hazard switch

Happy to report that I've been successful with installing both the hazard switch and the light switch. Both function as intended.
 

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Uncle Phil said:
So Honda Switch deals with the 'circuit separation' properly?
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Yes it does! no diodes required. Easy to wire in. I probably could have tapped into the bikes own flasher unit instead of installing a separate one.
There are three wires out of the switch and they are colour coded. orange for left side, blue for the right side and a beige one to go to the flasher unit. I spliced into the front turn signals as I had all the plastic off the bike, which made everything easier. The instructions you posted earlier were a big help along with the AOW link that John had posted.
 
I STill have one of the Honda flasher switches pinned to my big garage cork bulletin board. One of these decades I’ll have to get around to the install. :rolleyes:

John
 
Not being familiar with the 1100 (despite the many threads I've read) did your hazard and driving light switches replace other switches? Heated grips or something? It's a clean install regardless.
 
ST Gui said:
Not being familiar with the 1100 (despite the many threads I've read) did your hazard and driving light switches replace other switches? Heated grips or something? It's a clean install regardless.
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Thank you. This is the location for the police models. As Uncil Phil mentioned, I had to cut a hole, the bezel and switches are available through partzilla. I had this pocket fairing on my 97, I had adapted switches from Asia. For this bike (2002). I wanted it to look more Honda. ;)
 
I just finished installing a generic Amazon hazard switch on my 1992 ST1100. I used an "adjustable flash" box that allows me to adjust the rate of flashing. I wanted the hazard flashers to work without the ignition key (hot wired). I ran a dedicated fused hot wire from the battery to the headlight area, and mounted the adjustable-rate flasher box behind the headlight. The flasher box needs one hot wire, one ground wire, and one "load" wire which will feed the bulbs. The box stays hot all the time, and only starts clicking when it senses a load. I ran the load wire from the flasher to the hazard switch, and the other two wires of the hazard switch to the left front bulb (orange on the ST1100) and right front bulb (Light blue on the ST1100). It works great - but, I found that if I depress the new hazard switch while I have the turn signal switch turned on (left or right), then it will also power up the headlight and fuel pump! Something is backfeeding. So I will make myself a note - only use the hazard switch with turn signal switch OFF.
Video of the lights flashing here - https://youtube.com/shorts/dOPiK6EvijM?feature=share

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Yes that's a very "sanitary" or tidy installation. I've only used the 1300's hazards once and that was while riding near a dramatic collision that occurred seconds earlier. Do the 1100's or 1300's hazards work with the key set to ACC? Maybe 12V could be picked up there without back feeding anything else. Or maybe some diodes are in order.
 
In the USA, the 'hazards' work depending on how you wire them since our models did not come with hazards but the European models did.
I have mine wired with a fused connection directly to the battery, diodes to stop the flow, another flasher and #5 on the police switch to fire them.
Kiltman's installation used the European switch and bezel.
 
Cyclehead said:
I wanted the hazard flashers to work without the ignition key (hot wired).
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Neat installation indeed, but...

... 4 bulbs á 21W on a 5 Ah battery won't give much running time ...
You'd need some kind of battery monitor, otherwise you'll end up stranded with a drained battery soon...

BTW with the OEM flasher relay no extra items needed, it's rated [ 2(4)x 21W ]
 
If he changed to LED bulbs (and correct flasher relay), that would reduce the drain, thinking about adding that to mine BTW.
 
Uncle Phil said:
In the USA, the 'hazards' work depending on how you wire them since our models did not come with hazards but the European models did.
I have mine wired with a fused connection directly to the battery, diodes to stop the flow, another flasher and #5 on the police switch to fire them.
Kiltman's installation used the European switch and bezel.
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Thanks Unk. This clears up a few questions I was about to ask. I've only used it twice (now that I think of it) but the hazard switch is a welcome bit on the 1300. I wish we'd got the FTP switch as well. Using the starter button is an inelegant alternative.
 
ST Gui said:
I wish we'd got the FTP switch as well. Using the starter button is an inelegant alternative.
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Rather get the ST1100 (or the non-ABS ST1300) LH switch-pod where you can operate that PASS conveniently with your index finger...
That "new" version where one is supposed to dip on the HIGH/LOW button is anatomically impossible to reach while operating clutch (and horn) at the same time...
 
I noticed that several of you hot wire the hazards so that they function without the need for the ignition key. I understand the logic behind that, but I would be concerned that some nit-wit would turn them on, even it was just a kid playing around pushing buttons in a parking lot, and leave them on killing the battery. I think that I would put another switch in-line somewhere out of sight to disable the power source to them if I felt the need to do so.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
I think that I would put another switch in-line somewhere out of sight to disable the power source to them if I felt the need to do so.
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IIRC did the UK police bikes utilize a second ignition lock/key on the LHS infill enabling to remove the original ignition key while engine and flashers kept going...
 
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