hazard switch

Mine came with it built in...

But its a pretty simple circuit..




Battery =B, L=Left R= Right F1= Flasher can hot F2 = Flasher can load.


B---------F1 F2-----------/ ------------L
|
|-/ ------------R

its not pretty, but should work. Honda has a suitable switch, I will have to look up the part no.
 
Hi alphafang
found the item and saved till I am back from holiday next week.
 
Not a bad kit, but I wouldnt use the scotchlocks, they tend to damage the wires.
 
The US models don't come with it but as was said, it's an easy connection - just make sure you keep the left circuit and the right circuit separated so you your turn indicators don't both fire during normal use. There are also Honda Part numbers which include the hazard switch and the bezel for flashers. I used two simple relays (some used diodes) that fire from the same power source and triggered by the same switch. Since I have the left hand police switch, I used switch 5. Here's some instructions from another STer -

ST1100 4-Way Flasher Installation Instructions

The following instructions are meant to help aid the installation of a 4-Way Flasher setup on the Honda ST1100, 1990-2002. Information contained within this document is a collection of experience of my own installation and the installation of other ST1100 owners around the world. Please note, there are many ways to install a 4-Way Flasher setup, and this is just one of those. This design will allow the flashers to work without the switch being in the “ON” position, and requires that you use the Honda OEM waterproof pushbutton switch. The following is a list of part that I purchased for my installation.

Parts:
1) 35160-MZ9-900, the pushbutton for the flashers (button with red triangle)
2) 35180-MZ9-900, the pushbutton for the H/L Hazard button (headlight hazard)
3) 64227-MY3-780ZA, the bezel that surrounds the two buttons.
*This is the same bezel that is used for the TCS and ABS buttons on the ST1100A. (Note that the above three items were purchased from overseas. I have not found a US distributor for these as of yet.)
4) 2 PIN Flasher module, purchased at local auto parts store
5) 16 Gauge wire, approximately 8 feet, 3ft. for left side, 5ft. for right.
6) Inline fuse, 10 Amp
7) Wire splice units

1 2
3 4
5 6
Remove the Seat 1), the left saddle bag 2), the left side cover 3), and the left maintenance cover 4). You will also have to remove the rear view mirror covers on both sides of the bike 5). (They will pop off if you push them towards the front of the bike.)

You will want to locate a spot under the left fairing pocket to mount the switch setup. As you can see in picture 6), I mounted mine directly under the pocket as to not interfere with the fairing brackets and equipment located lower on that side of the bike. After the left maintenance cover is off, you can look and feel under the cover to see the best location to cut the hole. I used a Dremel to cut the hole after marking it clearly. You may want to use masking tape and a marker to get the best results. It took some time to line up and center the bracket. Remember the golden rule, measure twice, cut once.

7
The wires for the Turn Signals/Marker Lights, come out of the main fairing and go directly into the rear view mirror covers 7). Locate the Orange/Gray (OG) wire on the left side and the Light Blue/Grey (LB) wire on the right side of the bike. You will tap into these wires which will control the front and rear lights for the bike. (You will not have to tap into wires at the front and rear of the bike, just the front.)
 
Hi Uncle Phil
thanks for the info all noted down, nice pictures on your site .
 
Last October I wired 4 way flashers on my 91 ST1100. I ran an inline fuse (10amp) from the battery to a DOT 552 flasher ($3.99 O'Rileys) to a DPST (double pole, single throw) switch (Radio Shack $3.99). A double pole switch is needed to isolate the turn signals and keep them operable. From the DPST switch a wire each to each rear blinker light ( orange and blue wires). Presto 4 way flashers for around $10-$12, I had the wire and connectors. 14awg from fuse to switch, 18 awg to turn signals. I placed the switch on the right knee guard. The switch is a small rocker the same color as the ST's knee guard. Looks factory, but is not waterproof. The switch has been through several frog strangler rains and has not failed.
Ralph Sims
 

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Hello Adrian,

I think you'll find this article w/pictures in the ST1100 Archive Of Wisdom (AOW) of interest:

Edit (Dec ‘19) - updated link:
EURO Style 4-way and PIAA Switch Instructions
http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=1859

edit: the author isn't shown but the article and install is by my friend Tom Melnik, STOC 346.

Regards, John
 
Last edited:
Hi guys
thanks for all the feed back, I knew I would get plenty of very helpful info to my question .:)

thanks all.
 
Uncle Phil said:
The US models don't come with it but as was said, it's an easy connection - just make sure you keep the left circuit and the right circuit separated so you your turn indicators don't both fire during normal use. There are also Honda Part numbers which include the hazard switch and the bezel for flashers. I used two simple relays (some used diodes) that fire from the same power source and triggered by the same switch. Since I have the left hand police switch, I used switch 5. Here's some instructions from another STer -

ST1100 4-Way Flasher Installation Instructions

The following instructions are meant to help aid the installation of a 4-Way Flasher setup on the Honda ST1100, 1990-2002. Information contained within this document is a collection of experience of my own installation and the installation of other ST1100 owners around the world. Please note, there are many ways to install a 4-Way Flasher setup, and this is just one of those. This design will allow the flashers to work without the switch being in the “ON” position, and requires that you use the Honda OEM waterproof pushbutton switch. The following is a list of part that I purchased for my installation.

Parts:
1) 35160-MZ9-900, the pushbutton for the flashers (button with red triangle)
2) 35180-MZ9-900, the pushbutton for the H/L Hazard button (headlight hazard)
3) 64227-MY3-780ZA, the bezel that surrounds the two buttons.
*This is the same bezel that is used for the TCS and ABS buttons on the ST1100A. (Note that the above three items were purchased from overseas. I have not found a US distributor for these as of yet.)
4) 2 PIN Flasher module, purchased at local auto parts store
5) 16 Gauge wire, approximately 8 feet, 3ft. for left side, 5ft. for right.
6) Inline fuse, 10 Amp
7) Wire splice units

1 2
3 4
5 6
Remove the Seat 1), the left saddle bag 2), the left side cover 3), and the left maintenance cover 4). You will also have to remove the rear view mirror covers on both sides of the bike 5). (They will pop off if you push them towards the front of the bike.)

You will want to locate a spot under the left fairing pocket to mount the switch setup. As you can see in picture 6), I mounted mine directly under the pocket as to not interfere with the fairing brackets and equipment located lower on that side of the bike. After the left maintenance cover is off, you can look and feel under the cover to see the best location to cut the hole. I used a Dremel to cut the hole after marking it clearly. You may want to use masking tape and a marker to get the best results. It took some time to line up and center the bracket. Remember the golden rule, measure twice, cut once.

7
The wires for the Turn Signals/Marker Lights, come out of the main fairing and go directly into the rear view mirror covers 7). Locate the Orange/Gray (OG) wire on the left side and the Light Blue/Grey (LB) wire on the right side of the bike. You will tap into these wires which will control the front and rear lights for the bike. (You will not have to tap into wires at the front and rear of the bike, just the front.)
Click to expand...
I know this post is over 9 years old, however, Uncle Phil, do you recall if there were more steps (after step 7) to the installation of the Honda hazard switch? I have the Honda hazzard switch and want to install it on my new bike. I have installed the 4 ways on my 97 and have used a generic switch and diodes, but this method looks simpler. Thanks
 
kiltman said:
I know this post is over 9 years old, however, Uncle Phil, do you recall if there were more steps (after step 7) to the installation of the Honda hazard switch? I have the Honda hazzard switch and want to install it on my new bike. I have installed the 4 ways on my 97 and have used a generic switch and diodes, but this method looks simpler. Thanks
Click to expand...
I don't know since I use the police switch and diodes. If the circuit 'separation' is built into the Honda hazard switch, then that should be about it.
 
Uncle Phil said:
I don't know since I use the police switch and diodes. If the circuit 'separation' is built into the Honda hazard switch, then that should be about it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your assistance, I have done a search for that post but have come empty handed.
I will test the switch out with a meter and see how the circuit is separated.
TAke care, heal well
 
I have the hazard switch mounted on my '02, but I ran it to a Kriss 4-way flasher module (using the existing socket) instead. It works fine, but I really don't like having to remove my hand from the handlebar to turn it on. Other than that, it has worked well for me. I used the Kriss module because you can set it to turn off automatically after 30 minutes, to save your battery.
 
John OoSTerhuis said:
I updated the AOW link in post 12 above.

John
Click to expand...
Thanks John, I have looked at that link a few times in the past, I now must confess, I now understand how he hooked up the switch.
It was from this link I was able to get the part numbers for the switches. I tried this route 4 years ago, the switches are not available in Canada, and at the time the cost was prohibiting to import. I then chose the other method by using a single pole switch and diodes to facilitate the 4 ways. Had I actually understood the workings of the OEM switch, it would in the end have been cheaper, and easier to do than the option I took.
This link is also helpful to me as I’m transferring the PIAA lights from the 97 to the 2002 model. I have acquired the driving light switch and using it in tandem with the blue wire from the high beam to trigger the relay to turn on the PIAAs. I’m tossing the controller module that I used on the 97. I have concluded, in the end I only use the driving lights with my high beams anyway. Using the KISS principle for wiring my farkles. (Keep It Simple Stupid)
AOW is my first go to place to deal with. “How do I do this”
 
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