Have you ever rebuilt the clutch master cylinder (replaced pistons, seals) in situ (without removing entire assemblies)?

[Sterno]

It "looks" like it might be possible (and therefore go very quickly) but I figure if anybody really knows, its yous guys... so Thank you for any input.

Cheers,
-Sterno

p.s i just got a set of the right-angled circlip pliers, dying to get in there with em..

 

[Team2010]

I think may help : (1) Article [13] - ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement | ST1300 Articles | Page 11 | ST-Owners.com

 

[rwthomas1]

What would be the advantage? Speed? I'd think that it would be more difficult to fiddle with the bits and it would make a mess.

RT

 

[sirbike]

Sometimes there is a shortcut and the long slow easy way that turns out to often use the same or less time.
Much easier to handle on the bench.
Easier to clean with cleaning fluid.
A bench vise is helpful to hold it but not necessary.

 

[Sterno]

Yea, just looking at the risk analysis between speed of (if possible) getting it done off vs. on the bench. Been working a lot, and would rather ride than wrench on the time off i do have (nothing wrong with wrenching). Thank you kind Sirs for your inputs. No arguments from me on the importance of "due process" and "slower is faster"... just curious if MAYBE out on the trail or something someone ever tried it! Cuz it doesn't "look" (to the immature eye!) that bad... but i can just imagine the mess being asked for...!

oH, I know a rider who has an old m6 threaded hex and a bit of the rod arm from an old snapped off motorcycle rear-view mirror.. this guy uses that as the fixturing pin for the vise (threads into the MstrCyl where the banjo bolt goes, and clamps the hex into the vise)! I love this stuff! Thanks again. And I will read the archives as mentioned later when i get a chance. CHEERS!

 

[Sterno]

and i didn't even think about cleaning... totally makes sense . Thanks again

 

[aniwack]

Can you replace the seals without removing the unit?

No.

Can you replace the seals inside the CSS without dropping the engine? Yes.

 

[peterz]

After having done this job, just replace the unit with a new one. You will sleep better.
PZ

 

[Team2010]

After having done this job, just replace the unit with a new one. You will sleep better.
PZ

+1

 

[Sterno]

All, thanks for the inputs. I did rebuild the clutch master cylinder OFF THE BIKE 2 weeks ago, and the toughest part was installing those pesky rubber seals! Those really can put up a fight. So if it wasn't for those then yes, maybe a desperate surgeon could while still on the handlebars, but those seals,,, sheesh. Someone could make a youtube on just handling those. And three hands would have been nice for installing the snap ring. A friend taught me a trick in so far as gently pumping out the introduced air while the cover is still off the reservoir... some patience there and care (and tapping) with the banjo fitting end and i did not have any reason to purge any squishyness via the bleed fitting down below. I have been advised, however, that this can/may change when transitioning to high altitude (as in a non-problematic micro bubble can become a problem at high altitude)... Thanks again, ALL! CHEERS!

p.s. the rebuild kit should also come with that brass barrel that fits in the handgrip (that pushes the piston), mine looked quite sad at 80k miles. Still works fine thanks to the spring loaded gizmo they build into the handle to take up wear (thank you Honda Engineers). I will replace this soon, I promise!

 

[jfheath]

Note that the brass barrel has a hole in the side. The plunger for the clutch lever MUST fit inside that hole. It is difficult to see once it is back inside the lever. Mark the top with a felt pen, to help with alignment. Its a bit worn ! It will work until you can get a new one , but check the depth of the hole, make sure that the plunger isn't about to break through from the inside. The sudden release of the clutch if that happens at a road junction could be disastrous.

I'm glad you posted that pic - some of the replies above seem to be talking about the Slave cylinder. You are talking about the master cylinder on the clutch lever on the left handlebar, yes ?

The seals ? Use a smear of brake fluid as a lubricant. The seal goes in flared end first and must not invert. Easy when you get the knack withe carefully positioned fingers to ease the flared edges inside the lip, and offered at a slight angle so that the underside is in place, and you can work round easing in the rest of the lip from there.

Jobs like that, much easier off the bike. Shortcuts never work out quicker for me.

 

[Sterno]

JH ... yes your point about the potential clutch handle failure mode really caught my attention. I would not be surprised if you worked at Airbus. Another really great reason to keep the right foot on the brake when applying the clutch lever at a "junction" (we call 'em intersections, but who's counting!) (and a great reminder to order that part!)

Blathering on here, I did use the brake fluid pre-lube as you suggested, but I was amazed just how much that seal had to stretch in order to fit over the piston, and it wasn't cooperating. Still one of my favorite maintenance jobs so far though, due to the limited scope and relative simplicity and single afternoon duration. And yes, DO IT OFF THE BIKE! My original inquiry was a bit of an ice-breaker mixed with some newby ignorance and an abundance of enthusiasm to get her back on the road. About the clutch slave cylinder (and predictive maintenance , as we are at 80k miles)... I can only guess that will be next... first it was the clutch pipe, then the master, so I suppose it is only a matter of time. When does the clutch need doing?

Cheers.

 

[Sterno]

addendum to address worn BUSH p/n 22885-MBO-006 (brass bushing in clutch lever that pushes the piston into clutch PRIMARY (was Master but that is no longer preferred terminology) cylinder (JFH this is for you..)

With 6 inch calipers i did my best to measure the depth of the hole and the OD where the back of the hole could wear through on both my old and new bushing (i just replaced it). Yes, it does wear thin after 80k miles and eventually it could break through. In round numbers and with limited metrology, the thickest part of the bottom of the hole on the new bushing was 0.067". The worn old bushing measured the same way gave me a max wall of 0.020". So more than 1/2 of the stock "wall thickness" in that area had worn away.

Fascinating reading, I'm sure! Sleep well, my brothers.

 

[Fred Primmer]

Can you replace the brass bushing by removing the clutch handle? Or, do you have to remove the primary clutch cylinder from the left handle bar? My bushing has some play in it.

 

[ST11Nut]

Only the clutch handle needs to be removed to replace the bushing.

 

[Fred Primmer]

Thanks! I'll stop by my Honda dealer tomorrow to get a bushing and do this on the next rainy day!