the only real suspension is the give your tire has. What you will notice immediately is that once you put the bike in the corner it stays in the corner regardless of the bump. Someone mentioned that we drill. Yes, between drilling and setting the valving we can dial in the front so there is less force, input needed and the tire remains on the road without bouncing.

Again you don't want too much pressure downward because that will not allow movement and you don't want too little because that create a pogo. After 30k the stock suspension is toast. Will replacing just the springs improve the performance? Yes but it is only half the solution. To me it's like washing half your body. Are you cleaner? Yup but ya probably only stink half as bad not smell half as good. As some have heard me say, The best you have ridden is the best you know. Until you know how good it can be you don't know how bad it is.
 
I have the Traxxion forks on my ST1100. Damping and preload are now adjustable. Control is excellent, but you must learn how to set it up.
 
Hi
My 1991 ST1100 has the Race Tech installed and it is well worth the money.
Larry Griffith did my front and rear and the difference is amazzzzzing.
Dave
 
I have a 2002 with Racetech springs and gold valve emulators, rear is a Works Pro Race shock setup by a Pro Honda suspension mechanic. I can honestly tell you it is worth the 1800 plus spent. I live in the N.Ga, mountains and it is AWESOME!I have rode a couple of stock rides(waterbed 1100) and a few Progressive suspension bikes.(pogo sticks) My advice ,Do a straight weight spring for your size and weight , gold valve emulators, possible progressive rear shock or for more performance oriented rider a Penske or a Works Pro race shock. Its all up to you and what your riding style is that dictates whats best suited toyou (and budget) and what you want to do with it. Im a old moto-xer ,and I put it thru the paces,however I also ride sometimes 200 plus miles to work along with very frequent LD riding trips with alot of gear.It works for me , but that doesnt mean itll work for you. Hope that helps! Ethan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom